Monitor Panel wires on the other end

[Gardnpondr]

I'm sorry I am new to having a RV and I also have some memory problems so please bare with me. Do you mind telling me how one could get both arms up in here to clean these wires and attachments? This is in the back drivers side corner. The cubby hole ? is not but about a foot or so wide. The screws need to be removed and cleaned.


ugh the pic didn't load.

[Gardnpondr]

OK maybe this one will have the pic on it.

The pic is sideways and the white stuff is at the top of the tank. I sure hope this stuff is holding and it doesn't have to be redone because this is UNDER the shower stall. Not sure which tank this is. Either the gray water or black since the drinking water one is on the other side, the front.

[Scamper Jim]

Hi,

Is that a Monitor I system? I have a Monitor II system and the probes are different from yours.

Are the probes giving a false reading?

If those have been in the tank since 1985 I strongly suggest that you not remove them with the intent of using them again. The rubber that seals them to the tank is almost certainly degraded, hardened and perhaps cracked. If you tried to use them again, there is a high probability of them leaking.

Before you do anything with them, call the company, they are still in business and ask if there is a way to clean the probes with a chemical or something to avoid having to remove them. Their site is:

www.kib.us Their phone is: 800-250-7051

If they have to be replaced, ask them if the current style of probe with the nut would fit in the holes in your tank and seal them. If they do, it would be better to put in new ones. You can get the new ones from any RV dealer as they are a universal style.

If you do remove the old ones, it can be done with just one hand with a screwdriver that is needed. You don't have to get two hands in there. Just loosen the screw and then pry them out with a screwdriver or the like.

The new probes would just press in and then the nut is tightened enough to compress the rubber seal. Then the loop at the end of the sensor wire is put on, and then the second nut is put on and snugged to hold the wire loop connector.

Again, don't do anything with those probes until you have checked with KIB, otherwise you could be turning a small problem into a very large one that will never stop leaking.

Let me know if you need further information.

Jim

[Borrego Dave]

Not sure what you're asking, is it not reading? If it's the black water a lot of folks add ice cubes to slosh around as you drive to clean the tank. Not sure if it would clean the monitor tabs although with a pretty full tank it should. Grey water....no clue of adding ice cubes. Replacing the probes are really not that hard if that is the problem.

[Glenn Baglo]

I suspect that if you replace the probes, within a few weeks, you will once again be getting inaccurate readings.
For the black, I just look down the hole. And, the gray? I've never actually filled it before having to dump the black. The fresh water I take care of by carrying an extra five gallon container, which is kept outside on the picnic table ( where we do most of our cooking and cleaning ) and can be refilled as necessary.

[Borrego Dave]

Originally Posted by Glenn Baglo

I suspect that if you replace the probes, within a few weeks, you will once again be getting inaccurate readings.
.

Why would that be Glenn?

[Gardnpondr]

Originally Posted by Scamper Jim

Hi,

Is that a Monitor I system? I have a Monitor II system and the probes are different from yours.

Are the probes giving a false reading?

If those have been in the tank since 1985 I strongly suggest that you not remove them with the intent of using them again. The rubber that seals them to the tank is almost certainly degraded, hardened and perhaps cracked. If you tried to use them again, there is a high probability of them leaking.

Before you do anything with them, call the company, they are still in business and ask if there is a way to clean the probes with a chemical or something to avoid having to remove them. Their site is:

HOME | KIB Electronics Their phone is: 800-250-7051

If they have to be replaced, ask them if the current style of probe with the nut would fit in the holes in your tank and seal them. If they do, it would be better to put in new ones. You can get the new ones from any RV dealer as they are a universal style.

If you do remove the old ones, it can be done with just one hand with a screwdriver that is needed. You don't have to get two hands in there. Just loosen the screw and then pry them out with a screwdriver or the like.

The new probes would just press in and then the nut is tightened enough to compress the rubber seal. Then the loop at the end of the sensor wire is put on, and then the second nut is put on and snugged to hold the wire loop connector.

Again, don't do anything with those probes until you have checked with KIB, otherwise you could be turning a small problem into a very large one that will never stop leaking.

Let me know if you need further information.

