Needed Info on Traveler Stove in Scamp - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-22-2012, 10:09 PM   #1
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Name: RogerDat
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Question Needed Info on Traveler Stove in Scamp

The top of the Traveler 2 burner stove in my 1977 scamp is missing the latches, catches, or springs that are supposed to hold it down. I'm hoping to get a picture from another owner of what should be there so I can try and duplicate it. Scamp store says stove company has been out of business for many years so I'm not going to find parts.

For now we just lift the top with the grates attached and stow it while traveling but I sure would like to have a go at repairing it properly.

Thanks for any help you can provide.
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Old 03-23-2012, 05:13 AM   #2
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Roger, I have a different brand, but the cover is held down with several thumb screws (easy on, easy off for cleaning). If memory serves me correctly, one in the upper left and one in the lower right. The screws look similiar to this:
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Old 03-23-2012, 08:45 AM   #3
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Donna's correct 'bout the 'hold down' screws. Dunno what brand I have in my '84 Scamp 13. It uses a single hold down 'thumb' screw in center between the grates. When I got the trailer last year the cooktop was so crusted up with crud that I actually had to do a search to see how it was held on. Still haven't gotten it cleaned like I want but it's lots better and there are no 'little animals' growing on it now. My problem is the 'spring' clips that hold the grates in place while under way. One was missing & the 3 that are left have rusted so badly that I question whether they'll actually do their job on roads rougher than paved highways?? I fabricated a new clip to replace the missing one from stainless scrap but it has little 'spring' & is so thin I'm sure I'll hafta find something else. This is what my cooktop looks like (the little yellow arrow shows the hold down screw)
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Copy of IMG_3802.JPG  
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Old 03-23-2012, 09:44 AM   #4
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traveler stove in Scamp

Roger, if I am understanding your question, you are looking for the hold down for the part that your pot sits on over the burner. My '84 Scamp which I don't have any more, used a spring-steel clip like the one shown in the picture posted by Harvey.
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Old 03-23-2012, 10:31 AM   #5
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The spring thing that holds the burner grills is ok, It's the whole top that wants to slide around. Now that I know it might be a thumbscrew I'll take another look for a threaded bracket underneath that might align with top.

Differences I notice between my stove top and picture are round vs square burner grill and my control knob panel is under the top. Top lifts off and control knob tray stays behind. BTW Donna & Harvey nice clear pictures.
I'll post what I find.
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Old 03-23-2012, 06:52 PM   #6
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Roger, the thumb screws for my stove actually have a much smaller head. When screwed in a very small portion sticks out. I'm not describing this well. AND, I have a three burner stove if that makes a difference. But, it's definitely screwed around the edge, not in the center like Harvey's.

It's supposed to be nice tomorrow, if you need a picture, let me know.
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Old 03-24-2012, 06:21 AM   #7
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Our Uhaul has the same stove as Harvey's, and a couple of the spring clips were missing that hold the burner grates down. Before I got replacements from another member here [thanks Mike] I used a piece of fine wire to hold them in place, wrapped around the grate and through the clip slot. Bob
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Old 03-25-2012, 12:30 PM   #8
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Pictures of problem - it is different

I don't think this top used thumb screws originally, hope these pictures can provide a clue to what was there. While I tend to favor "original" so I don't have to re-engineer, don't mind building own a solution if I can and will go to a "bailing wire and duct tape" solution if it gets the job done for now.



Bracket close up:
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Old 03-25-2012, 01:02 PM   #9
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Supporting images of stove and bracket

These image links provide more detals. No point in loading the page with images. It looks to me like the brackets are turned 90 deg. from original position. I see what looks like a shadow stain where they used to point up not sideways. I'm guessing some part in the top "clipped" into these brackets.

Note the rubbing damage from the whole top shifting around.

Overview of stove with top removed showing bracket location (plus some used matches and a lost ponytail tie).

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/m...icture1604.jpg

You can really see the shadow in this picture. And notice on this side hole is through stove metal not just fiberglass.

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/m...icture1607.jpg


This close up of the top shows how close the hole is to the raised lip. I think this would make a thumbscrew solution require a spacer to get it above the lip.

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/m...icture1608.jpg
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Old 03-25-2012, 03:02 PM   #10
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Ideas

Hi Roger,

This stove looks like one that I had in my 1980 HILO. As I can remember the top was held down with thumb screws with a fiber like washer about 1/16th
thick. Also on each corner a 5 or 6 inch piece of TRIMLOC to keep from scatching the counter. Hope this helps. Keith
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Old 03-25-2012, 06:16 PM   #11
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Keith,
Trim around bottom edge sounds like a greate idea. So did it have a round fiber washer under the thumb screw? Or is that image of trim that went around bottom or did the thumb screw run through something like that image...?
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Old 03-25-2012, 06:53 PM   #12
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Roger, Yes, the washer was under the screw similar to the one Donna posted.
My stove was missing one of the corner trim pieces so I replaced all 4 with a 5 or 6 inch piece wrapped around the corner 2 or 3 inches each way. Hope this makes sense. Keith
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Old 03-25-2012, 11:15 PM   #13
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Keith,
Perfect sense. I am blessed to live near not one but two honest to goodness hardware stores. I will make a run to them soon for thumbscrews and fiber washers. I will have to provide something for them to screw into but that should not be a problem (knock on wood). Should be able to epoxy the existing holes, drill and tap or just stick some nuts on with epoxy.

