Need Help Painting Shell!! - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-12-2010, 08:13 PM   #1
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Just started removing some of the old paint that is on my 74 hunter today and not sure where to go from here. I used a random orbit with 100 grit to start with and then 220 on a small area to see what was under the brown. The bottom is like aqua green and the top section is white.Not sure whether to keep the green/white or just go white all over.I dont have a sprayer except for a waggoner paint crew but don't think it would do this.Thinking about rolling it with a small roller that I read about somewhere on this site but can't find it now.Don't know what type of paint would be best to use. Thanks for any help. Harold
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Old 05-12-2010, 09:15 PM   #2
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Just started removing some of the old paint that is on my 74 hunter today and not sure where to go from here. I used a random orbit with 100 grit to start with and then 220 on a small area to see what was under the brown. The bottom is like aqua green and the top section is white.Not sure whether to keep the green/white or just go white all over.I dont have a sprayer except for a waggoner paint crew but don't think it would do this.Thinking about rolling it with a small roller that I read about somewhere on this site but can't find it now.Don't know what type of paint would be best to use. Thanks for any help. Harold
I'd go to a fibreglass boat shop or plastics store and ask for advice on painting fibreglass.

The plastics store I called in Toronto (called PlasticWorld) told me no problem painting the trailer with boat paint just make sure if the gelcoat is worn off to use a good quality primer before using the boat paint.
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Old 05-12-2010, 09:22 PM   #3
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If you plan to brush this, do a search on 'cutting in'. Basically this is brushing a pattern on; then brushing at 90 degrees; then brushing at 45 degrees in both directions. It tends to eliminate brush strokes from showing. I wouldn't consider using a roller as with these types of paints, that would tend to leave micro-bubbles which in time wear down and leave a non-glossy surface.
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Old 05-13-2010, 12:28 PM   #4
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If you plan to brush this, do a search on 'cutting in'. Basically this is brushing a pattern on; then brushing at 90 degrees; then brushing at 45 degrees in both directions. It tends to eliminate brush strokes from showing. I wouldn't consider using a roller as with these types of paints, that would tend to leave micro-bubbles which in time wear down and leave a non-glossy surface.

Thanks for the inf Rick and Dave!!!
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Old 05-13-2010, 12:55 PM   #5
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I would highly recommend spray application. No matter what technique you use, brushing will show brush marks.

Rolling with a fine foam roller may leave bubbles with certain kinds of paint, but will produce a more level finish than brushing. Rollers are cheap.

Try whatever you decide t do on a piece of scrap first to see how it might come out and to refine your technique. You might be surprised how good it turns out.

Another thing, 100 grit sandpaper is pretty aggressive, but probably required to get the old paint off and level. You should re-sand with each grade successively up to at least 320 for enamel.

Once sanded and any chips filled and primered, you might check with an auto body shop to see what they might charge to spray it. If you bring it to them all prepped and masked, they may be glad to do it for a very nominal price. If so, I would go with a 2 part poly color followed by a clear coat.

Around this area the company that specializes in this is called MAACO. I would expect they might be in Tennessee, or perhaps a similar company.

Another thing to be aware of -- even if you brush it and it ends up looking pretty lousy with brush marks, as long as there is enough paint film thickness, after it has dried it can be block sanded and polished to the point of perfection. Normally you would wet block sand with 400 grit to get rid of all shiny spots. Then a light sanding at 600 followed by 800. if you keep going up to 2000 you will hardly need to polish at all, however with a power buffer, I have had good results stopping at 800.

Even the best spray job can be brought to higher perfection by block sanding and polishing.

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Old 05-13-2010, 02:15 PM   #6
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After sanding we used Brightsides marine paint. First a marine primer and then the finish coats. This was applied with a small 4 inch foam roller. Some have used Tremclad to paint theirs.
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Old 05-13-2010, 06:01 PM   #7
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We had a 'shop' (a favor owed!!) paint our exterrior with NO body work, just scuff the glass, mask everything and a good wipe down with a tack cloth then sprayed.

We ( I ) did the painting inside also(as in above post) with Brightside paint and a non foam roller, ....left plenty of tiny bubbles and when dried almost looked like a 'hammerite' paintjob.

Hindsight = 20/20, I SHOULDA used a good FOAM roller!!!

Just my 2 (Canadian) worth....LOL!
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Old 05-13-2010, 07:35 PM   #8
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We had a 'shop' (a favor owed!!) paint our exterrior with NO body work, just scuff the glass, mask everything and a good wipe down with a tack cloth then sprayed.

We ( I ) did the painting inside also(as in above post) with Brightside paint and a non foam roller, ....left plenty of tiny bubbles and when dried almost looked like a 'hammerite' paintjob.

Hindsight = 20/20, I SHOULDA used a good FOAM roller!!!

Just my 2 (Canadian) worth....LOL!
Thanks everyone for the info.Didn't get to work on it today,maybe tommorrow.I had read a thread about Tremclad but couldn't remember the name. Thanks to all. Harold
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Old 05-14-2010, 07:35 PM   #9
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I would highly recommend spray application. No matter what technique you use, brushing will show brush marks.

Rolling with a fine foam roller may leave bubbles with certain kinds of paint, but will produce a more level finish than brushing. Rollers are cheap.

Try whatever you decide t do on a piece of scrap first to see how it might come out and to refine your technique. You might be surprised how good it turns out.

