need a different tow vehicle by end of next week!

[ontheroadagainace]

My current mini van was 'hail totaled' and now have a rental for a week...I am in Mt. about 60 miles from Billings and need help....finding right vehicle that would tow up to 3000#s or more (Scamp 16)...minimum $$s..maybe $6 0r $7000? Like to have hitch on it already...have electric brakes on the Scamp and controls went with my totaled van. I like Toyota/Honda/Nissan...(of course, nice if it matches Scamp!) :-)
Will be checking the mpg's/ if no pets/smokers kinda nice/very clean and very good condition...miles depends on vehicle and price....Sure would love some input...I live in the Scamp about 5-6 months each winter in Az. so carry alot of gear inside the tow vehicle and like that.
I also could fly to Portland to pick a decent buy up there.
Thanks for any ideas...don't want to be stuck out in the boonies and walking!!!.

[Mike Magee]

Just a thought... have you asked the insurance company if they're interested in selling the van back to you? I've heard stories of folks who got their vehicle back for a few hundred dollars (salvage yard price), ignored the cosmetic issues and happily kept driving the thing. Not every insurance company will do it, but some have.

Have a look at Craigslist in nearby areas. I think that cars and trucks don't sell as readily on CL as RVs do, because people who look for a cheap car tend to not have enough cash and maybe poor credit too, so they end up at a buy here/pay here lot or at least a lot with very easy credit guidelines. You may find a vehicle that's been listed for a month already and the seller's getting antsy, and along you come with a low offer, bingo!

Here's a listing in Billings, in your price range and no more than 10 years old: http://billings.craigslist.org/searc...auto_year=2006 The Ford Freestar (not Freestyle) is a capable tug, as is the Pacifica and the Murano. Plenty more to choose from, some with dents and some without.

Best of luck in your search.

[gordon2]

Originally Posted by Mike Magee

Just a thought... have you asked the insurance company if they're interested in selling the van back to you? ...

Unfortunately, any time you are under a short deadline to buy a vehicle you are at a serious disadvantage. I would guess your van needs glass replaced also, but Mike's idea still might be the best option if the van will be safe. That would give you the time to make a good deal on a replacement, and not have to accept what you can find while under pressure to buy in a week

[DavidG]

Originally Posted by ontheroadagainace

My current mini van was 'hail totaled' and now have a rental for a week...I am in Mt. about 60 miles from Billings and need help....finding right vehicle that would tow up to 3000#s or more (Scamp 16)...minimum $$s..maybe $6 0r $7000? Like to have hitch on it already...have electric brakes on the Scamp and controls went with my totaled van. I like Toyota/Honda/Nissan...(of course, nice if it matches Scamp!) :-)
Will be checking the mpg's/ if no pets/smokers kinda nice/very clean and very good condition...miles depends on vehicle and price....Sure would love some input...I live in the Scamp about 5-6 months each winter in Az. so carry alot of gear inside the tow vehicle and like that.
I also could fly to Portland to pick a decent buy up there.
Thanks for any ideas...don't want to be stuck out in the boonies and walking!!!.

_______________________________________________

Usually Insurance Companies give back the personal items in a totaled car : included added accessories. They might let you remove the brake controls. Or ask that they compensate you extra for it. You don't have to just accept their first offer ! David in Fresno and Sonora, CA

[Zennifer]

We really like our Sienna with the factory tow package. If you were willing to get to a major metropolitan area like Denver 8 hours south, you could probably find what you need in a day. We went out looking for a Sienna with a tow package on a weekend a few years ago. We found 5 online in our price range and age/mileage, and one was perfect. Portland is also probably a decent bet on that sort of thing.

[Carol H]

I would ask for the controller back.

As a side note many/most insurance companies do as has been suggested consider such items as a personal add on item - which they may or may not consider the cost of when settling your claim - particularly if it is not damaged and is recoverable.

[gordon2]

Originally Posted by Zennifer

We really like our Sienna with the factory tow package. ..

Wel, I like my Sienna also... but for many model years, and 2015 for certain, then is no real tow package. The van is built with components to give it a tow rating of 3500 lbs, 350 on tongue, but thats all. There is NO prewiring for lights or brake controller. There is NO support for a OEM brake controller or trailer lights either. I added all that and it was a PIA. For example, , I had to strip off some insulation from the brake light switch wire and solder on a tap for the brake controller.. Yes, I could have used a scotchlok type of thing, but I dont trust them with something as critical as trailer brakes. And for trailer lights, you have to remove the tail light assembles to plug in the converter.. its easy to break the tail light housings in the process, which would be quite expensive.

Since you are looking at an older van I cant say for sure, but be sure and know what is involved in getting it ready to tow.

[steve dunham]

When I traded in my 2011 Ram truck the dealer asked me to remove my aftermarket Tekonsha brake controller, so I removed it and replaced it with the factory dash insert. Many people don't want to buy a used vehicle that has been used for towing and an aftermarket brake controller is a dead giveaway that the vehicle was used for towing.

[Zennifer]

Originally Posted by gordon2

Wel, I like my Sienna also... but for many model years, and 2015 for certain, then is no real tow package. The van is built with components to give it a tow rating of 3500 lbs, 350 on tongue, but thats all. There is NO prewiring for lights or brake controller. There is NO support for a OEM brake controller or trailer lights either. I added all that and it was a PIA. For example, , I had to strip off some insulation from the brake light switch wire and solder on a tap for the brake controller.. Yes, I could have used a scotchlok type of thing, but I dont trust them with something as critical as trailer brakes. And for trailer lights, you have to remove the tail light assembles to plug in the converter.. its easy to break the tail light housings in the process, which would be quite expensive.

