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Old 09-06-2014, 10:05 AM   #21
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Name: Steve
Trailer: Escape 5.0 TA
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scamp screws

I would abandon the use of wood screws and use stainless, 10-24 machine screws and a locknut on the interior. Drill the correct sized hole for the new screw. I would retain the snap cap and its base. Use a stainless washer that fits the 10-24 screw at both ends. You will find that the washer fits perfectly inside the base for the snap cap. As always when penetrating the shell, use a small piece of butyl putty around the head of the screw as you refasten everything. Before you replace the snap cap, stuff more butyl puty around the head of the screw. On the interior I would consider using a fender washer over the rat fur. But this rat fur is not something I know. My Casita has foam backed carpet.
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Old 09-06-2014, 10:45 AM   #22
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My 5er is a "96 and it had screws in your described location that held the wood in place for the dinette. They were rusted and loose and I had to replace the the wood under the rat fur. The screw were not sealed when we did the repair which may have accounted for the moisture getting in. Hope you get a good answer from Scamp. Let us know.
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Old 09-06-2014, 12:50 PM   #23
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Thank you for all your replies. Had to get groceries this am and called scamp but no answer. Sometimes they answer on Saturdays and others not. Gonna put a meal in the crockpot and have a beer. Later if rain clears I'll come out and tap on the wood to listen for for and sponginess. I'm still going to replace these screws with stainless. Maybe put a little carpenters wood glue in the shank butyl on the hole and cover with proflex in addition to plastic washer of course. I'm running out of time and sure hope this is it. No screw should spin if right! Whether it fixes leak or not I'm still gonna change it out.


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Old 09-07-2014, 10:24 PM   #24
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Been there, done that. The screws hold the board that the kitchen table mounts to. My belly seam was leaking behind the board for the table, and rusted the screws and rotted the board.




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Old 09-08-2014, 12:13 AM   #25
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But what I'm asking is this factory spec? My trailer is a 2012. The screws are not holding up cabinets. Possibly for that wood block that dinette table anchors into on inside of trailer? One is corroded and spinning. I know there's bolts for spare tire but this seems odd to me.


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As we all know Scamp hasn't change much over the years as to how they put the trailers together and I know on my 1992 they did indeed use wood screws into the wood holding up the dinette table hardware and just put snap caps on them as they do with the rivets..... so far no issues with it..... 22 years old next week.
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Old 09-08-2014, 08:48 AM   #26
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Hmmm, For some reason I thought I had read that the belly band couldn't leak but that may explain the leak that has developed under the bench seat at the dinette on my driver side. A PO had calked the belly band with what looks like a silicone (Aarrgh) so I think that will be my next repair! Thanks.
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Old 09-08-2014, 11:54 AM   #27
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Hmmm, For some reason I thought I had read that the belly band couldn't leak but that may explain the leak that has developed under the bench seat at the dinette on my driver side. A PO had calked the belly band with what looks like a silicone (Aarrgh) so I think that will be my next repair! Thanks.
While leaks on the belly band can & do happen if the fiberglass connecting the two halves together cracks its not all that common of an event on Scamps, so it isn't the first place most people would look for a leak.

BTW I think it may be Scamp who puts the bead of calking around the top of the belly band - as its a common sight on most Scamps I have looked at regardless of age.
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Old 10-08-2014, 07:11 PM   #28
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In the end I believe it was the tail lights that were the source if my leak. In fact 99 percent sure. I still didn't like the look if those screws I took out that hold the glassed wood in for the dinette brackets. #8 by 1" zinc and were rusty about half way down thread. I replaced with SS and put butyl under plastic washer and proflex over screw head. Then topped with snap cap.

However the bolts for the spare tire didn't appear to be sealed all that well either so off the nuts and flat washers came and put proflex behind the flat washer and tightened back up again.

I love my scamp but honestly some of the finishing work Could have been done with more care.


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Old 10-08-2014, 07:24 PM   #29
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How do I start a topic? Where do I post?


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Old 10-08-2014, 07:26 PM   #30
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How do you post a topic


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Old 10-08-2014, 07:50 PM   #31
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From your iPhone go to forum you want to post to, click on 3 dots at top and drop down box will say new topic.


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Old 10-08-2014, 09:37 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by Janb313 View Post
Hmmm, For some reason I thought I had read that the belly band couldn't leak but that may explain the leak that has developed under the bench seat at the dinette on my driver side. A PO had calked the belly band with what looks like a silicone (Aarrgh) so I think that will be my next repair! Thanks.
The two halves are 'glassed together and should not leak any more than any other undisturbed place on the shell.
The silicone on the belly band is factory applied for a reason.
The belly band is aluminum. If water was allowed to flow under it, the result would be black streaks all down the bottom half of the trailer. The belly band is there to avoid the need to finish the joint between the two halves.

BTW; Contrary to popular opinion, silicone is good stuff... like many things, it is great when used properly and could be a disaster when not.
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Old 10-10-2014, 11:18 AM   #33
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BTW; Contrary to popular opinion, silicone is good stuff... like many things, it is great when used properly and could be a disaster when not.
I agree with this wholeheartedly. Silicone caulk or such may leave behind the silicone oil which is a bear to clean up, and pretty much nothing sticks to it. When cleaning up, use every solvent you can think of, and lots of elbow grease. To seal various hardware on my Scamp I like to use Lexel as a non-silicone alternative. It sticks to almost anything, but takes days to completely cure at room temperature.
Back on-topic: leaks are always hard to find, it is necessary to dry up the inside as well as possible, then start tracing when it rains, sometimes I resort to a garden hose.
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Old 10-10-2014, 12:43 PM   #34
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"BTW; Contrary to popular opinion, silicone is good stuff... like many things, it is great when used properly and could be a disaster when not.
Yes, and when used properly it is usually not being used on FGRV's. There are several 100 different silicone sealers/caulks on the shelf and maybe 3-5 are appropriate for RV use.

I have been repairing molded fiberglass & sheet fiberglass RV's for over ten years and, except for a very few and specialized marine products, have yet to find any silicone caulking products with more than 2-3 years life expectancy, especially when used on molded fiberglass, and whole lot of products that have failed within little as months either because of improper material, preparation or application.

For now I will stick with the butyl type RV putty tapes.



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