Monitor inside trailer temp. - Fiberglass RV


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 12-31-2014, 10:20 AM   #1
Member
 
starfighter's Avatar
 
Name: Allan
Trailer: Lil Snoozy
Oregon
Posts: 61
Monitor inside trailer temp.

We did have some concerns about our snoozy water freezing over the winter.
We Put a small heater on "low" after blowing out water lines.........
(and adding antifreeze to selected areas)
Karen came up with the idea of putting the outdoor sending unit of an indoor/outdoor thermometer in the trailer and the indoor unit in the garage.
We could then monitor the temp. inside the trailer without unlocking and going in.
we have since moved the indoor unit (receiver) into a dining room window and can easily monitor temp. inside the trailer from inside the house.
really help us make minor adjustments to the heater and we now maintain 41 degrees inside.
__________________

__________________
Allan
starfighter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-31-2014, 10:29 AM   #2
Senior Member
 
Carol H's Avatar
 
Name: Carol
Trailer: 22' Airstream Formerly 16' Scamp
British Columbia
Posts: 11,731
Registry
Many of use the same approach to monitor the fridge temps in the summer. I have a small receiver mounted inside the trailer and small sending unit inside the fridge. It works great as I can see at a glance what the fridge temp is compared to the inside temp of the trailer without opening the fridge.

BTW If you blow out the line and emptied out the tanks why the concern with freezing? Did you not run a little bit of RV anti freeze through the pumps? Its cheaper than running a heater in the trailer all winter.
__________________

Carol H is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-31-2014, 11:00 AM   #3
Member
 
starfighter's Avatar
 
Name: Allan
Trailer: Lil Snoozy
Oregon
Posts: 61
Although I do blow out the lines, the water heater retains several gallons of water that do not drain under pressure, and the manual calls for un-plumbing the heater and turning it upside down and............
This is just a whole lot easier.
__________________
Allan
starfighter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-31-2014, 11:06 AM   #4
Senior Member
 
Carol H's Avatar
 
Name: Carol
Trailer: 22' Airstream Formerly 16' Scamp
British Columbia
Posts: 11,731
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by starfighter View Post
Although I do blow out the lines, the water heater retains several gallons of water that do not drain under pressure, and the manual calls for un-plumbing the heater and turning it upside down and............
This is just a whole lot easier.
Hummm.... strange wheat heater does Snooze use? Most of the heaters I have seen it would be impossible to remove and turn upside down.

Although most of the typical RV water heaters due to design do not drain completely (always a little bit of water left in them) simple draining them and then pumping in a bit of anti freeze seems to do the trick. I also leave the drain plug off of mine in winter just to be safe.
Carol H is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-31-2014, 11:44 AM   #5
Senior Member
 
Bob Miller's Avatar
 
Name: Bob
Trailer: 1973 Hunter Compact II
California
Posts: 7,912
I use a "Thermo-Cube" it's a small device, plugged into an outlet in my trailer, that switches ON at 35 degrees/OFF at 45 degrees. With a small electric heater plugged into that, the trailer automatically gets warmed up when it's cold outside. Several different on/off temps are available.


Available on Amazon. <$15, here's a link:
Amazon.com : Farm Innovators TC-3 Cold Weather Thermo Cube Thermostatically Controlled Outlet - On at 35-Degrees/Off at 45-Degrees : Electrical Multi Outlets : Patio, Lawn & Garden
__________________
Bob Miller is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-31-2014, 12:45 PM   #6
Senior Member
 
Name: bob
Trailer: 1984 u-haul ct13; 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
Posts: 4,333
My Casita manual says to remove the anode rod in the water heater to drain it. Simple enough to do. And if I wanted I could easily pour in some antifreeze through that hole using a funnel and hose. I've only seen one Snoozy so have no idea where the water heater is, but on our Casita it is in an outside compartment that a inside heater would have no affect on. Another idea on heating; for a few years we lived in a mobile home that had a drilled well and a pump house over the well containing the pump and pressure tank. I insulated the building and heated it with two 100 watt light bulbs. It had a window so I could look out to see the bulbs were still on.
__________________
mary and bob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-31-2014, 02:54 PM   #7
Senior Member
 
Donna D.'s Avatar
 
Name: Donna D
Trailer: Escape 5.0 TA, 2014
Oregon
Posts: 24,434
Quote:
Originally Posted by mary and bob View Post
Another idea on heating; for a few years we lived in a mobile home that had a drilled well and a pump house over the well containing the pump and pressure tank. I insulated the building and heated it with two 100 watt light bulbs. It had a window so I could look out to see the bulbs were still on.
That was back in the day of incandescent bulbs. The new generation bulbs don't put out that kind of heat.
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
Donna D. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-31-2014, 03:10 PM   #8
Senior Member
 
Name: bob
Trailer: 1984 u-haul ct13; 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
Posts: 4,333
Quote:
Originally Posted by Donna D. View Post
That was back in the day of incandescent bulbs. The new generation bulbs don't put out that kind of heat.
LOL, you got me there Donna. I'm still living in the past, and have enough incandescent bulbs on hand to last me another 10 years at least !
__________________
mary and bob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-31-2014, 03:18 PM   #9
Senior Member
 
