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01-02-2015, 10:30 AM
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#21
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Member
Name: Allan
Trailer: Lil Snoozy
Oregon
Posts: 61
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Yes, that's it.
The instahot in our Hunter also wanted to be removed and turned upside down to drain.
Actually after reading some responses I'm glad to know there are heaters available with drains.....
Although the new house will have a three car garage and doors high enough for Snoozy to fit in..... ( next winter either Snoozy lives in the garage or I go water heater shopping.)
__________________
Allan
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01-02-2015, 11:48 AM
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#22
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Senior Member
Trailer: 92 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 11,756
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Quote:
Originally Posted by starfighter
Yes, that's it.
The instahot in our Hunter also wanted to be removed and turned upside down to drain.
Actually after reading some responses I'm glad to know there are heaters available with drains.....
Although the new house will have a three car garage and doors high enough for Snoozy to fit in..... ( next winter either Snoozy lives in the garage or I go water heater shopping.)
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Allan as you can see from the responses its far more common for an RV heater to have a drain than not to. It is also not very common to find an electric only water heater in an RV either. The two most commonly found brands of hot water heaters found in RV's are Atwood and Suburban.
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01-02-2015, 03:21 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Name: Mike
Trailer: 93 Burro 17 ft
Oklahoma
Posts: 6,026
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Wow. A mfr that installs an RV water heater which must be removed for draining....... I'm sure glad I don't have one of those.
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01-02-2015, 03:41 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Trailer: U-Haul VT16
Posts: 982
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Hookup your air compressor to your hose inlet.
Make sure you have a regulator.
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01-02-2015, 04:22 PM
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#25
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Member
Name: Allan
Trailer: Lil Snoozy
Oregon
Posts: 61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mszabo
Hookup your air compressor to your hose inlet.
Make sure you have a regulator.
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Yes, as I said, I do blow out all water lines (@ 30 psi) BUT..................
something about the internal piping of the water heater leaves 3 or so gallons in the tank ......
__________________
Allan
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01-02-2015, 04:37 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 1,704
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Accurite is the brand I use Wendy. And that's where I've bought most of mine.
Quote:
Originally Posted by CampyTime
Thank you Carol and Darryl. I see the accurite brand is available at my local walmart do I'll pick that up and give a try. Happy new year all!
Sent from my iPhone using Fiberglass RV
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01-02-2015, 04:44 PM
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#27
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 1,704
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One of two things would have already happened with me and that water heater--- either I would have Lil Snoozy to take it back and reimburse me for it OR I'd be putting me a drain valve in the line!! (That is IF you can even get to it to do that.) Good luck my friend and keep us posted. Wonder what other Lil Snooziers think or do about it? I'll have to give my Scamp a thumbs up on the water heater brand, placement and ease of use! (Atwood)
Quote:
Originally Posted by starfighter
Yes, as I said, I do blow out all water lines (@ 30 psi) BUT..................
something about the internal piping of the water heater leaves 3 or so gallons in the tank ......
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01-02-2015, 04:50 PM
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#28
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2008 Oliver Legacy Elite
Posts: 904
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We've used the above Accurite, or some other version from Walmart, for years. You'll need good batteries, and not too much distance from the house, to get a reading within a few degrees.
We use one on the patio to read from inside the house, another one in the trailer nose cone, another one in the trailer refrigerator. They work ok till the batteries get low.
Sherry
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01-09-2015, 02:11 PM
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#29
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Senior Member
Name: Wendy Lee
Trailer: Scamp 13' Standard
New York
Posts: 1,071
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Ok thank you Sherry for the heads up on the batteries. I did go out and buy the aAccurite and put it with all my camping stuff for hopeful spring.
Sent from my iPhone using Fiberglass RV
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01-09-2015, 02:32 PM
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#30
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Senior Member
Trailer: 92 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 11,756
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I have found that its best to change out the batteries each spring on both the receiving and sending units. Otherwise you might start seeing temperatures that make you worry your fridge is malfunctioning and waste a lot of time trouble shooting it! Been there done that! LOL
Also make sure that you don't put stuff on top of the sending unit you have in the fridge as that will mess the readings up greatly as well. Therefore the smaller the sending unit you have the better - so as to not waste fridge space.
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01-09-2015, 02:42 PM
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#31
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 1,704
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I use Energizers, Duracell or equal batteries in my temp devices. I simply turn them around in their places (batt. compartment) when not in use. The way they're designed, they cannot make contact and the batteries last for YEARs this way. If you're monitoring 24/7, this wont work. I only monitor my fridge, water heater etc when I'm Scamping and it works out. I do the same for my digital thermostat and smoke/CO alarm-- remove them when I'm not camping. In 5 yrs, I've never had to replace any of my batteries.
It simply depends on the use of our equipment-- what works for one wont work for another....
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01-11-2015, 09:32 AM
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#32
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Senior Member
Name: Wendy Lee
Trailer: Scamp 13' Standard
New York
Posts: 1,071
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Makes sense. I'll try that this summer with the batts. I always take batts out of anything that uses them at end of season for fear of corrosion and leakage. But during season, this is smart.
Sent from my iPhone using Fiberglass RV
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