Jim

I have no clue if it's Monitor I system.? It's a 1985 Bigfoot camper if that helps any. :-) I have a pic of the other end inside the camper.
We haven't used it yet. We're going over it and cleaning everything because it's been sitting up for a few years. Haven't even plugged it in yet since we don't have a 30 or 50 amp to plug into.
Thank you Jim! So those sensors go through the tank. I hadn't thought about them going through it. I'm not sure HOW LONG they have been on but I do see some writing on the tank itself and it looks like it may be the original one. Going to cut and paste this info so I will have it when we do this. Thank you again Jim!!!

[Gardnpondr]

Here is the monitor panel if that will help any. Someone told me to clean the sensors because even in use they don't work right and to clean them and maybe they would. ????

[Darral T.]

The probes on the INSIDE of the tank is where the problem lies. You cant see in the tank to see their condition. Gunk builds up inside the tanks and can prevent them from reading correctly. As old as it is, and it's used, it's going to be hard to tell if they're accurate or not OR will they even read? You will have to test with water. If that system works, I will be VERY surprised! Tank monitor systems- even the newer ones- can be very finicky.

Good luck!

[Gardnpondr]

Originally Posted by Darral T.

The probes on the INSIDE of the tank is where the problem lies. You cant see in the tank to see their condition. Gunk builds up inside the tanks and can prevent them from reading correctly. As old as it is, and it's used, it's going to be hard to tell if they're accurate or not OR will they even read? You will have to test with water. If that system works, I will be VERY surprised! Tank monitor systems- even the newer ones- can be very finicky.

Good luck!

OH so I SEE now WHY it might leak like mad. OK thank you! I just thought they stuck on the outside.

[Darral T.]

The newer units for the most part have their probes on the outside. I just installed a "Tech-Edge" that uses aluminum tape sealed with 3M 90 to the exterior of the tank. The 3M is used on exterior tanks not necessarily internal. The tape sensors spans a larger area on the tank for "sensing" than the smaller probes on some of the other units. We'll see how it holds up. Glad I could be of some help.

Originally Posted by Gardnpondr

OH so I SEE now WHY it might leak like mad. OK thank you! I just thought they stuck on the outside.

[Steve L.]

This doesn't say it's for KIB monitors but it's what I expect you have in your tank. I'd want to know what size hole was in the tank before buying replacements. KIB customer service should be able to tell you. Assuming, of course, that the original owner/installer followed KIB's instructions.

Holding Tank Sensors -Screw In Probes

Revision:
In different site the MP5 was identified as a KIB probe.

As you surmised, do this with the tank empty.

Stick one in the hole. Tighten the inside nut (of the two shown) which swells the rubber part wedging/sealling the hole, then put the wire ring over the threaded stud and install and snug up the outer nut.

Perhaps you could prepare by closing your eyes and with your arms out to the side, practice touching the end of your nose with your pointer finger. Or, find a contortionist.

[Steve L.]

It looks like you've got galvanized or plain zinc coated washers and square drive screws, both of which are corroded. I can't say I've ever seen square drive machine screws. Square drive wood screws, yes. I'm a little concerned about what that screw head screws into in the inside. Your trailer has the end of the screw on the outside while the part I referrenced has the head on the inside.

[Scamper Jim]

You monitor does not appear to be a Monitor I from KIB unless they used some strange probes years ago. You may be able to find a name on the back of the panel.

If you decide to remove the wires, be sure to record the order of the colored wires and don’t switch them around. The colors can be different for each of the 3 holding tanks. Each color indicates only a specific level of liquid in the tank. For example, if the blue wire indicates Full, then if switched to the bottom hole it would indicate the tank is full even if it’s only ¼ full.

The white ground wire is directly below the positive probes. That is a strange place to place the probe. KIB says the ground is to be about 12 inches away from the other probes as there would be less chance of gunk buildup between the positive and negative probes and giving false readings. Even if your system is not from them, they can provide excellent installation instructions and illustrations regarding the placement of the probes to minimize problems.

Also, the 4 positive probes should be placed at a diagonal across the side of the tank so they are further away from each other and not directly above each other. That is so because a piece of T paper caught on and hanging from the top probe could connect with the probes below it and all giving a reading at the same time.

Once you have power to the panel, check the back of the panel to see if any power is going to the probes. You can also check the wiring by putting a voltage meter from the white ground to each of the colored wires at the tank. If the wires are good, they will probably read about 12 volts since there is no transformer at the panel.

The holes for the new style probes are 3/8”. If the probes that are in there now are larger than that, you cannot use the new style probes. You would either have to drop the tank and drill new holes and plug the old ones, or forget the system even exists.

