New Amerigo Owner - FINALLY.... Need Advice. - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 02-14-2014, 09:34 AM   #15
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As for as weight goes for the T&G goes, I was a little worried about that as well. I figured on the Ventura build I probably gained a bit but the weight of the cupboard doors probably was probably close to 50lbs alone while the new pine ones were 1/3 the weight. Total loaded weight with water, checked last year , was 1700lbs so not too bad. I think the packages of pine were 9 lbs each and I used around 18 packages less the scrap.

I can't remember what I used to glue in the strapping but it was probably either fiberglass resin or epoxy. I haven't tried Liquid Nails but make sure that you have clean surface and rough up the fiberglass to get a good bond.

Here is a link to another venture rebuild which shows the bare trailer with its bones showing
1975 Ventura Restoration
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Old 02-14-2014, 09:50 AM   #16
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Just a Thought

[QUOTE=David Tilston;441353]Bob tends to be a bit of an alarmist. He advises tossing many useful things. If he were inclined to sell the items he tosses, I would likely be one of his best customers.
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If I didn't think it was safe to use something in my own FGRV why would I be willing to give or sell it to anyone else? In the case of the DUETTE, I not only disassembled it, but also crushed it before sending it off to the scrap pile.

BTW: Back in the day of new Duettes, affordable CO alarms weren't available anyway, but, when again, if you are depending on something else to protect you from a known avoidable problem, why not just get rid of the problem.
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Old 02-14-2014, 11:59 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Miller View Post
BTW: Back in the day of new Duettes, affordable CO alarms weren't available anyway, but, when again, if you are depending on something else to protect you from a known avoidable problem, why not just get rid of the problem.
Seat belts, used to make cars safer. Why not just stop using cars?

Life is full of compromises.
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Old 02-14-2014, 01:17 PM   #18
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Chris,
Be aware that the windows in your Amerigo are screwed into interior wood frames.
I replaced mine with 1x2 boards. There is no asbestos as the insulation is like styrofoam.
At least in the roof. I would leave the fridge alone as mine still works great.
I removed the wire screws with the stripped screw removal tool from Sears.
If the wood is all rotted be sure to check the boad the door hinges are attached on.
Also, (from experience) always build with the wall angles in mind.
Good luck !
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Old 02-14-2014, 04:07 PM   #19
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Dudley,
Thanks for the tips - speaking of prepping the fiberglass for adherence... after you had it stripped down to the interior FG shell, did you clean or prep it with any solution before you started glassing in anchor strips and placing insulation....? With the mold damage that I have (I am assuming it's a mess), I am thinking a good once over/wipe down the entire interior shell with maybe acetone or mold X, or....? Thoughts?

Geary,
Also thanks for the tips - I will probably have more questions for you since we are some of the few amerigo rebuilders/owners out there... In regards to the windows, they are my biggest problem/source for all the previous water damage so I am definitely taking them all out to have sealed proper. I saw the window anchor strips you mentioned, however, I am seeing a lot of various rv windows on ebay (the newer mount in and secure with trim ring kind) and I am wondering if it'd be wise to just start with new windows all together in the beginning while I am this early in the resto....? The factory screw in window frames just seem 'shotty' and scream "This won't be the last of water leakage you see out of me...." Thoughts there? Have you experienced any more problem out of these Amerigo windows....?

Does anyone have thoughts on these old screw-in, amerigo windows versus the newer mount in kind....? I am wondering if the newer design is truly superior and worth the expense or is it a matter of just installing the old ones 'right' and then shouldnt need to worry for leakage if they are installed and sealed proper. I want my spaceship water tight and worry free haha

Bob,
I am leaning towards putting in a smaller, lighter, drop in cook top to help make up for the weight I will be adding in the interior, and then just using a Mr. Heater for the colder temps. I figure, if I insulate properly, a Mr heater should do the trick, not to mention so much lighter and simpler of a system. Also, from a budget standpoint, would it be feasible to just retrofit a coleman propane campstove into a cooktop, or even just use one of those on the kitchen counter until I can afford a nicer, proper cook range, like atwood or SMEV. I'd assume it's fine as it's a propane cook top, just as the other are. I'm just not sure if I'd need to worry about gasses emitted from those versus if the RV specific ones, or if they're all the same... with proper ventilation and a CO detector, I don't see why I couldn't just use one of those.... Thoughts there?