Is this what you used for the edge? Did you order from them or buy local? Trim-Lok's Size Ranged Edge Trim
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Old 03-26-2012, 06:11 AM   #14
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Roger, it appears to me that those old 'clips' would have been rotated 90 degrees left & the upper half would be 'bent' back down to the surface of the stove 'flange' where the hole is. The 'spring clip' part of the hold down probably held some kind of 'bulb' type screw/bolt/rivet that may have been screwed or riveted to the cooktop surface where the holes are. Are the 'spring clips' actually part of the angle piece or are they fastened to it somehow? Looking at your pix above, & then the linked pix, it appears the 'clip' on the right side is actually part of the angle & the left side may be bent up over the angle, thus presenting a different 'face' to the underside of the cooktop?? If the side hole shown in pic on link #3 above is on both sides of the cooktop, perhaps the clips held/captured some kind of nut that the thumbscrews screwed into from the side??

Seems like it would be pretty easy to remove those old rusted clips & fabricate a new 'angle' piece (think I'd use 1/8" aluminum), place it in the correct position over the cooktop 'pan', rivet or screw it thru the existing hole then drill & tap a hole where the existing surface holes are, for the thumbscrew to go into... or, you could use thin material & just drill the hole to a size that the thumbscrews would screw directly into it. I'd use the 1/8" thick aluminum for rigidity/stability.
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Old 03-26-2012, 07:33 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerDat View Post
.........Is this what you used for the edge? Did you order from them or buy local? Trim-Lok's Size Ranged Edge Trim
JC Whitney has this stuff in 20 foot lengths. I just bought some to cover the center seal on my UHaul. Nice to trim out raw fiberglass edges, etc, too.

Fairchild Industries FLEXIBLE INTERIOR/EXTERIOR TRIMS - JCWhitney

Click on "Item Details" to see all sizes and colors


Free shipping through today with GOODBUY promo code.
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Old 03-26-2012, 09:19 AM   #16
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Trim loc

Hi Roger,
You got the right company however if you don't need a roll for a coupla hundred dollars try this one

R and P Carriages Trailer Sales > Body Parts, Exterior Cargo, RV > RV and Trailer Trim, Seals

They sell it by the foot. I've bought from them several times and they are fast
service. Keith

Again I think the screw went into some kind of nylon seat. I just can't remember exactly. Age in my case.
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Old 09-11-2012, 02:36 PM   #17
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Roger did you ever get to the bottom of this. Both of the side clips are busted on mine and even with the molding on the sides of the stove and the thumbscrew as tight as can be it still doesnt stay put.

I am looking for a replacement stove as we speak, but in the meantime it would be nice to fix what ive got.

Keep me posted. Thanks. . jimbo

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Old 09-11-2012, 04:13 PM   #18
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Jimbo: can you make up something with those hardware store corner braces, or a short piece of aluminum angle, fasten it to the sides of the stove bottom, use a couple sheet metal screws down through the stove top into the angle to hold it down. Or if you want to get real fancy, drill & tap a hole in the angle, or braze a nut to the angle and use a couple thumb screws.
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Old 09-11-2012, 04:58 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mary and bob
Jimbo: can you make up something with those hardware store corner braces, or a short piece of aluminum angle, fasten it to the sides of the stove bottom, use a couple sheet metal screws down through the stove top into the angle to hold it down. Or if you want to get real fancy, drill & tap a hole in the angle, or braze a nut to the angle and use a couple thumb screws.
Thx.may have to go that route
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Old 09-11-2012, 11:00 PM   #20
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Have some parts from the hardware but have not yet taken on the task. Did check for fit of brass screws etc.

Since I already have a hole in both the stove top and the stove bottom I am going to attempt to make a stud out of a brass machine screw that I can put a knurled nut on.

My idea is to cut the head off of the brass machine screw, thread the nut on then JB Weld (metal epoxy) the nut and threaded rod to the hole on each side of the stove base. That will give me a stud coming up through the stove top that the knurled nut can go on.

But the comment about using a bracket and nut brazed/welded together has me thinking.... I could just use a bracket with a hole in it and a nut and lockwasher to make a stud out of my brass machine screw. It almost looks like the holes in the top (possibly where the original catch attached) are wider apart than the stove base. Bracket would deal with that better as the "L" shape can come up and out to line up with the holes.

Would also allow me to have the bracket directly under the hole when I mark it through the stove top for drilling. Less chance of poor alignment with top that way.
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