Monitor Panel wires on the other end - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-01-2015, 03:01 PM   #15
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This doesn't say it's for KIB monitors but it's what I expect you have in your tank. I'd want to know what size hole was in the tank before buying replacements. KIB customer service should be able to tell you. Assuming, of course, that the original owner/installer followed KIB's instructions.

Holding Tank Sensors -Screw In Probes

Revision:
In different site the MP5 was identified as a KIB probe.

As you surmised, do this with the tank empty.

Stick one in the hole. Tighten the inside nut (of the two shown) which swells the rubber part wedging/sealling the hole, then put the wire ring over the threaded stud and install and snug up the outer nut.

Perhaps you could prepare by closing your eyes and with your arms out to the side, practice touching the end of your nose with your pointer finger. Or, find a contortionist.
LOL indeed..... I can just see us doing this one.
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Old 05-01-2015, 03:06 PM   #16
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You monitor does not appear to be a Monitor I from KIB unless they used some strange probes years ago. You may be able to find a name on the back of the panel.

If you decide to remove the wires, be sure to record the order of the colored wires and donít switch them around. The colors can be different for each of the 3 holding tanks. Each color indicates only a specific level of liquid in the tank. For example, if the blue wire indicates Full, then if switched to the bottom hole it would indicate the tank is full even if itís only ľ full.

The white ground wire is directly below the positive probes. That is a strange place to place the probe. KIB says the ground is to be about 12 inches away from the other probes as there would be less chance of gunk buildup between the positive and negative probes and giving false readings. Even if your system is not from them, they can provide excellent installation instructions and illustrations regarding the placement of the probes to minimize problems.

Also, the 4 positive probes should be placed at a diagonal across the side of the tank so they are further away from each other and not directly above each other. That is so because a piece of T paper caught on and hanging from the top probe could connect with the probes below it and all giving a reading at the same time.

Once you have power to the panel, check the back of the panel to see if any power is going to the probes. You can also check the wiring by putting a voltage meter from the white ground to each of the colored wires at the tank. If the wires are good, they will probably read about 12 volts since there is no transformer at the panel.

The holes for the new style probes are 3/8Ē. If the probes that are in there now are larger than that, you cannot use the new style probes. You would either have to drop the tank and drill new holes and plug the old ones, or forget the system even exists.

Good luck,
Jim
OK thank you guys, sounds like I just might need to do the last part. lol
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Old 05-01-2015, 04:19 PM   #17
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I wanted to share this. Was looking on videos about the sensors and found this.



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Old 05-04-2015, 06:31 AM   #18
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Scamper Jim makes a good point about it (may) not be a KIB. I picked up the KIB reference in a post and ran with it. Your specific unit may or may not be a KIB.

I wouldn't have thought the method proposed in the YouTube video would have worked since I thought cranking on the stud would just balloon the rubber part so that it wouldn't pass through the hole. But, it did, at least in that video. I don't suppose it hurts to try it.
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Old 05-04-2015, 08:26 AM   #19
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Steve,

I had the same reaction when I saw that video. It's cute to see it work on new probes, but the rubber on the old ones has almost certainly formed around the inside of the hole and will take more than that to get them out.

I suspect that when using that trick on the old ones, the probe will pull through the hard, deteriorated rubber and then they will have to pick out the rubber pieces.

It may take an pair of adjustable Channel loc's with a good grip on the old rubber and rolling it over its top will be needed to extract them in one piece if it's at all possible.

The important issue is to find out the diameter of those probe holes. Start with the top one so that if it is larger, they can seal it with a rubber stopper in it and forget the whole thing. If they turn out to be 3/8", it will just be a simple matter of replacing them with new ones, and you will be good to go, if you know what I mean!
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Old 05-04-2015, 11:37 AM   #20
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In terms of a temporary fix, they make rubber expansion plugs. They come in different sizes and they usually have a sort of lever arm that you flip down to expand the rubber sleeve once in the hole. But you need to know the hole diameter to buy the right one. Kind of a not-so-quick fix.

