Moving a Gas Line Connection/CO HAZARD (furnace)?

[Suzanne P.]

Is it "leftie loosie" or "leftie strip threads cram on connection forever"? It's not moving easily in either direction but before I muscle it I thought I should ask.
What I'm seeking to do is line up the back of this propane area heater with that insulated vent (to reduce CO hazard?), whereas before it was stuck on the outside low side of the right cabinet door with the gas line strung underneath, I'd like it installed to match the vent. Yes the propane is off. Any opinions would be appreciated. Thank-you.

[Herb P]

Is it "leftie loosie" or "leftie strip threads cram on connection forever"? It's not moving easily in either direction but before I muscle it I thought I should ask.
What I'm seeking to do is line up the back of this propane area heater with that insulated vent (to reduce CO hazard?), whereas before it was stuck on the outside low side of the right cabinet door with the gas line strung underneath, I'd like it installed to match the vent. Any opinions would be appreciated. Thank-you.

those flare connections, in my experience, are not left-handed threads. as in, they are your traditional thread. leftie-loosie if you will.

btw, that's not an insulated vent. That's both intake and exhaust for your gravity furnace. intake comes in the center tube and exhaust goes out the outer tube (if I remember correctly, I may have that backwards)... But anyway...

[Suzanne P.]

Ummmm, my what? Gravity furnace? OK I found a picture of one...http://www.houseneeds.com/shop/HeatingProd...eheatermain.asp
OMG, -- this is "what you see is what you get" situation, that's all I have is this little propane doohickey. Can I install it as I thought? Will it reduce CO hazard? Or do I have to make a different connection...or buy another furnace (this one works though). I was just worried since it had no venting.

those flare connections, in my experience, are not left-handed threads. as in, they are your traditional thread. leftie-loosie if you will.

btw, that's not an insulated vent. That's both intake and exhaust for your gravity furnace. intake comes in the center tube and exhaust goes out the outer tube (if I remember correctly, I may have that backwards)... But anyway...

[Suzanne P.]

I can't muscle it off, two big wrenches and it's not budging, scraped knuckles. I guess I have to take it in to the shop get this out--the catalytic heater says it needs 24 square inches open ventilation, so this is 28.26in2 so it should suffice, but for safety I'm going to check to see if it needs to be connected to this vent. Don't care to wake up dead from CO poisoning.

Is it "leftie loosie" or "leftie strip threads cram on connection forever"? It's not moving easily in either direction but before I muscle it I thought I should ask.
What I'm seeking to do is line up the back of this propane area heater with that insulated vent (to reduce CO hazard?), whereas before it was stuck on the outside low side of the right cabinet door with the gas line strung underneath, I'd like it installed to match the vent. Yes the propane is off. Any opinions would be appreciated. Thank-you.

[jrnutpaul]

And I'm sure there will be a detector mounted low on the wall.

Paul

[Dan M.]

You could cut the tubing behind the flare fitting with a tubing cutter and replace the elbow and the fitting with a ferule type fitting. When tightening use two wrenches and test with the bubbly stuff.

I don't think the venting is for the catalytic heater you show. Those heaters don't produce carbon monoxide given an adequate air supply, but will burn up the oxygen in a confined space. If the oxygen goes the heater may produce CO but you may already be gone.
VENTILATION IS IMPERATIVE

From About.com (my emphasis)
http://chemistry.about.com/od/howthingswor...codetectors.htm
Where Should I Place a Carbon Monoxide Detector?
Because carbon monoxide is slightly lighter than air and also because it may be found with warm, rising air, detectors should be placed on a wall about 5 feet above the floor . The detector may be placed on the ceiling. Do not place the detector right next to or over a fireplace or flame-producing appliance. Keep the detector out of the way of pets and children. Each floor needs a separate detector. If you getting a single carbon monoxide detector, place it near the sleeping area and make certain the alarm is loud enough to wake you up.

[Bob Cupp]

The beauty of these gravity or convection furnaces is that they do not require any electricity. With the forced air type you loose your furnace when the battery is dead. We camp in temps down to -5 F and the camper stays comfortable. We do not have a battery on board. I have seen many people trying to charge a battery to get their furnaces running.
If you do decide to replace your furnace, please let people on this site know that you would like to get rid of yours. They are getting harder and ahrder to find and there are several people looking for them.

[Brian B-P]

The existing vent in the wall is for heaters which need direct outside connections for combustion air supply and exhaust outlet. With the non-vented heaters, the ventilation requirement is to bring fresh air into the general trailer space, and allow stale (moisture laden, oxygen-depleted, containing combustion products) air out. There is no direct connection between the ventilation opening and the non-vented heater.

Normally windows and roof vents are used to provide suitable ventilation during use of non-vented heaters. I would just remove the existing vent fitting and cover the opening, unless I wanted a low (in height) fresh air intake point; even then, the outside air would need to get from the vent opening to the trailer interior past the heater, no directly into it.

I am assuming that the heater is a non-vented unit - and presumably catalytic, but I don't recognize the specific brand.