New Discovery on Scamp Leak: What about this? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 09-05-2014, 11:48 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by CPW View Post
Well, that shows how little expertise I have. I do not recall any caps below the belly band on my 5er.



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I didn't think my 13' did either. But for once I was wrong
Maybe only they're only on the 13'.
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Old 09-06-2014, 05:23 AM   #16
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Wendy,

I've taken off every cap on the out side of my Scamp and have never seen a single screw.
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Old 09-06-2014, 06:31 AM   #17
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I found water in this area looked 2 days for leak found that the city water hookup fitting was loose on the inside of camper tighten nut on water line no more leak
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Old 09-06-2014, 07:00 AM   #18
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Is it POSSIBLE those screws are holding the table hardware to the trailer? And since it's right there by the spare tire, they used screws, instead of rivets, because they had to go through the piece of plywood that's fiberglass to the body (on the inside) for the spare?
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Old 09-06-2014, 07:36 AM   #19
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I did find a thread from 2013 whereby folks were talking about this. Yes, screws are supposed to be there and they do support the glassed in piece of wood for the dinette brackets inside. But that one on the right is corroded and spinning, so I'm going to replace it just the same. Trying to figure out what I should use as a sealant on top of screw, and what if anything, behind plastic washer. I've always used butyl putty tape behind plastic washers before riveting, and I do have proflex sealant here a the house. Not sure if I should go ahead and get larger diameter SS screw. Also not sure if I should coat screw heads with any type of glue or not, such as gorilla or something.

If this doesn't solve the leak issue I'm going to do it anyway since PO told me Scamp table cracked in accident and he had to replace and tighten down new screws inside for table brackets.
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Old 09-06-2014, 07:39 AM   #20
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Old 09-06-2014, 11:05 AM   #21
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scamp screws

I would abandon the use of wood screws and use stainless, 10-24 machine screws and a locknut on the interior. Drill the correct sized hole for the new screw. I would retain the snap cap and its base. Use a stainless washer that fits the 10-24 screw at both ends. You will find that the washer fits perfectly inside the base for the snap cap. As always when penetrating the shell, use a small piece of butyl putty around the head of the screw as you refasten everything. Before you replace the snap cap, stuff more butyl puty around the head of the screw. On the interior I would consider using a fender washer over the rat fur. But this rat fur is not something I know. My Casita has foam backed carpet.
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Old 09-06-2014, 11:45 AM   #22
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My 5er is a "96 and it had screws in your described location that held the wood in place for the dinette. They were rusted and loose and I had to replace the the wood under the rat fur. The screw were not sealed when we did the repair which may have accounted for the moisture getting in. Hope you get a good answer from Scamp. Let us know.
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Old 09-06-2014, 01:50 PM   #23
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Thank you for all your replies. Had to get groceries this am and called scamp but no answer. Sometimes they answer on Saturdays and others not. Gonna put a meal in the crockpot and have a beer. Later if rain clears I'll come out and tap on the wood to listen for for and sponginess. I'm still going to replace these screws with stainless. Maybe put a little carpenters wood glue in the shank butyl on the hole and cover with proflex in addition to plastic washer of course. I'm running out of time and sure hope this is it. No screw should spin if right! Whether it fixes leak or not I'm still gonna change it out.


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Old 09-07-2014, 11:24 PM   #24
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Been there, done that. The screws hold the board that the kitchen table mounts to. My belly seam was leaking behind the board for the table, and rusted the screws and rotted the board.




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Old 09-08-2014, 01:13 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by CampyTime View Post
But what I'm asking is this factory spec? My trailer is a 2012. The screws are not holding up cabinets. Possibly for that wood block that dinette table anchors into on inside of trailer? One is corroded and spinning. I know there's bolts for spare tire but this seems odd to me.


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As we all know Scamp hasn't change much over the years as to how they put the trailers together and I know on my 1992 they did indeed use wood screws into the wood holding up the dinette table hardware and just put snap caps on them as they do with the rivets..... so far no issues with it..... 22 years old next week.
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Old 09-08-2014, 09:48 AM   #26
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Hmmm, For some reason I thought I had read that the belly band couldn't leak but that may explain the leak that has developed under the bench seat at the dinette on my driver side. A PO had calked the belly band with what looks like a silicone (Aarrgh) so I think that will be my next repair! Thanks.
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Old 09-08-2014, 12:54 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by Janb313 View Post
Hmmm, For some reason I thought I had read that the belly band couldn't leak but that may explain the leak that has developed under the bench seat at the dinette on my driver side. A PO had calked the belly band with what looks like a silicone (Aarrgh) so I think that will be my next repair! Thanks.
While leaks on the belly band can & do happen if the fiberglass connecting the two halves together cracks its not all that common of an event on Scamps, so it isn't the first place most people would look for a leak.

BTW I think it may be Scamp who puts the bead of calking around the top of the belly band - as its a common sight on most Scamps I have looked at regardless of age.
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Old 10-08-2014, 08:11 PM   #28
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In the end I believe it was the tail lights that were the source if my leak. In fact 99 percent sure. I still didn't like the look if those screws I took out that hold the glassed wood in for the dinette brackets. #8 by 1" zinc and were rusty about half way down thread. I replaced with SS and put butyl under plastic washer and proflex over screw head. Then topped with snap cap.

However the bolts for the spare tire didn't appear to be sealed all that well either so off the nuts and flat washers came and put proflex behind the flat washer and tightened back up again.

I love my scamp but honestly some of the finishing work Could have been done with more care.


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