Good luck,
Jim

[Gardnpondr]

Originally Posted by Steve L.

This doesn't say it's for KIB monitors but it's what I expect you have in your tank. I'd want to know what size hole was in the tank before buying replacements. KIB customer service should be able to tell you. Assuming, of course, that the original owner/installer followed KIB's instructions.

Holding Tank Sensors -Screw In Probes

Revision:
In different site the MP5 was identified as a KIB probe.

As you surmised, do this with the tank empty.

Stick one in the hole. Tighten the inside nut (of the two shown) which swells the rubber part wedging/sealling the hole, then put the wire ring over the threaded stud and install and snug up the outer nut.

Perhaps you could prepare by closing your eyes and with your arms out to the side, practice touching the end of your nose with your pointer finger. Or, find a contortionist.

LOL indeed..... I can just see us doing this one.

[Gardnpondr]

Originally Posted by Scamper Jim

You monitor does not appear to be a Monitor I from KIB unless they used some strange probes years ago. You may be able to find a name on the back of the panel.

If you decide to remove the wires, be sure to record the order of the colored wires and don’t switch them around. The colors can be different for each of the 3 holding tanks. Each color indicates only a specific level of liquid in the tank. For example, if the blue wire indicates Full, then if switched to the bottom hole it would indicate the tank is full even if it’s only ¼ full.

The white ground wire is directly below the positive probes. That is a strange place to place the probe. KIB says the ground is to be about 12 inches away from the other probes as there would be less chance of gunk buildup between the positive and negative probes and giving false readings. Even if your system is not from them, they can provide excellent installation instructions and illustrations regarding the placement of the probes to minimize problems.

Also, the 4 positive probes should be placed at a diagonal across the side of the tank so they are further away from each other and not directly above each other. That is so because a piece of T paper caught on and hanging from the top probe could connect with the probes below it and all giving a reading at the same time.

Once you have power to the panel, check the back of the panel to see if any power is going to the probes. You can also check the wiring by putting a voltage meter from the white ground to each of the colored wires at the tank. If the wires are good, they will probably read about 12 volts since there is no transformer at the panel.

The holes for the new style probes are 3/8”. If the probes that are in there now are larger than that, you cannot use the new style probes. You would either have to drop the tank and drill new holes and plug the old ones, or forget the system even exists.

Good luck,
Jim

OK thank you guys, sounds like I just might need to do the last part. lol

[Gardnpondr]

I wanted to share this. Was looking on videos about the sensors and found this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lCHJ1ZF9Usk

[Steve L.]

Scamper Jim makes a good point about it (may) not be a KIB. I picked up the KIB reference in a post and ran with it. Your specific unit may or may not be a KIB.

I wouldn't have thought the method proposed in the YouTube video would have worked since I thought cranking on the stud would just balloon the rubber part so that it wouldn't pass through the hole. But, it did, at least in that video. I don't suppose it hurts to try it.

[Scamper Jim]

Steve,

I had the same reaction when I saw that video. It's cute to see it work on new probes, but the rubber on the old ones has almost certainly formed around the inside of the hole and will take more than that to get them out.

I suspect that when using that trick on the old ones, the probe will pull through the hard, deteriorated rubber and then they will have to pick out the rubber pieces.

It may take an pair of adjustable Channel loc's with a good grip on the old rubber and rolling it over its top will be needed to extract them in one piece if it's at all possible.

The important issue is to find out the diameter of those probe holes. Start with the top one so that if it is larger, they can seal it with a rubber stopper in it and forget the whole thing. If they turn out to be 3/8", it will just be a simple matter of replacing them with new ones, and you will be good to go, if you know what I mean!

[Steve L.]

In terms of a temporary fix, they make rubber expansion plugs. They come in different sizes and they usually have a sort of lever arm that you flip down to expand the rubber sleeve once in the hole. But you need to know the hole diameter to buy the right one. Kind of a not-so-quick fix.

A simple tapered rubber plug would probably suffice and are available in a wide range of diameters at your local Home Despot, et. al. Might need extra measures (perhaps the handyman's secret weapon, duct tape) if you wanted to travel with the plug and keep it in place.

In my brief research I also found a dedicated probe cleaner solution (black/grey water only) to put in the tank but I question if it's just a simple cleaner of some sort price-bumped to catch somebody not inclined to try other solutions.