Mike Magee's Avatar
 
Name: Michael
Trailer: Li'l Hauley
Oklahoma
Posts: 5,145
Surely the water heater has an anode rod, unless it's a strange kind we aren't familiar with. Just open a faucet to make sure the water pressure is released in the line. Then unscrew the anode rod... voila, all but a small amount of water will run out. The remaining small amount can't harm anything because it has plenty of expansion room. I usually would reinstall the anode after draining, so as not to forget. I never want to put pink antifreeze in the water heater, because it's a chore to wash it out come spring... and if you don't rinse it out well enough, the showers and dish water smell sweet all summer long (been there, done that).
__________________
How much time do we have left? 2 Chr. 7:14
Mike Magee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-31-2014, 04:19 PM   #10
Senior Member
 
Glenn Baglo's Avatar
 
Name: Glenn ( second 'n' is silent )
Trailer: 2009 Escape 17B '08 RAV4 SPORT V6
British Columbia
Posts: 4,369
I thought the Snoozy was all-electric. Maybe it's an electric kettle?
__________________
What happens to the hole when the cheese is gone?
- Bertolt Brecht
Glenn Baglo is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 12-31-2014, 05:52 PM   #11
Senior Member
 
Carol H's Avatar
 
Name: Carol
Trailer: 22' Airstream Formerly 16' Scamp
British Columbia
Posts: 11,731
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Magee View Post
Surely the water heater has an anode rod, unless it's a strange kind we aren't familiar with. .
Or its an Atwood brand RV water heater. Atwoods generally don't use anode rods

A handy little gadget to have for cleaning anti freeze and other gunk that builds up on the bottom of hot water tanks is a Hot Water Tank Rinser. Works well. Cleaning out the gunk that builds up in the bottom of the tank will also help to extend the life of the tank.

On my Atwood Hot water tank there is always about an inch or so of water left in the tank after draining but never several gallons as the OP has indicated sits in theirs after draining. Which I find a bit odd. But mine is only 7 gallons or so to start with.
Carol H is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-31-2014, 09:49 PM   #12
Senior Member
 
CampyTime's Avatar
 
Name: Wendy Lee
Trailer: Scamp 13' Standard
New York
Posts: 1,061
Registry
Hi Carol,

I'm writing on this post in curiosity of the receiving/sending unit you use to monitor fridge temp as it relates to trailer temp? Would you share with me what that's about or how it works and perhaps a link to a product so I might see it for myself? Cheers!

Wendy


Sent from my iPhone using Fiberglass RV
__________________
CampyTime is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-31-2014, 09:59 PM   #13
Senior Member
 
Name: Darral
Trailer: Scamp Standard 13' 2010
Tennessee
Posts: 1,443
I wish someone would state what water heater the lil Snoozy is using as I will avoid it at all costs!! I dont know of ONE single RV water heater that you cant drain. Mine is the Atwood and removing it to fully empty??? That is NON-SENSE! Again, until we know what they use.....

I know my Atwood doesnt drain 100%. But what some people do not understand, it's "full" water under "pressure" that freezes and does damage....or in a small area like a drain trap or water pump. What little water is left in my Atwood has plenty room for expansion and will not hurt the water heater if it freezes.

For what it's worth though, there is a trick that Floyd Clark taught me and it works well. With the water heater "bypass" set, when I'm applying antifreeze, I will put my finger over the kitchen sink faucet, turn on the hot water, then turn on the cold water (That has had antifreeze running through it), and it will literally "push" the antifreeze down the hot water faucet and feed tube into the water heater. So mine does in fact have a little antifreeze in it and clears the lines of water.
__________________
Darral T. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-31-2014, 10:02 PM   #14
Senior Member
 
Name: Darral
Trailer: Scamp Standard 13' 2010
Tennessee
Posts: 1,443
Im not Carol but I've used these types to monitor my fridge temp from inside my house with good results. These seem to have very good range which is what you need to monitor from an RV to the house.

AcuRite Digital Indoor/Outdoor Thermometer - Walmart.com

Quote:
Originally Posted by CampyTime View Post
Hi Carol,

I'm writing on this post in curiosity of the receiving/sending unit you use to monitor fridge temp as it relates to trailer temp? Would you share with me what that's about or how it works and perhaps a link to a product so I might see it for myself? Cheers!

Wendy


Sent from my iPhone using Fiberglass RV
__________________

__________________
Darral T. is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
To Monitor or NOT to Monitor Darral T. Plumbing | Systems and Fixtures 15 10-13-2014 08:22 PM
Battery Monitor... solar controller monitor? LukeP Modifications, Alterations and Updates 5 05-14-2012 11:54 PM
Tranmission temp gauge sending unit info & ideas rudock1 Care and Feeding of Molded Fiberglass Trailers 4 09-28-2008 09:10 PM
Frig. Temp. Kevin K Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 5 08-22-2008 06:08 PM
Escape Trailer External Tank Monitor Thane Modifications, Alterations and Updates 5 07-18-2008 09:05 PM

» Upcoming Events
No events scheduled in
the next 465 days.
» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:52 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.