Need advice on running lights wiring - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-07-2016, 10:55 AM   #1
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Name: Patricia
Trailer: 1975 Ventura
Manitoba
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Need advice on running lights wiring

I am at the stage in my reno where I can start insulating and covering the walls but before I do, I want to make sure the running light wiring is good . I think not since there is one wire that is not connected. I have taken pics in sequence except for the first one which is fine.
I watched a great youtube video on 12v wiring that says not to use marettes (or electrical tape as in this case) so do I use heat shrink splices?
The pics will be over several posts from 2nd connection to the connection to the tail lights. Any help would be very much appreciated.
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Old 08-07-2016, 11:08 AM   #2
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Better pictures

Sorry, retook the pics - again in order to the end
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Old 08-07-2016, 11:11 AM   #3
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More pictures

Thank you.
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Old 08-07-2016, 11:30 AM   #4
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I like to use a Western Union splice, solder it and then heat shrink. It will never come undone.
In the past I have also installed PVC water pipe u dear the camper all the way from the front to the rear then run the wire through it then up to the inside of the camper. This allows for easy replacement of the wire should something go wrong.
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Old 08-07-2016, 11:48 AM   #5
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I am with Darwin on not using twist caps for the wiring for connection, I also use heat shrink to helping to keep things from coming loose over time and protect from moisture.

My know my old scamp had intermittent rear light issues as a result of the use of twist caps by the factory on the rear wires until I redid the connections.

The trailer does a lot of jiggling when on the road and its often only a matter of time before something comes loose.
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Old 08-08-2016, 02:29 PM   #6
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Hi I agree that soldering any joint is the right way to go. By doing this you will avoid any corrosion issue and also have a joint that will withstand any pulling apart. This is certainly something you don't want or need in a splice buried under wall coverings or equipment that restricts access should it fail. Use shrink tubing and also use a plastic or rubber sleeve in any areas that might be chafed by movement issues. Do it once ,do it right ! Over kill applies here ! Duane
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Old 08-08-2016, 02:41 PM   #7
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Duane is absolutely right.

When I heat shrink a solder joint I always heat shrink twice. The second overlapping the first. That is Double the insulation for safety sake.

Make sure when you solder the wires you do not have any sharp strands sticking out that could penetrate the heat shrink.

I also do as Duane said, I make sure there can not be and chairing going on.
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Old 08-09-2016, 02:46 PM   #8
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I solder and use adhesive lined shrink sleeve. it insulates and seals the connection. Harbor freight carries it at a fair price.

42 Piece Marine Heat Shrink Tubing

If you absolutely have to use wire nuts on hidden 12 volt systems I use the type used in sprinkler wiring sealed and water proof.

DryConn Small Waterproof Wire Connectors - Aqua/Orange (20-Pack)-62114 - The Home Depot
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Old 08-13-2016, 06:24 PM   #9
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Used pro crimp tool; just did all the running lights. Added eyes to wire ends put stainless steel bolt through eyes then stainless washer with bonded neoprene washer to wall side for water tight seal, then put through hole in fiberglass out through light with a stainless washer and nut on inside of light, added eye to wire on other side put it on bolt with washers and nut. Water proof and stainless so all is good did not solder any joints. lights work great. Used lights the same size and look as old light to make the job easyer and look a lot like original.

p.s. Also like heat shrink tubing. Always important to remember trailers flex
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