Another thing, 100 grit sandpaper is pretty aggressive, but probably required to get the old paint off and level. You should re-sand with each grade successively up to at least 320 for enamel.

Once sanded and any chips filled and primered, you might check with an auto body shop to see what they might charge to spray it. If you bring it to them all prepped and masked, they may be glad to do it for a very nominal price. If so, I would go with a 2 part poly color followed by a clear coat.

Around this area the company that specializes in this is called MAACO. I would expect they might be in Tennessee, or perhaps a similar company.

Another thing to be aware of -- even if you brush it and it ends up looking pretty lousy with brush marks, as long as there is enough paint film thickness, after it has dried it can be block sanded and polished to the point of perfection. Normally you would wet block sand with 400 grit to get rid of all shiny spots. Then a light sanding at 600 followed by 800. if you keep going up to 2000 you will hardly need to polish at all, however with a power buffer, I have had good results stopping at 800.

Even the best spray job can be brought to higher perfection by block sanding and polishing.

Thanks Loren> Yes the 100 gr is a little coarse but the old brown paint is very thick and tough and also was painted with a brush and had deep brush lines.I use the 100 until I can barley see the green and then switch to 220. I took one bottom section all the way down to the green today and it was pretty smooth but I don't really like the color.Read last night about the Tremcoat (rustoleum enamel)approach that the guy did on a Dodge charger and it really looks great. another guy did his scamp on this site and it looks good.Lots of wet sanding(which I have never done before)but I have the time. Not sure where to get the professional small rollers that they are talking about.The guy said not to have the paint shook when you get it as that will cause bubbles for quite a while.Thinking about sanding down smooth and trying this method,thinning it down quite a bit with mineral spirits. Thanks to all for the help,Harold
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Old 05-15-2010, 06:27 AM   #10
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Just a hint for a better finish.........
Yes, the foam roller will leave a million tiny bubbles on the surface of your pant job but this is followed by using a small high quality brush and wisking the paint very gently. Keep your brush dry and use just the ends of the bristles and brush lightly, across the lines of the roller. Also too heavy a coat will bubble more. Go for a couple of lighter coats instead of one heavy one. This will break most of the tiny bubbles leaving a smooth surface. This was advice given to me by the marine shop where I purchased the paint and it worked well.
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Old 05-16-2010, 09:53 AM   #11
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Just a hint for a better finish.........
Yes, the foam roller will leave a million tiny bubbles on the surface of your pant job but this is followed by using a small high quality brush and wisking the paint very gently. Keep your brush dry and use just the ends of the bristles and brush lightly, across the lines of the roller. Also too heavy a coat will bubble more. Go for a couple of lighter coats instead of one heavy one. This will break most of the tiny bubbles leaving a smooth surface. This was advice given to me by the marine shop where I purchased the paint and it worked well.


Thanks James/ Did you do the tremcoat with mineral sprits mixed in? How many coats? The Charger recommend 2 coats and then wet sanding -2more coats,wet sanding-2 more coats,wet sanding if I understood it right. Did you do something similar to this? Thanks Harold.
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Old 06-01-2010, 05:05 PM   #12
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Harold, I painted a car with tremclad (rustoleum) and a roller after seeing that same site about the guy that painted the orange charger and the vw beetles. It worked great for me, and really the only hard part was experimenting with adding the thinner amounts. roll it on, and it just lays down. Many thin coats, i did 4 on my car, and it still looks great a few years later. for the foam rollers, they are about 4", and one end is rounded - they are white, and quite rigid - you can't really squeeze them easily like a sponge.
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Old 06-01-2010, 08:19 PM   #13
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Harold, I painted a car with tremclad (rustoleum) and a roller after seeing that same site about the guy that painted the orange charger and the vw beetles. It worked great for me, and really the only hard part was experimenting with adding the thinner amounts. roll it on, and it just lays down. Many thin coats, i did 4 on my car, and it still looks great a few years later. for the foam rollers, they are about 4", and one end is rounded - they are white, and quite rigid - you can't really squeeze them easily like a sponge.
Thanks Nate: I just started working on camper yesterday after a 2 week hiatus.I did the rustoleum professional enamel in gloss white and used the "green"mineral spirits which is kinda white also. Painted the poptop roof yesterday and put second coat on it late today. It is looking pretty good!! Am going to wet sand next with 400. Also got rest of shell prepped (finally) and got one coat on it.Looks great not to see the ugly brown anymore ha!!I have been adding thinner untill it looks pretty watery as the one guy recommened.Planning on doing 6 coats.I decided to use the 6" roller,really amazing to use. Never heard of them before until finding about them on this site. Thanks for in info.
Harold
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Old 06-01-2010, 08:29 PM   #14
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Quite interesting, please, put as much details as you can, where you find everything, pictures with it, I mean everything !!! ;-)

I just did the essential on mine, interior is perfect, new axle, I had to re-do the 12 volts wiring, I think the previous owner didn't knew anything about electricity, well I'm an engineer in that, tonight I did bring my Boler to a good welder to have the frame re-enforced (where it is used to crack in front where it bends toward the tongue, and in fact the driver side of it was starting to crack) since I'm going to make the tour of Gaspesia (2500 Km) in August, I didn't want to take any chances.

Next spring I will restore the exterior.
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