Since you are looking at an older van I cant say for sure, but be sure and know what is involved in getting it ready to tow.

For our 2003, the factory tow package is what gives you the ability to tow 3500; otherwise it's just 2000#. Should have specified year for sure.
Apparently in 2003, the package included the transmission cooler, the basic 4 prong wiring and hitch, and a few other things...

[jennykatz]

Go to Kellogg Idaho and check out Dave Smith cars and trucks .

[ontheroadagainace]

Thanks to all of you for information...currently digesting it...and have a lead on a couple Nissan Xterras near Bozeman, Mt. that might work. ('02 and '04)...I am OLD and won't give up camping and exploring just yet! Unfortunately the company I got the receiver hitch and electric brakes from doesn't have a computerized system , so no chance of getting a receipt from them. The Ins. co said , they need proof of purchase of those items and then would adjust accordingly. Whew!

[Raz]

When I visited Montana all I saw were pickup trucks. I suspect just about any pickup will pull your Scamp. While not for everybody, a pick up makes a fine tow vehicle. If you need extra space look for a double cab. Raz

[Borden]

scamp weight and tongue weight are important to factor in to the purchase.

[Borden]

light trailers can be pulled by some cars depends on trailer weight, tongue weight and hitch setup. Then consider the car or truck ratings with the setup. Subaru recommends 8% Toyota says 9% for the cars and Truck seem to be 10 to 15% tongue weight. Ours pulls really nice at 170 lbs tongue weight but the trailer weight means min of class 2 hitch. The do not make a class 2 for our car so have a class 3 frame hitch.

[Carol H]

Originally Posted by ontheroadagainace

Thanks to all of you for information...currently digesting it...and have a lead on a couple Nissan Xterras near Bozeman, Mt. that might work. ('02 and '04)...I am OLD and won't give up camping and exploring just yet! Unfortunately the company I got the receiver hitch and electric brakes from doesn't have a computerized system , so no chance of getting a receipt from them. The Ins. co said , they need proof of purchase of those items and then would adjust accordingly. Whew!

That may be the case for the hitch but the brake controller is an obvious separate piece of equipment attached to the dash that simple unplugs - not any different to if you had a portable GPS. If you had a portable GPS or IPod plugged into the dash would they not give those back to you?

[Carol H]

[QUOTE=Borden;592764]Subaru recommends 8% Toyota says 9% for the cars/QUOTE]



No Subaru does not say that!

What they actually say is:

"Ensure that the trailer tongue load is from 8 to 11 percent of the total trailer weight and does not exceed the maximum value of 200 lbs (90 kg)."

"The tongue load can be adjusted by proper distribution of the load in the trailer. Never load the trailer with more weight in the back than in the front; approximately 60 percent of the trailer load should be in the front and approximately 40 percent in the rear."

"If the trailer is loaded with more weight in the back of trailer’s axle than in the front, the load is taken off the rear axle of the towing vehicle. This may cause the rear wheels to skid, especially during braking or when vehicle speed is reduced during cornering, resulting in over- steer, spin out and/or jackknifing."


As someone who pulled with a Subaru for a number of years I assure you that you are best to follow the time tested rule of towing with a travel trailer of putting at least 10% of the trailer weight on the tongue and 12% is even better.

Leave the under 10% tongue weight application to pulling a boat - but then again depending on what type of boat you are pulling you may find you need 10% or more.

I also highly suggest strongly that you read what Toyota Actually says on the topic as well!!

[Borden]

Originally Posted by Zennifer

For our 2003, the factory tow package is what gives you the ability to tow 3500; otherwise it's just 2000#. Should have specified year for sure.
Apparently in 2003, the package included the transmission cooler, the basic 4 prong wiring and hitch, and a few other things...

For warranty we purchased new car with tow package, included 7 pin wiring, brake module, hitch, and a lot more. They said a trans-axle cooler a must but we would have to add it; so Mr Transmission put it in, The added Toyota safety systems as well required. When we picked it up the dealers rep explained the transmission changes and the need for weight distribution draw system with sway control and we would have to purchase it, Tire pressures and such also explained. Our hitch is a frame hitch connects at back runs under trunk up over wheel well and reconnects at the split seat area. This gave us extra weight drawing ability. We also told had to be a 4 door sedan. Randy at Can-Am RV in London Ontario the hitch expert setup the hitch system. The ministry, Randy, and the dealer all told us not to over inflate the trailer tires, tire max on sided wall is not the correct pressure, we learned that for our trailer it is 32 lbs per tire.
After the experience if getting a used vehicle would look for a vehicle that was factory sold with tow package if possible as not all items can be easily added retro to TV.
Remember drive legal, drive safe and have fun.

[Randy B.]

Check Cars.com. I see allot that fit your needs in the portland area but you would need to check your own area. I regularly see GM and Ford F150's RWD 6 and small 8's most have low millage (4X4 means big bucks) but allot have tow packages and hitches already. And less than 100,000 miles on them. Explorer is another option almost all of the V8 models came with tow packages.

[Randy B.]

https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/d...C=CRTrFBcusdyb

Used 1997 Ford F150 CAB
$4,999
81,776 mies
Color:Blue Engine:4.2L V6 12V MPFI OHV, Transmission:4-Speed Automatic
and its got a hitch already. Down side its in WA state.

[ontheroadagainace]

I am looking at getting a '09 Honda Odyssey to tow my 16' Scamp. It was set up to tow a Casita from the owner....has 97000 miles on it and an '09. Very nice shape. I think engine is 3.5....anyone have experience with this tow vehicle and is the engine strong enough to pull up the passes between Mt. and Az.?