More Insulation - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 04-23-2013, 02:34 PM   #15
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Trailer: 84 16 ft Scamp
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Thanks very much for your comments and ideas. While I was thinking of addressing the walls/ceiling, I think you are correct, Donna, that the floor should be a higher priority.

I did address the windows last year. Our Scamp is an older one with jalousy windows, a wonderful idea for summer, but not for cold, winter use, since there is no way to adequately and effectively seal the individual glass slats. It is also a pre-rat fur model with the thin ensolite wall/ceiling treatment.

We bought a roll of Refletive bubble material with the foil on its surface from Home Depot and cut panels to fit each window. It does make the trailer kinda' dark inside but it made a major difference on those cold, winter nights.

Back to the wall/ceiling insulation -- I noted some discussion about adhesives, but nothing definitive. I had planned on using a contact cement. I have tried the water based, non-smelly type on another project and was quite disappointed with its performance.

To deal with the contact cement vapors I'm plannng to remove both front and rear windows, place a couple of 20 inch box fans in one end blowing out. Once I'm ready to fit a section of foam, I'll don a mask that auto body men use when painting cars and turn on the fans. Then I'll use a paint roller to 'paint' the contact cement on the section of wall/ceiling.

Does this sound like a reasonable strategy?
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Old 04-23-2013, 02:43 PM   #16
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You might try a can of spray adhesive with a piece of sample foam. I've used the 3M brand (any big box store) with great success on foam cushion pieces and various coverings to lexan and ABS plastics. FAR less messy than trying to paint overhead with a roller full of glue!

Charlie Y
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Old 04-23-2013, 04:40 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by tractors1 View Post
You might try a can of spray adhesive with a piece of sample foam. I've used the 3M brand (any big box store) with great success on foam cushion pieces and various coverings to lexan and ABS plastics. FAR less messy than trying to paint overhead with a roller full of glue!

Charlie Y
You got a good point. In fact one of my "U-build your own kitchen cabinet" books has a section about thinning contact cement out some with lacquer thinner or acetone so that it can be sprayed with a cheapo spray gun! The reason was to clad all plywood surfaces with masonite.

Heh! Heh! Heh!
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Old 04-23-2013, 07:59 PM   #18
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Spray adhesive could be great, but there are many brands and types. Even from 3M, there are several choices... choose carefully.
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Old 04-23-2013, 08:41 PM   #19
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Spray adhesive could be great, but there are many brands and types. Even from 3M, there are several choices... choose carefully.
Exactly why I suggest a trial application using some scrap materials before going gung-ho!

Retired engineer here - theory is great - BUT don't skip the trials to make sure you got it right!
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