My 1984 scamp needs help - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 12-19-2015, 07:17 AM   #15
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Name: Frederick / Janis
Trailer: Previously Scamp 13 2002,2016. Scamp 16 on order
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Originally Posted by spaghettiroad View Post
Apparently the water tank is new so I'm guessing that was the issue. Nonetheless I will check all that was recommended. What kind of sealer to seal the tin on the underside ? As well could I not use pl400 construction adhesive on the wooden patch ?
There are as many ways to repair a floor as handy folks on this forum. I'd recommend searches, perhaps, using the google portion of the search feature above.

FWIW, I cut out an area just about the size of the rear floor that you face, I suspect. One area was so rotten that I broke it out with a hammer and had a nice view of my driveway concrete below.
I was determined to cut back the rotted floor until only good, solid floor was present. I also cut out in the pieces square allowing for a tighter, truer fitment of the replacement.

I then took a 1/4" treated plywood board and screwed it to the floor from below. I did spray seal the edges of that board with polyurethane. This merely acted as a construction "basket" to hold the floor repair above in place.

Again, this acted as a temporary support for the replacement flooring piece which I installed from above, screwed from below. I used gorilla glue and coated the edges of the repair pieces and fit them in tightly. I also flowed gorilla glue into the seams and it seeped down and filled the seems. Repeated until the seams were virtually solid gorilla glue. Frankly, it was incredibly strong and only took about 3 or 4 ounces of gorilla glue to accomplish the task.

Honestly, it is as good as new, if not better than new.

Finding and repair the source of the leak is essential, of course, so to stop any future damage.
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Old 12-19-2015, 11:29 AM   #16
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I use aluminum, not tin, and I coat the underside with a spray-on undercoating.
I know that the Gorilla Glue expands when bonding and works extremely well for edge-to-edge joints. Construction adhesives tend be designed for face-to- face bonding.
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Old 12-19-2015, 09:13 PM   #17
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Name: Dawn
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Leak source

I found some soft flooring under my benches along the back wall. Turns out, a previous owner screwed the tail lights into & through the fiberglass. Not sure it would puddle in the center like that, but just another place to look
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Old 12-23-2015, 07:46 AM   #18
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Looks like the window to me, from here

Quote:
Originally Posted by spaghettiroad View Post
Apparently the water tank is new so I'm guessing that was the issue. Nonetheless I will check all that was recommended. What kind of sealer to seal the tin on the underside ? As well could I not use pl400 construction adhesive on the wooden patch ?
Spag, we are working on almost identical projects and we have similar leaks. Ours is coming from both the window seam and the spare tire mount holes. The previous owner replaced the flooring without fixing the leak so we've inherited the issues which were simple to see. However, we did remove everything from the dinette area and will be replacing the spare tire carrier with an external mount to the hitch receiver that many people use for bikes or a storage tray. You can find the spare tire mount on Amazon like we did. This mount will allow us to eliminate the holes through from the outside that are still leaking, and glass over them before we paint. Good luck on your repairs.
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Old 12-24-2015, 06:35 AM   #19
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Name: Wendy Lee
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I thought I'd chime in here as I went through the "where the heck is the leak" process in the rear of the trailer my first summer with it. Water (and only a bit, but it kept coming back) was running behind back of dinette bench and collecting under seat areas where water heater and fresh water tank are on each side. I dried all out with paper towels first, and then ran pump to send water through the lines as a check on my plumbing first. All was good. Was able to determine it was water running in from tail lights, along wiring. Sealed all that up with butyl tape and I believe that was the culprit However, I then took snap caps off where wood screws screw into glassed wood that dinette table anchors into. Corroded! Replaced all with stainless and put sealant over screw heads.

In sum, I learned a great deal and was glad it wasn't the window, as that would have been out of my league for a repair, I'm sure. I did be sure to clean the little weep holes with weed trimmer line, but they were clear.
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