Need some advice on replacing roof escape hatch vent, please! - Fiberglass RV


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 09-21-2018, 11:42 AM   #1
Member
 
Name: Julie
Trailer: 13' Scamp / 1983
Montana
Posts: 50
Need some advice on replacing roof escape hatch vent, please!

I am renovating a 1983 Scamp 13í , and have purchased a new replacement escape hatch/vent for it. Itís the old roughly 14 x 21 sized hatch that most everyone collectively hates ... !

The holes in the new vent match up to the existing holes in the roof. In researching several of the threads (although they are older threads) I see that some owners are using stainless machine bolts and nuts rather than rivets.

Is there a benefit to using machine bolts rather than rivets? I have removed the silicone (Good Lord ....), will clean up with acetone just before putting on the butyl and resetting the hatch in place.

I could use some advice from someone with more experience than I have? Thank you in advance!
__________________

Julie in Montana is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-21-2018, 12:17 PM   #2
Senior Member
 
Byron Kinnaman's Avatar
 
Name: Byron
Trailer: 2006 Scamp 13' towed with a 2005 Dodge Dakota 4.7l Magnum W/full tow package (over kill)
Oregon
Posts: 6,951
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Julie in Montana View Post
I am renovating a 1983 Scamp 13í , and have purchased a new replacement escape hatch/vent for it. Itís the old roughly 14 x 21 sized hatch that most everyone collectively hates ... !

The holes in the new vent match up to the existing holes in the roof. In researching several of the threads (although they are older threads) I see that some owners are using stainless machine bolts and nuts rather than rivets.

Is there a benefit to using machine bolts rather than rivets? I have removed the silicone (Good Lord ....), will clean up with acetone just before putting on the butyl and resetting the hatch in place.

I could use some advice from someone with more experience than I have? Thank you in advance!
If you like tightening bolts all the time go with bolts and nuts. If you don't go with the rivets.
__________________

__________________
Byron & Anne enjoying the everyday Saturday thing.
Byron Kinnaman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-21-2018, 12:35 PM   #3
Member
 
Name: Julie
Trailer: 13' Scamp / 1983
Montana
Posts: 50
Thanks, Byron. It seems to me the rivets would be easier to seal as well.

Any experience / thoughts on sealing other than using butyl?
Julie in Montana is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-21-2018, 12:52 PM   #4
Senior Member
 
Name: Gordon
Trailer: 2015 Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
North Carolina
Posts: 3,602
Quote:
Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman View Post
If you like tightening bolts all the time go with bolts and nuts. If you don't go with the rivets.
Bolts with Nylock nuts will be stay as tight for as long as rivets..maybe even longer. Scamp uses rivets as they are cheap and fast But they also use bolts in a few high stress areas. When I went to Scamp this summer they redid a number of rivets on one upper cabinet that has become loose (in less than three years). YMMV.

The advantage of rivets for roof vents (besides cost and time) is that you don't need access to the underside, under the wall / roof covering, to install OR remove them. (Or I should say remove the thing attached, since part of the rivet will be left behind when you drill off the head of course).
gordon2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-21-2018, 01:46 PM   #5
Member
 
Name: Julie
Trailer: 13' Scamp / 1983
Montana
Posts: 50
Thanks, Gordon. I bought a rivet gun than runs on compressed air and have been pretty happy with what I've replaced on the Scamp with it so far. I was wondering if there was a good reason to change to bolts, but I think I'll stick with the rivets.

I didn't have any trouble removing the old rivet shanks from under the edge of ensolite by slipping in a small screwdriver to pop them out, and the interior finishing flange is wide enough to cover them, also. I should be good to go ...

Thank you for taking the time to help!
Julie in Montana is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-21-2018, 01:51 PM   #6
Senior Member
 
Name: Steve
Trailer: Scamp 13
California
Posts: 1,703
When you make the decision to replace the rivets with bolts you may want to think about designed failure. A pop rivet in aluminium is far weaker than a brass, stainless steel or a steel bolt that rusts in the same size. You are less likely to have a bolt fail than a rivet so instead of the rivet failing you get a bolt pull through condition or a sawing action on the fiberglass making holes bigger than they would normally be until they pull through. Bolts may solve a problem or create another problem that is tougher to fix.

