New Compact Jr. Owner with a few ???'s

[Tammy King]

Hello! I have purchased a 1972 Compact Jr. completely gutted for $200. (I feel a little guilty about getting it so cheaply!)

I love this camper. It is exactly what I have been looking for.

I'm new to fiberglass, and have been reading this forum for a few weeks now.

Here's some of my questions:

1. Since the 1972 Compacts do not have anything on the walls, I'm wondering if there is significant adavanatage to carpeting the walls? I am thinking the 12 inch squares with adhesive on the back might be an easy material to work with. This would be done without using ensolite, or any sort of insulation. then again, I may just paint the walls if the carpet isn't worth the trouble.

2. My windows appear to be completely intact and the drip holes on the bottom are clear. I noticed when I washed it that the water just pours into the camper through the windows. Is this normal for Compact windows? Should I upgrade them as I start to re-store this camper to my specs?

Thanks in advance for your suggestions!

[Ricky 4]

Wow- what a great price for a unique camper.
We have one and love it-it fits in our garage.
We have clear caulking on the outside around the windows-no leaks.
The walls have been painted white-no insulation or rat fur on them. I am going to paint them a light mustard or similar color to match the cushions.
You have a blank slate and can customize the camper to suite your taste.
Good luck and take pictures and post them.

[Larry&Carrie]

Hello! I have purchased a 1972 Compact Jr. completely gutted for $200. (I feel a little guilty about getting it so cheaply!)

I love this camper. It is exactly what I have been looking for.

I'm new to fiberglass, and have been reading this forum for a few weeks now.

Here's some of my questions:

1. Since the 1972 Compacts do not have anything on the walls, I'm wondering if there is significant adavanatage to carpeting the walls? I am thinking the 12 inch squares with adhesive on the back might be an easy material to work with. This would be done without using ensolite, or any sort of insulation. then again, I may just paint the walls if the carpet isn't worth the trouble.

2. My windows appear to be completely intact and the drip holes on the bottom are clear. I noticed when I washed it that the water just pours into the camper through the windows. Is this normal for Compact windows? Should I upgrade them as I start to re-store this camper to my specs?

Thanks in advance for your suggestions!

Gee- that's too bad you paid so much for it--- now it looks like I may have paid too much for mine.....
I went thru a complete rebuild on the one I got last year--- gutted it, took the body off, rebuilt/strengthened frame, new cabinents, new floor, repaint, etc. (See- "I did it again" under modifications I think-I don't know how to put the link in- someone needs to educate me)

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/index.ph...c=28776&hl=

try this link, I think I remembered how.... I hope....

Now to add my comments on your questions:
1. Something needs to be done to insulate the walls- being single wall construction- IT SWEATS!!!! That's the next thing I need to do. Carrie and I like to have drowned in a summer rain squall--drips running down the walls everywhere from the condensation. And we didn't have much heat on as it was summer time - just a burner to keep coffee warm and knock the chill/dampness off. I am actually thinking of gluing 1 inch rigid foam on, then a rat fur type marine carpet I have. (will also keep my friend from freezing to death in hunting camp)

2. I had removed the windows when doing the body work and then reset them with butyl tape and replacing the rotten plywood interior frames with mahogany. They do not leak, and we went thru a deluge last fall at the ocean (Pacific type ocean) I would guess the windows are fine, just that they are not sealed to the body in your case.

Hope I helped. Larry

[Tammy King]

Thanks guys! your responses do help. I'm wondering if my window problem isn't the butyl tape... I'll know more when I get into it.

Tam

[Kent I]

Congratulations on your project. If other things like work did not get in the way, I would have glued on, headliner material that I obtained from Escape Trailers. to insulate the walls. We have all the supplies, just need the time.

Looking forward to doing this to prevent condensation.

[Donna D.]

Thanks guys! your responses do help. I'm wondering if my window problem isn't the butyl tape... I'll know more when I get into it.

Tam

Good thought. Pulling the windows and using butyl will give you years of problem free windows. Don't blob stuff on the outside, that's a temporary fix that takes hours to clean up and then to fix properly.

You will need to do something other than just paint on the inside. As Larry mentioned, condensation can be a problem. Besides, an interior covering of some sort gives a sound dampening affect. Without it, imagine being in a rain storm... sorta like having your head in an over turned bucket... ping, pong, plunk!

Having a blank slate would be cool... YOUR ideas, your mods

[floyd]

Hello! I have purchased a 1972 Compact Jr. completely gutted for $200. (I feel a little guilty about getting it so cheaply!)

I love this camper. It is exactly what I have been looking for.

I'm new to fiberglass, and have been reading this forum for a few weeks now.

Here's some of my questions:

1. Since the 1972 Compacts do not have anything on the walls, I'm wondering if there is significant adavanatage to carpeting the walls? I am thinking the 12 inch squares with adhesive on the back might be an easy material to work with. This would be done without using ensolite, or any sort of insulation. then again, I may just paint the walls if the carpet isn't worth the trouble.

