New Floor for the Scamp - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 12-08-2018, 05:15 PM   #15
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Name: Rob
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With the two sections of floor glued and glassed in place ...and the crack over the door repaired.. I rolled the frame back under the trailer and checked the fit. Not bad.. It's nice to get rid of the cradle.. it's really in the way.. The front and rear floors are enough to support the body.. I'm rolling on old 12" rims.. no tires.. This way the body doesn't need much lift..

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This is the easy way to construct the lower floor. and to make sure everything aligns proper.

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also the front to back position is proper too.
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Old 12-08-2018, 05:31 PM   #16
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I assume that the frame has been reinforced in the bends at the front.
If nit you should do that before you get the shell mounted on the frame.
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Old 12-08-2018, 05:53 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by redbarron55 View Post
I assume that the frame has been reinforced in the bends at the front.
If nit you should do that before you get the shell mounted on the frame.

Yes. Did not leave anything to chance.. I know the weak parts of these frames.. And I see folks all the time replacing the axle and sticking the frame back under with out addressing the weak spots.. Just future trouble waiting to happen.
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Old 01-05-2019, 10:26 PM   #18
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I wish I knew more of how the Casita's of that vintage were constructed. I thought they were a two piece construction. Floor and bottom half all one piece. ?? Is this true? I was lucky that the trailer was not used after the floor was mostly cut out.. So by supporting it as I did from the middle seam.. everything came into alignment.
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Old 01-06-2019, 01:12 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by robeye View Post
I wish I knew more of how the Casita's of that vintage were constructed. I thought they were a two piece construction. Floor and bottom half all one piece. ?? Is this true? I was lucky that the trailer was not used after the floor was mostly cut out.. So by supporting it as I did from the middle seam.. everything came into alignment.
indeed, casitas are made from two half shells, joined at the waist seam.

those cracks in cdwebb's pictures make it look like that trailer took some serious abuse sufficient to cave in the side walls near the floor around the frame tunnels.
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Old 01-06-2019, 01:18 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by cdwebb View Post
Rob (or whoever may see this and offer advice), I purchased a 17' 2003 Casita a few months ago that had some "mysterious" damage to the shell directly over the tongue channel, both sides. See the attached pic. At the time I had no idea what the deal was and asked here for someone to explain.
After reading your opening post and getting into the demo here, it sounds like I may be dealing with the same thing that you're describing. First of all, there has obviously been some floor repair and partial replacement on this one before I got it, and very amateurish at that. But from what I'm finding, I have an OSB floor that's coming apart, attached ONLY to the trailer frame. No attachment to the exterior wall or anywhere else. It seems pretty apparent that the weight of the shell has caused the outer edges of the FG floor to fall away from the OSB floor at any point not supported by the trailer frame. Bouncing down the road in this shape did the rest.
My intention is to go back with marine grade plywood flooring. but I'm wondering if the frame you built and pictured earlier in the thread was to remedy the same sagging shell edges that I'm facing? Is fiberglassing the ply flooring to the wall (once raised back into place) something that should be done, and if so, is that all I should have to do? I'm also concerned that the glass shell may have been in this shape long enough that trying to push it back up into place may damage it. Did you experience trouble bringing the shell back to shape?
I'm including a pic I just took of the door threshold area that kinda shows how the wall weight seems to have pushed the FG floor down and away from the ply floor.
David, sure does sound like a Mickey Mouse fix but the shell does have to be tabbed on to the top of the floor to keep the shell from dropping like yours has. Curious if you've checked out the rear floor to see if it has been "repaired". If the rear is still good to go the fix may not be to difficult. FG can be moved back to the normal shape. Many roofs have been brought back to normal with inside braces/jacks a little at a time although warm weather really helps. A cradle like Rob built should allow you to lift the shell enough for the correct height to reshape/glass the shells lower front lip. Then replace the floor and glass in the tabbing. Without that tabbing it wouldn't make any difference if it's OSB or Marine ply from dropping again.
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Old 01-06-2019, 08:36 AM   #21
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Not worried about leaks does not equal wonít have leaks. Itís good to not worry about stuff. But leaks do happen.

Molded FG trailer floors tend to rot from the inside out.