Thanks for the comments, fellas..... this is all great stuff.
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Old 02-14-2014, 06:14 PM   #20
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2 & 3 Burner RV cooktops are cheeep on CraigsList and eBay. I have a 3 burner stainess steel Wedgewood cooktop that I'd take $25 + shipping for. No need to go the Coleman route.

The SMEV are RV compliant and somewhat expensive, but the small 2 burner + sink unit I put in my Hunter was only about $200 from Panther RV in Seattle. I think that they are the only stocking SMEV dealer in the U.S.

If you want to blow a budget big time,try finding the right size windows some day, it ain't easy. Realize that the original windows lasted at least 20 years before neglect caused leaks. Reframing the inside edges isn't that big a deal. Actually I think that I would prefer screw down windows vs the clamp in type most of us have. And BTW, both had been around for years before yours was built, it was a matter of mfgs choice.

I put an RV furnace in my Hunter but we never use it because we are almost always on battery. I use a Coleman cat heater and leave a vent open. Keeps the chill off down to about 20 or less.

"Water tight" & "Worry free" are mutually exclusive terms in the RV world. But if you do it right the first time you can almost be both.
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Old 02-15-2014, 07:34 AM   #21
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I was lucky, mine was in pretty good shape with no mold on the inside. I would definitely clean down the interior shell with something that will wipe out the mold. Just be careful that you have good ventilation as some of the cleaners have really bad fumes. Same goes for gluing strips in, open all windows and doors and wear a good paint filter mask that blocks the fumes. Better safe than sorry! You are working in a very confined space and hitting the floor hurts or worse.
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Old 02-16-2014, 05:37 PM   #22
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As far as the windows, after resealing them, I have had no leaks. I used new rust-proof screws with a square or torx fitting and the grey tape putty from the local rv shop.
I think that replacing the windows with new ones would be rather expensive just from the size of each (my two cents).
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Old 02-16-2014, 05:55 PM   #23
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Welcome to the Forum Chris from N.C.
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Old 02-17-2014, 03:43 AM   #24
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Thanks for the welcome, Papa T!
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Old 02-17-2014, 04:01 AM   #25
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Ya, I see what you guys are saying on the windows.... After finally tearing out the paneling and getting a good look at how they are framed in, they won't be any problem and quite easy to reframe in and reinstall/seal them properly.

Geary,

I have a question about the roof, particularly the double-hull interior portion (the white interior ceiling portion that all the cabinets were attached to)... Well, mine seems to be in good shape so I don't know if I should mess with it... however, I have no idea what's behind it, and I would rather have the ability to reframe the roof along with the rest of my interior skeleton (as seen is some of the beachcomber rebuilds), so I can plan/build out accordingly, and work from a flat roof versus the akwardly molded shape of the ceiling hull. I guess the thought of framing out the interior along side a 'blind spot' (ie the upper white hull) with no knowledge of the anchor studs behind it, etc., makes me a little nervous. Also, I'd like to see if it needs any runners that I could bring down into the new subfloor for added roof support/anti sag, and I would also reinsulate the top, along with the rest of the trailer, as I'm sure it probably has the poor factory fiberglass padding randomly stuffed up there.... but that would be a huge task and if unnecessary since my roof is good as is, why create more work/expense for myself... I guess if it aint broke, don't fix it..... so....

Should I go down this road and pull out that white roof....? I'd hate to open up pandora's box, as mine is in great shape as is, but I am already in for a complete rebuild, so what's a little more work if this would pay dividends down the road....

Does anyone have experience here with this double hull deal.....? To tear out, or not tear out.... that is the question...... lol
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Old 02-18-2014, 04:19 AM   #26
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Also, I am getting ready to pull out the sub floor. Not sure how it's anchored down, as I am worried about damaging the bottom shell of the fiberglass in the process of removing the old plywood. And I can't tell but it seems as though the plywood was also glassed to the bottom sidewall of the bottom half of the shell as well. Do you just go in and take a cutting wheel to it...? Not sure how to proceed.... Any advice here would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 02-18-2014, 01:01 PM   #27
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I pulled home an Amerigo just this week. Won't be starting in on it till the weather is better though. Mine's a total gut job as well. I look forward to watching your progress and stealing any good ideas.
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