A simple tapered rubber plug would probably suffice and are available in a wide range of diameters at your local Home Despot, et. al. Might need extra measures (perhaps the handyman's secret weapon, duct tape) if you wanted to travel with the plug and keep it in place.

In my brief research I also found a dedicated probe cleaner solution (black/grey water only) to put in the tank but I question if it's just a simple cleaner of some sort price-bumped to catch somebody not inclined to try other solutions.
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Old 05-04-2015, 12:25 PM   #21
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SO am I understanding this right? Each hole could be a different size? Unless this thing can be pulled out from underneath the camper the only way to get it out is to cut the top part of the shower stall all to pieces and pull it all out the door of the bathroom and then maybe and I say maybe the tank will fit out the door as well.
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Old 05-04-2015, 12:45 PM   #22
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The solution is to accept things as they are.
Probes are erratic and notorious for giving inaccurate readings.
And, that's the way it is.
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Old 05-04-2015, 02:24 PM   #23
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What I meant is that you have an older system and the company may have used probes that used a larger hole than the 3/8" that is pretty standard today. It is difficult to tell if they just used a larger washer on the outside of a standard size probe as a double seal, or if the probe is actually that larger around. You won't know for sure unless you can find a name of the company on the panel and find out what size probe they used back then. Even then, it assumes the monitor panel still works.

Unless the tank can be removed from the bottom of the camper, the best you can hope for is that when you fill the tank the system works and you get the readings for the respective levels of liquid.

If it doesn't work, then based on the steps you described to remove the tank through the bath makes it a LoonyToon mess and not worth even trying. Then it's time to fogit bout it
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Old 05-04-2015, 02:47 PM   #24
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Why wouldn't you just leave the probes, disconnect the wires and drill holes for the new probes, connect wires? If you must.
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Old 05-04-2015, 03:04 PM   #25
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You could leave the old probes and drill holes for new ones IF you have access to the side of the tank. From what was said, there is no way to get two hands near the probes, little alone get a drill in there to drill the new holes.

So the way I see it, the system either works as is or there is an easy way to drop the tank, or forget the whole deal.
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Old 05-05-2015, 06:48 AM   #26
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There are mods that are better in theory than they turn out in practice. I daresay most trailer owners donít have the level meters and get along just fine. Nothing stops you from camping if the system doesnít work as intended and the holes remain plugged. If youíre not comfortable with your repair skills, or arenít comfortable with working one-armed in an area you canít see perhaps youíre better off forgetting and not stressing out about it.

But you asked about fixing it and we tried to help. In some cases, part of the help is letting you know what might be involved. Doing nothing in this case is a legitimate alternative.
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Old 05-05-2015, 09:58 PM   #27
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What I meant is that you have an older system and the company may have used probes that used a larger hole than the 3/8" that is pretty standard today. It is difficult to tell if they just used a larger washer on the outside of a standard size probe as a double seal, or if the probe is actually that larger around. You won't know for sure unless you can find a name of the company on the panel and find out what size probe they used back then. Even then, it assumes the monitor panel still works.

Unless the tank can be removed from the bottom of the camper, the best you can hope for is that when you fill the tank the system works and you get the readings for the respective levels of liquid.

If it doesn't work, then based on the steps you described to remove the tank through the bath makes it a LoonyToon mess and not worth even trying. Then it's time to fogit bout it


Hubby is crawling around under it today and I asked him if he could see any tanks from the bottom of it and on the back side where the valves are, and he said yes. So maybe there IS a way to go from the bottom. We'll see.
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Old 05-05-2015, 10:00 PM   #28
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There are mods that are better in theory than they turn out in practice. I daresay most trailer owners donít have the level meters and get along just fine. Nothing stops you from camping if the system doesnít work as intended and the holes remain plugged. If youíre not comfortable with your repair skills, or arenít comfortable with working one-armed in an area you canít see perhaps youíre better off forgetting and not stressing out about it.

But you asked about fixing it and we tried to help. In some cases, part of the help is letting you know what might be involved. Doing nothing in this case is a legitimate alternative.

I appreciate your help and advice. Thank you guys VERY MUCH!!!!
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