Musing from a new Scamp owner - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 12-04-2015, 08:46 PM   #15
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Name: Gordon
Trailer: 2015 Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
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I don't think I would argue with anything Floyd just said.. but Bill also has a point.

As one example, here are photos of the bath vent that leaked. All that was needed to find it was a visual inspection, yet it was delivered to me this way.

All the major parts of the camper were good however, and thats important. Everything worked right from the start and the relatively minor issues did not cost me a single day of use of the trailer.

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Attached Thumbnails
Caulk Gap.jpg   Caulk Gap Close-up.jpg  

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Old 12-05-2015, 07:04 AM   #16
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Thanks so much for sharing this wealth of information. It seems the old scamp we just bought has almost the same needs and tweaks as your new one. I was feeling a little down about the things we need to focus on to make our old scamp "campable" but now I see the new ones need the same things it makes me feel better. I have so much to learn and so much camping to look forward to. I really appreciate this site and all that you share here!
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Old 04-11-2016, 06:54 PM   #17
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The myth of the leak-proof fiberglass trailer

An update on my previous musings:

Just a few days past the six month mark of Scamp ownership I finally got to go on my first real camping trip. My first night and day was in an Army COE site in Georgia where it rained most of the time. We had about two inches of rain and were under a flood watch. The first night I woke up with damp feet due to leak number three. By the end of the same day, I was mopping up rain water from leak number four.

Leak number three was a slow drip coming off the front bottom rivet on the upper starboard side cabinet. The water ran down the side of the window frame and onto my bed. This was not condensation. None of the other rivets sweated and the leak stopped when the rain stopped.

Leak number four came from the small gap in the lockstrip at the bottom of the front window (where the lockstip starts/stops). The water infiltrated here and ran onto the area where the wood support for the sofa backrest is glassed in. No doubt it would rot the wood if left unrepaired. I wonder if the gap is supposed to be on the bottom or top. Seems to me it would be better on the top since any leak would then show up as water coming down the plexiglass. Please let me know if you have a recent vintage Scamp with the lockstrip gap at the top.

I do not expect either of these to be difficult to repair, but having to fix four different leaks in a six month old fiberglass trailer is discouraging. Mr. Kent Eveland will have my email with photo documentation in the next 24 hours or so and we will see how it goes.

I also have an intermittent problem with the starboard side brake locking up. I am thinking and hoping that they just need adjustment.

By the way, the rest of my 10 day trip had some of the best weather imaginable except for a couple of days of high winds. Except for the leaks, the Scamp made for a comfortable home away from home.
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Old 04-11-2016, 08:05 PM   #18
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Sorry to hear of your troubles. My 1986 16 foot doesn't leak a drop, even through tornadoes and terrible down pours. I think Scamp will take care of you though, given the age of the trailer. As for fixing them yourself, get some Butyl rubber tape. No silicone.
Butyl will stick to ANYTHING, and it will not go anywhere unless you want it gone.
I found the best price at Menards. The roll was like $3 and it's lasted me a LONG time.
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Old 04-11-2016, 08:20 PM   #19
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Name: Frederick / Janis
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Geeeesh Gordon, you've certainly been through it with leaks. Sigh. Got to be tiresome dealing with them. I was jumpy everytime we got rain this past winter in our new 13'. I'd paw through everything possible checking and re-checking for leaks, This phobia came from our 2002 which had several. Yes, I got them fixed and the rather awful floor damaged caused by a belly band leak in the rear.

I guess those leaks in the 2002 kind of made me a bit paranoid, but I gotta say. Never did experience any leaks in the 2016.

We pick up our layout 4, 16' in October. I seriously doubt I'll take leaks for granted in the new one either. Anyhow, I know you'll get those leaks fixed. Hang in there and get it done.
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Old 04-11-2016, 08:42 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KenjiFox View Post
... As for fixing them yourself, get some Butyl rubber tape. No silicone.
Butyl will stick to ANYTHING, and it will not go anywhere unless you want it gone.
I found the best price at Menards. The roll was like $3 and it's lasted me a LONG time.
Thanks for the tip.. I actually bought some Butyl tape a while ago to be prepared (but not at Menards.. none of those stores around these parts). I expect I will use a little when I redo the rivet.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bpfick View Post
.... I'd paw through everything possible checking and re-checking for leaks, This phobia came from our 2002 which had several. ...
Yes that is what everyone should do.. check, recheck and then check again for leaks. Nip em in the bud and it will be OK.
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Old 04-11-2016, 09:45 PM   #21
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All good info but now I am ever so paranoid about my 2016 Scamp which is due be deivered day after toorrow!
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Old 04-12-2016, 10:09 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gordon2 View Post
An update on my previous musings:

Leak number four came from the small gap in the lockstrip at the bottom of the front window (where the lockstip starts/stops). The water infiltrated here and ran onto the area where the wood support for the sofa backrest is glassed in. No doubt it would rot the wood if left unrepaired. I wonder if the gap is supposed to be on the bottom or top. Seems to me it would be better on the top since any leak would then show up as water coming down the plexiglass. Please let me know if you have a recent vintage Scamp with the lockstrip gap at the top.
We have a 1982 13 foot Scamp and the little gap is also on the bottom. Is it a weep hole? Is it supposed to be there? Ours leaks if we drive into a rainstorm (we don't have a window guard) but neither the front or rear has leaked during a storm if we are parked and camping. I put a small towel on the bunk ledge while towing, so if it rains, it doesn't run down the ledge, but I wonder if it matters if I just plug it?
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Old 04-12-2016, 10:59 AM   #23
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2016 Std.