IMHO trailer mfrs continue to use OSB in trailer floors for one reason only: its cheap. OSB is a good product for sub flooring until it rots. There are other choices out there that will never rot and only add a few hundred $$ to the trailer price.
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Old 01-06-2019, 02:56 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by thrifty bill View Post
IMHO trailer mfrs continue to use OSB in trailer floors for one reason only: its cheap. OSB is a good product for sub flooring until it rots. There are other choices out there that will never rot and only add a few hundred $$ to the trailer price.
OSB also has a high strength to weight ratio, and is quite stiff so the floor doesn't flex when you walk on it...

what alternative sub-flooring would you suggest as an alternative?
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Old 01-06-2019, 03:41 PM   #23
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If I was a manufacturer, I'd do a lot of research on various composite materials.

This one is an example, company owned by the same company that owns Dicor:

I'd also look at Coosa board.

http://www.vixencomposites.com/catal...ctural-panels/
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Old 01-07-2019, 01:09 AM   #24
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The more I tear into, the more issues I see. Almost every rivet hole has spider cracks in the gel coat. Somebody couldn't get things back right when they re-assembled it before, so they just drilled another hole and siliconed the first.
I was not really wanting to tear the carpeting off the walls, but I'm beginning to wonder if I can avoid it. Not sure I can do a proper job with the rivet hole patching without it.

Rob, if you had rather I not junk your thread up, PM me or something. Let me know!!
Not adding the tabbing sure caused problems. Think it's JB Weld that makes a white filler that will take care of the holes from the outside. Any rivets you drill out can be pushed in and to the side of the hole, you'll never see/feel them. FWIW, the carpet in my '06 SD is REALLY glued on, I wouldn't want to pull it off either. Can't tell from the pics, is there a floor to ceiling closet up front?

You may want to start a new thread for your repairs as we have kind of hijacked Robs thread . Maybe a Mod can move these posts to it.
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Old 01-07-2019, 07:33 AM   #25
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I agree. It is not fair to the OP. I have comments regarding this as I have resurrected an old Casita destined for the landfill. I have resisted due to the hijack issue. It is very easy to start a new thread.
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Old 01-07-2019, 01:30 PM   #26
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At least on the Scamp the lower floor add little or no support to the shell.
The lower floor is ... just a floor.
The floor in the front and rear is important, however. The bonding of the floor to the shell is all that holds the shell in place. The sides (from the frame rails to the shell) add some very small support as they are not really solid enough for the addition of support. (and are only attached to the frame rails with a few sheetmetal screws.
The front and rear supply almost all of the strength as they sit on top of the frame and are the primary support.
Personally the problem with OSB is that is has a lot of glue and water easily penetrates the substrate and rots.
Plywood will also rot and the real problem is that Scamp waterproofs the bottom and not the top and water will find a way in and it WILL rot the wood.
In my opinion if you are going to the trouble of replacing the floor you should fiberglass the top of the floor and attach that floor with "tabbing" solidly all the way around the shell.
In my opinion there should also be some additional support on the sides to add strength to the shell all along the sides to prevent the dreaded door sag and distortion of the shell due to no meaningful support all along the sides. The door side is even more weakened by the door gap.
Replace the floor, Fiberglass the floor to keep the water out of the wood. (By the way Polyester resin is not very good at maintaining a seal on the wood and if you look at the millions of the fiberglass boats with rotten wood stringers and transoms you will see what I mean.)
ALL trailers will eventually leak from somewhere (even new one) and if that water sits on the floor it will rot if it can get to the wood.
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Old 01-15-2019, 11:01 AM   #27
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Lot's of opinions on floors.. Hmm Well after a break over the holidays.. I'm back at it. Carefully reconstructing the floor... piece by piece. Gluing and using SS wood screws. The small brackets are to keep things aligned tilll the under side is glassed.

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Old 01-27-2019, 07:45 PM   #28
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Name: Agustin
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Rob,
So I started replacing my floors over the summer, but I got a lot ahead of myself & completely removed the entire floor, without getting a layout of the floor. So now, I have a shell that sits on the frame & moves when I try to capture proper shape of floor. Not sure if you removed the entire floor or where smart enough to only remove one at a time. Any advice?
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