New Electric Brakes/hubs on '76 Trillium 1300 - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 01-02-2013, 01:51 PM   #29
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If I do go with the new axle and brakes, I'm leaning towards an Al-ko or Flexiride because both have replaceable spindles .
Although Flexiride axles with adjustable arms (which is not all of them) have replaceable spindles (by replacing the entire arm with spindle), North American Al-Ko axles do not, as far as I know.

I don't see spindle replacement as important anyway. It is the rubber, not the spindle, which degrades with time. Rebuildable Flexirides do have replaceable rubber cartridges, as well.
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Old 01-02-2013, 05:00 PM   #30
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Correct me if I'm wrong, but can't spindle replacement sometimes at least partly cure alignment difficulties that may arise down the road?

I have thought, perhaps wrongly, that this is one of the advantages of the Flexiride.

We all know that alignment on a torsion axle must be correct when installed since most allow no further adjustment. But I thought that on a Flexiride, late-arising alignment problems related to the spindle can be corrected by replacement of that component, without necessitating purchase of a whole new axle as is the case with Dexters.

Francesca
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Old 01-02-2013, 05:17 PM   #31
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Correct me if I'm wrong, but can't spindle replacement sometimes at least partly cure alignment difficulties that may arise down the road?

Francesca
If you smoke your wheel bearings bad enough, it ruins the spindle, too.
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Old 01-02-2013, 06:17 PM   #32
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Yes, if you completely destroy the bearings, you may damage the spindle and need to replace it. If you even minimally maintain the bearings, you'll never need a spindle replacement for this reason. I've never needed one on any vehicle.

The spindle will only affect alignment if it is bent, such as by massive overloading. If you can do that without damaging the rest of the axle assembly, then I suppose a replacement spindle (and arm) would be useful.
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Old 01-02-2013, 07:14 PM   #33
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The good thing about the Flexiride axle is that you can adjust the axle arm to fit your individual needs. If you desire more ground clearance you can move the spindle on the axle shaft and increase the down angle.

Also, you can vary the angle on the left and right side separately to make up the difference should your trailer lean to one side.

With the Dexter you are stuck with whatever you order from the factory and can't make adjustments to the angle.

Don't know about AL-KO, but, when I replaced my axle the Flexiride cost more than the same capacity Dexter.

Of course, all of this is a mute point until you determine if you need an axle or not.

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Old 01-02-2013, 08:10 PM   #34
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...and don't be disheartened, Walter, when you get the camper if you take a look at it and find something totally different than you've planned for. These old eggs are full of surprises. That's what makes them so darn much fun too!! It sounds like you will be ready and waiting to do whatever you need to get your camper road worthy.
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Old 01-02-2013, 08:23 PM   #35
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Don't know about AL-KO, but, when I replaced my axle the Flexiride cost more than the same capacity Dexter.
A local supplier here in Alberta ended up selling Dexter, Al-Ko, and Flexiride... in that order of increasing price., and (according to their technical rep) ride quality.
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Old 05-15-2013, 10:49 AM   #36
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There are no wars for me! I simply went to Princess and bought the smallest/lightest load spec electric kit they had. I came home with the 3500 lb 10" kit and matching 10" drums to replace the 10" hydraulics presently fitted. Since the bearings have the same number as the ones I replaced last summer, there should be no problem with axle size. My Q's are simple. How high/how did you jack up the trailer to get at things, and especially to do the wiring from the brake units to the installed connection inside the trailer fuse box?
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Old 05-15-2013, 11:11 AM   #37
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The brakes, running lights, and tail lights are all powered from the tow vehicle. They should not be fused in the trailer. Just wire them right back to the appropriate pin on the trailer plug.
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Old 05-15-2013, 01:42 PM   #38
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Well, I have a box with some fuses in it, under the settee, and all the trailer lights are wired into it, and from there back to the multi wired cable that goes back to the TV. There are some fuses in that box, a number of them, but only two or three are being used, for interior lighting and 12V outlets.There is a bus "wire" (brass strip) there that all the negatives attach to, including the ground from the TV. I guess I will make my ground connex for the brakes in there also. My battery is inside the trailer, next to the box, and its wiring goes into it also, of course. Guess I will have to run my break-away loop from there up to the break-away switch. But that wasn't my Q, which was simply how do you get your trailer high enough to get under it to do the wiring?
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Old 05-15-2013, 01:47 PM   #39
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......... But that wasn't my Q, which was simply how do you get your trailer high enough to get under it to do the wiring?
I'd jack up one end at a time using two jacks, supporting it on jack stands. You could also use ramps. How high to you need to lift it?
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Old 05-15-2013, 01:58 PM   #40
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But that wasn't my Q, which was simply how do you get your trailer high enough to get under it to do the wiring?
The only wiring that's under my Trillium is the electric brake connection. Access to that point is easy- I just put the tongue of the trailer on the floor, which lifts the rear enough to make the axle area accessible. A floor dolly is nice...

The rest of the trailer wiring is inside the trailer. Access to the point up front where the pigtail enters the trailer used to be a stand-on-your-head affair since it's under the front bench and in a corner to boot. I solved that problem when I installed outside access hatches on the trailer sides at all four corners....now I can just open the hatch and see the junction box.

Francesca
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Old 05-15-2013, 02:55 PM   #41
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Thomas, Francesca, thank you.
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Old 05-17-2013, 07:25 PM   #42
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Francesca, did you simply saw out the hole and use the sawn out rectangle as the door? I'd like to do this on the driver side, so we can get in there for often- used stuff without ripping up the settee each day. I see the utility of the hatch on the junction box side, but my junction box is a plastic one with four tiny Phillips screws in the corners, and I've reached the clumsy dropping small stuff age. . . .

Importantly, I attacked the hydraulics a couple of days ago, stripped all out, yuk! and removed the drums, backing plates and replaced same with the electric 10" 3500 lb electric kit. Everything fitted perfectly except for the castelated axle nuts, which were larger diameter than the 1500 lb axle, but the originals were perfectly usable, along with the washers and split pins.

YesterdayI went to Princess and bought #12 and #10 wire for the hook up. Reason for #10 white wire is that there was no #12, as hoards of trailer owners had come in and scoffed almost all the supplies, getting their trailers ready for the long week end! No #12 or #10 blue to be had and I had to buy 25 foot roll of black and blue tape band it.

This AM I measured and cut the rolls and got the Driver side wires joined at the backing plate, and one of the other side, and ran the wires from the centre of the runs forward, using the holes in the frame centre previously occupied by the hydraulic line, but of course, it started to rain, and of course, the water running down the drive comes right under the Trillium, and I was very wet from neck to bum, soaking, it was like a ford crossing, and had to quit. One day of no rain should see the job finished. Ha ha! I'll report on that next time.
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