Maintenance & Restoration

Otters · 08-04-2013, 05:15 PM

Hi, I'm thinking of installing a Camco Olympian Catalytic Wave 3 heater under the door of my closet (now pantry). Is this something I can do myself? I'm fairly handy and I've done a fair amount of updates to my trailer. But we're talking about propane here, and life or death consequences.

Secondly, what is the best way to run the gas line:

Would I T off of existing refrigerator?
or would it be better to tap into the existing line somewhere else?
Shhould I then run the gas line under the trailer and come up through the closet floor to the heater.

Thanks once again for any help you can provide here.

Linda

cpaharley2008 · 08-04-2013, 07:16 PM

What ever you do, do it right. Copper tubing with flare ends, special teflon tape for propane use, installing of hard wired propane alarm, testing all joints for leaks, installation of carbon monoxide alarm.

LK Gray · 08-04-2013, 07:19 PM

I can't speak for a Scamp. But I found it difficult to find a place that met all of the clearance specifications on a 17' Casita. PM me if you don't have the clearance specifications.

Otters · 08-04-2013, 07:29 PM

Jim, I'm familar with and planned to do all you said except for the propane alarm--I'll look into that. I already have the carbon monixide detector.

LKG, I sent you a PM regarding the clearance specs. Thanks!

Brian B-P · 08-04-2013, 11:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

What ever you do, do it right. Copper tubing with flare ends, special teflon tape for propane use...

Since not everyone will understand that the flares and teflon tape are for different types of connection, I'll mention that flare fittings do not use teflon tape (or any other kind of sealant), and the tape is used on pipe threads.

Brian B-P · 08-04-2013, 11:51 PM

The heater will use propane at a far higher rate than the refrigerator, so to use the refrigerator connection would include checking that all tubing and fittings were appropriately sized. In my Boler the propane runs under the floor in pipe, with transitions to copper tubing for risers to each appliance; that makes sense to me.

cpaharley2008 · 08-05-2013, 05:25 AM

Brian is correct, your heater may "starve" your refer for fuel.

stevebaz · 08-05-2013, 11:35 AM

If I were doing this project I would run a new line teeing with flaired fittings up near and after the regulator and run the line out side the frame down the door side and run the line up into the closet. You could tee off near the fridge but I personally dont want to run lines accross the trailer under the frame and I wouldnt drill through the frame to get to the other side. I would also contemplate adding a connection in this line for an outside BBQ or fire pit on the door side of the trailer while I was at it. Killing 2 birds with one stone. Make sure you mount the line in insulated clamps as you want no vibration in this line while going down the road. Examples of clamps below and are available at hardware stores, autoparts and marine and electrical suppliers. If you need a flairing tool check with a tool loan at you local chain type auto parts. Checker, o-rileys, auto zone all in that buisness have a tool loan program and may have a flairing tool so you dont have to buy one. Make sure you check for leaks in your new line before you go sleeping in your trailer. Follow the installation instructions with your heater unit. adding proper detectors are a wise investment but understand how they work and how to shut them off when you store your trailer if you use them or risk killing your battery.

Lot10 Zinc Plated Rubber Insulated Cushinoned Cable Wire Fuel Clamps Clips 12mm | eBay

**RogerDat** · 08-05-2013, 12:12 PM

On testing for propane leaks there is the general method employed, does soapy water applied to joints "blow bubbles" but there is also a method that is a little more involved but provides a better margin of safety.

Take a 1/2 in pipe T. Install a male flare fitting on one side, a schrader (tire fill) valve on the other and a air pressure gauge on the top. Need some pipe adapters.

Hook the flare fitting into the first flare fitting on the tank side. Use the schrader valve and tire pump or compressor to pressurize the line to "normal" pressure using the gauge.

Wait awhile (hours or overnight) if the gauge reading falls you have a leak someplace.

This will pick up leaks in fittings you can't see or that may have loosened in running your new line without noticing, or in shut off valves on appliances.

Kind of overkill but once I built the test gauge have used it a few times over the years. Peace of mind thing.

Otters · 08-05-2013, 04:21 PM

Thanks everyone. This is what I needed to know.

Steve, exactly the blueprint I needed regarding routing the line. I have a flaring tool & have done that before, so it won't be a problem. I get the insulated clamps. I wasn't aware of these and was wondering about that exact issue due to vibration. Love the idea of the connection for bbq/fire pit.

Now I just have to order that furnace.

Linda

stevebaz · 08-05-2013, 04:51 PM

Since you run copper line it is soft and maluable. road vibrations on the lenth of line can fatigue it. properly clamping the line down reduces these vibrations and makes the line move with the trailer bouncing happily along on its suspension. Take a piece of wire hold it in your hand. wave your hand up and down and it doesnt break the wire. bend the wire up and down and it eventually breaks the wire due to fatigue. Clamp your line to the trailer cancels out the fatigue in the copper line. Rubberlined clamps hold the copper line tightly without chafing.

Otters · 08-05-2013, 05:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stevebaz

Since you run copper line it is soft and maluable. road vibrations on the lenth of line can fatigue it. properly clamping the line down reduces these vibrations and makes the line move with the trailer bouncing happily along on its suspension. Take a piece of wire hold it in your hand. wave your hand up and down and it doesnt break the wire. bend the wire up and down and it eventually breaks the wire due to fatigue. Clamp your line to the trailer cancels out the fatigue in the copper line. Rubberlined clamps hold the copper line tightly without chafing.

Thanks Steve I certainly do want to do it right and not have trouble down the road...given we're talking about potential gas leaks.

I've been looking for threads and sources for parts for the secondary connection you mentiioned for outside appliances with no luck. Do you have any suggestions for how that would be done? I was thinking probably a T off of the furnace line with a stut off valve and maybe a quick connect connector of some kind???--accessible through a small hatch???