My wife and I picked up our new 13 Std. on 3-30-16.

We then drove in the rain to Minot, N.D. We caught (3) snows before we got home. We camped comfort in sub freezing weather. In that weather, we much prefer the furnace over an electric heater. So far, everything works as it should.

We ordered a big bed rear hitch, furnace, Fantastic fan, extra lights, vinyl floor, back splash, and A/C. What we didn't order were things that might cause more leaks: front window and rock shield and 3 way refrig.

On our 13' in cold weather would leak lots of cold air into the cabin through the refrigerator vents. We have read about new camper leak water thru the refrigerator vents.
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Old 04-12-2016, 06:24 PM   #24
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On my rebuild of a 1985 Scamp 16' with many modifications I have had one problem finding a leak that runs into my new closet area in front of the door.
I have narrowed it down to the mating surface top and bottom that would be covered by the belly band trim.
Where these come together the inside is glassed from the inside, but not the outside lips.
On my trailer with the strip removed for cleaning ans sanding the bad paint off the water has run over the top half and run between there and the bottom.
This seems to run into a void and to a hole somewhere near the door jam.
I tool a skill saw and cut a kerf along this divide and filled the nearest few feet with epoxy sealant. This slowed the lead to where I did not see it when I sprayed water from a hose in the area, but last night's heavy rain did leak.
I am planning to extend the kerf all the way around the seam and fill with a PU sealant.
I think that what is happening is the water runs over the top lip and runs into the space between the two. If the space is filled then the water should run over both and the down the outside of the trailer.
Of course it the trim extrusion is installed and caulked on the top the water will run off the bottom and not into the camper.
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Old 04-12-2016, 07:17 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BobH. View Post
... What we didn't order were things that might cause more leaks: front window and rock shield and 3 way refrig.

On our 13' in cold weather would leak lots of cold air into the cabin through the refrigerator vents. We have read about new camper leak water thru the refrigerator vents.
I had Scamp skip the curtain rod holders to avoid the many holes it would create (and yet I still had four leaks) so I agree with the idea to minimize the number of holes. But I had to have a fridge (the bigger 2 way in fact).

We have had a lot of discussion about water in the lower fridge vent. I had some water at first but lately it has been fine. No idea why its been good as of late. Different people have tried different solutions and has mixed results. It is another area that one needs to check periodically.
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Old 04-13-2016, 11:31 PM   #26
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We got our new scamp delivered and have just returned from our first trip. We really like the size and simplicity of it and the light weight. However, we too are disappointed with so many quality control issues. I agree it is the least expensive fiberglass out there but I still don't think there should be so many issues on a brand new item. Inexpensive as it may be relatively it still does cost many thousands of dollars. Due to a death in the family we were unable to pick it up and had to have it delivered.

We had requested not to have the plastic "stinky slinky" mounted on the front but it came mounted anyway. Not much we could do about that after the fact. Oh well.

Escape hatch cover is warped and does not close properly.

Extra light in front outside facing the hitch is completely corroded and does not turn on.

Front door doesn't seal properly and the inside of door is dirty from water entering on the long haul out from backus.

One of the plastic stove knobs is broken.

The stove itself is warped and sags in the middle front.

One of the burners is crooked.

And the two knobs stick up at different heights and not straight up but at a bit of an angle. Don't know if these stoves are just poorly made or if they should be more uniform in appearance (other than the broken knob of course.)

We ordered the back splash and half way through caulking it someone must have gotten distracted because the caulking goes half way across and then they never finished the job.

The white refrigerator panel was only half way on.

Seams on linoleum only partially caulked leaving gaps for water to get in.

We chose this model because we really wanted something small and light weight but not a teardrop. We are happy with that part. But we are disappointed with there being so many things that need fixing right away. I wonder if the employees are just not treated all that well so perhaps do not care about doing the job well. I find it hard to recommend this brand when so much is wrong.
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Old 04-14-2016, 07:21 AM   #27
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Name: Frederick / Janis
Trailer: Previously Scamp 13 2002,2016. Scamp 16 on order
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We also had more than our fair share of workmanship/construction faults with out 2016 we picked up in November past.

1. The door was very ill-fitted, hinges cockeyed as well. If tightened enough for better fitment, it was impossible to shut. If loose enough to shut (with very firm pressure) the gaps allowed light, air and water to invade.

2. Rat fur seam strips were sloppy.

3. It had a noticeable flaw in the gelcoat on the curb side. Eye sore.

4. Many pieces of edging was missing where drawer and door cut outs were made in the fiberglass cabinetry.

However, there were no leaks of rain from seams, windows or rivets, which was all very good. The refrigerator grills do not leak and performed very well.

The biggest mistake of all was a missing tube connecting the city water. Imagine our surprise upon hooking up to city water and powering it up for the first time down in Texas this winter and discovering that!!! To Eveland's credit, Micah shipped the tube and couplers directly to our RV park and I installed the missing pieces.

So, the Scamp performed well enough for our winter snowbirding adventure and we sold the trailer upon our return home. It got the job done, but the over all quality control was very spotty at best.

We've ordered a new 16' and we will not be rushed at pick up this fall. We will also not be taking the trailer anywhere until we've gone over it as best we can. You cannot discover all the faults during pickup, but this time, we've no intention of leaving until we are satisfied.
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Old 04-14-2016, 07:55 AM   #28
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Water and wood floors don't mix well. Plenty of entryway rot in the forum archives, Best of luck. So much for the new Scamp door seal.

"bpfick
The door was very ill-fitted, the gaps allowed light, air and water to invade.

gtaylor
Front door doesn't seal properly and the inside of door is dirty from water entering"
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