Once you get the hatch fastened down with Butyl tape sandwiched between the hatch and the shell trim off the squeeze out. then seal the whole vent flange over the fasteners onto the shell with Dicor flow-able sealant.

https://www.campingworld.com/dicor-s...CABEgKtmvD_BwE
stevebaz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-21-2018, 02:12 PM   #7
Senior Member
 
Name: Gordon
Trailer: 2015 Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
North Carolina
Posts: 3,602
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevebaz View Post
... Bolts may solve a problem or create another problem that is tougher to fix....
On the other hand, bolts allow you to incrementally tighten the flange against the body as the butyl beds and spreads out. With rivets you cannot tighten anymore after they are set, even though the butyl will thin out. When I redid my city water connection I used small bolts (and nylock nuts). I made the bolts hand tight, then came back a few hours later and tightened them a little more, then came back the next day after the butyl had spread and oozed out, and gave the bolts a slight final tightening. It took a day for the butyl to fully bed. At first the butyl did not come out from the entire flange, and this photo is the next day.


On the other hand I used rivets on a roof vent and that worked fine also.
gordon2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-21-2018, 04:04 PM   #8
Senior Member
 
Borrego Dave's Avatar
 
Name: Dave
Trailer: Casita SD17 2006 "Missing Link"
California
Posts: 3,739
Quote:
Originally Posted by gordon2 View Post
On the other hand, bolts allow you to incrementally tighten the flange against the body as the butyl beds and spreads out. With rivets you cannot tighten anymore after they are set, even though the butyl will thin out. When I redid my city water connection I used small bolts (and nylock nuts). I made the bolts hand tight, then came back a few hours later and tightened them a little more, then came back the next day after the butyl had spread and oozed out, and gave the bolts a slight final tightening. It took a day for the butyl to fully bed.
I use this same process with rivets too. A slow pull on each until I feel a little resistance, then a half pull all the way around and walk away. Equal short pulls after some setting time. All rivets popped within a quarter stroke of each other.
Borrego Dave is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-21-2018, 04:34 PM   #9
Senior Member
 
Name: Gordon
Trailer: 2015 Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
North Carolina
Posts: 3,602
Quote:
Originally Posted by Borrego Dave View Post
I use this same process with rivets too. A slow pull on each until I feel a little resistance, then a half pull all the way around and walk away. Equal short pulls after some setting time. All rivets popped within a quarter stroke of each other.
Agreed! Good advice.
gordon2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-21-2018, 08:55 PM   #10
Member
 
Name: Julie
Trailer: 13' Scamp / 1983
Montana
Posts: 50
Thank you all for taking the time to offer your thoughts!

My air driven rivet gun must work different than yours, Dave. (Or this might be a case of too stupid to know Iím wrong?) My gun seats the rivet with the first squeeze, then another to break off the leftover mandrel.

I decided to use rivets and was able to get the new hatch installed with the butyl this afternoon. I should have the Dicor lap sealant here early next week and will finish up with that.

Thanks again! Hoping to pay it forward some day!
Julie in Montana is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-21-2018, 09:38 PM   #11
Senior Member
 
John in Santa Cruz's Avatar
 
Name: John
Trailer: Escape 21, behind an '02 F250 7.3 diesel tug
Mid Left Coast
Posts: 1,831
I think Dave is talking about using a manual, not powered, pop-rivet gun...
John in Santa Cruz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-21-2018, 10:06 PM   #12
Senior Member
 
Borrego Dave's Avatar
 
Name: Dave
Trailer: Casita SD17 2006 "Missing Link"
California
Posts: 3,739
I don't have a pneumatic gun Julie, just the old manual hand powered type. If I were doing SS rivets often I would as there're tougher to pop. The manual guns do give you the advantage of pull control. FWIW, the mounting holes in many of the plastic vents, hatches and such can easily be broken by running a rivet to popping without the wait time. Do you know if your gun can be reset to a lighter stop range so it could be used in stages?
Borrego Dave is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-22-2018, 07:22 AM   #13
Member
 
Name: Julie
Trailer: 13' Scamp / 1983
Montana
Posts: 50
That I do not know, Dave. I donít think so?

It is a Campbell Hausfield - ran about $70. I opted to go that route as I broke my wrist just before starting on the Scamp this summer and thought I would need the extra ooomph from the air after I healed up.

After reading the minimal ownerís manual this morning, I see nothing to indicate the rivets can be set in stages. Again - one more lesson here!
__________________

Julie in Montana is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
escape


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
How to replace escape hatch vent operator 2010 scamp Yarnstormer Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 7 03-11-2018 04:53 PM
Need some advice, please Kathy T Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 15 01-09-2016 06:13 AM
replacing escape hatch vent crank.. Christi V. Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 4 03-04-2009 07:16 PM
To Roof Vent, Or Not To Roof Vent Frederick L. Simson Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 5 02-22-2009 05:41 PM
Replacing -----------Roof vent cover Kevin K Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 11 02-04-2008 09:57 PM

» Upcoming Events
No events scheduled in
the next 465 days.
» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:52 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
×