2. My windows appear to be completely intact and the drip holes on the bottom are clear. I noticed when I washed it that the water just pours into the camper through the windows. Is this normal for Compact windows? Should I upgrade them as I start to re-store this camper to my specs?

Thanks in advance for your suggestions!

I think you will find that carpet squares will be a bit of a problem since they are relatively heavy and don't support each other.
Ozite makes a light area rug that is mold resistant , scrubbable, glueable and conforms better than regular carpet. it is sold as 6'X8' area rugs for $10-$15 a piece.
It also comes in two textures and several colors.
It comes in a cream color also (not shown in the site) and is available at Menards or other Home improvement stores.
Look here.....

http://www.ozite.com/rprod.cfm?item=rp7

[Harry Young]

Tam,

Normally I do not mention techniques here I cannot post with photos when I do not have pics of the suggestion...This time I will because I have done this well in the body of my trailer twice...I am currently doing it now again, it is working well with a few changes I have learned to incorporate since the original try in 1991.

I did not know FBRV then, computers being new and all...forget digital cameras!!! way too pricey, also F.R.P was a new material just coming up into its own right.

The first try...the concept. (1991) done in a Campster.

Imagine sectioning the trailer ceiling into separate spaces using the top of the window frames as lines by elongating them, "think the top inside window box fur strip with its top straight horizontal piece going from the bulkhead wall to the front cowl". The wood fir strip has an ell notched into its underside by cutting into the wood strip via a table saw prior to installing, at the backside facing up towards its window side is the notched edge, the other side is identical.

Now imagine putting silver bubble wrap insulation up against the exterior hull from inside, (then I used carpet foam) next cut textured F.R.P. (fiberglass reinforced panel) slightly larger than needed calculating the extra for the top curves in the ceiling, this curve extra measure added to the cut is needed plus "sum" for the notch work in the fur strip it helps lock the F.R.P. panel in place later, clicking into the extended wooden window fur strip now bordering the ceiling.

The "extra sum" + the curve measure sum" also puts the correct tension into the panel when clicked into the ell cut into the backside of the wood window frames elongated bordering the ceiling. This causes the panel to arc squarely and smartly into the curved spaces at the top of the ceiling holding the removable panel there without any adhesive.

That was the prototype concept. How I handled the cowl or nose area was a different solution.

In the prototype trial run years ago (1991) I learned that heat can cause a slight sag in the F.R.P. panel when heated when a non reflective insulation is used.

I live in the high desert, so this is a good testing ground for that issue.

Now in this current remodel, I have built an oak center console against the ceiling from the front trailer cowl/nose to the pop-top hatch, it now trisects the roof space into thirds, solving any thermal sag issue once panels are in place because they are smaller panels.

In this second try I have a panel tensioned into place from the top window to the outside edge of the center console (reading lights dvd player there now) the console continues with the insulation in place behind it dead center with the the other third F.R.P. panel as a repeat performance on the other side. My horizontal cuts are easy below the window also clicking into place with no sag issue ever, with bubble insulation behind everything.

Currently the Astro body is upside down and disassembled, I am closing holes and re-finishing the trailer in 2 part epoxy Perfection tm. as my Astro hull needs to be completely sanded because of sun damage or I would send pics now.

When in a week or two longer after I re-sanding the millionth time again, applying Perfection tm. re-finishing the section under the belly band I will flip it over reassembling the panels again inside the interior...I will photo it again, I just thought I would burst out this solution to my Astros thin skin issues because I have not really seen it done this way liking the results, so this is my 2 cents worth.

The pics I originally took died in the last P.C. fiasco never to be recovered again...I sent the drive in to a rescue recovery service but they could not rescue that part of it...Now I upload to internet storage my pics.

Hope I spit it out right to be visualized.

Happy Camping, Safe Trails.

Harry

[Raya]

Good thought. Pulling the windows and using butyl will give you years of problem free windows. Don't blob stuff on the outside, that's a temporary fix that takes hours to clean up and then to fix properly.

Hear, hear! I was going to say the same thing, but didn't want to sound like a broken record (since I've said it before... and before... and before...)

Don't discount using Ensolite on the inside. This is what was used on Boler 13s and on early Scamps, and unless there has been a catastrophic event, it has held up very well (and some have even brought it back from catastrophe; just ask Roy). It's closed cell, so no worries about it soaking up moisture, and you can wipe it down to clean it.

The only difference is that the original Ensolite had a whitish/greyish layer of vinyl bonded to the "room" side, and I haven't found that available anymore. That said, it is completely paintable (indeed, many people have painted even the vinyl-coated version just to freshen it up or customize it).

Note that this is not the same as the "marine vinyl" that commonly has open celled foam on the back (which can absorb water).

I've obtained samples from IR Foam Specialty who are listed in the resource links to the left here, and there is a Boler restoration (Jenny's) that shows them installing and painting Ensolite from IRFS.

Once nice thing on the Compact is that you're working with nearly square walls, not the curvy egg-style ones

Raya