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11-18-2017, 04:43 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Name: Sam
Trailer: Scamp
Arizona
Posts: 6
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new fridge roof vent trouble fitting
I am replacing my roof vent because the old one was cracking and deteriorating. The new vent I got from scamp comes in two pieces (RM2410, RM2610). The problem is that the original vent was at the very edge of the trailer's roof where it starts to curve down the outer wall. The new vent has a flat base and so it does not sit flush against the curved fiberglass. I tried forcing it but it broke and I had to order a second one. I guess my best bet is to heat it up and try and reform it so the base is curved. Has anyone run into this issue? How did you remedy it?
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11-18-2017, 05:58 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Trailer: Scamp
Posts: 7,056
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samandallison
I am replacing my roof vent because the old one was cracking and deteriorating. The new vent I got from scamp comes in two pieces (RM2410, RM2610). The problem is that the original vent was at the very edge of the trailer's roof where it starts to curve down the outer wall. The new vent has a flat base and so it does not sit flush against the curved fiberglass. I tried forcing it but it broke and I had to order a second one. I guess my best bet is to heat it up and try and reform it so the base is curved. Has anyone run into this issue? How did you remedy it?
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As is often the best thing to do, call Scamp and ask them how they manage.
__________________
Byron & Anne enjoying the everyday Saturday thing.
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11-18-2017, 07:06 PM
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#3
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Junior Member
Name: Sam
Trailer: Scamp
Arizona
Posts: 6
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Yeah, I have tried this. The guy on the other end was no help. He couldn't even tell me what type of plastic it was made of. I have not had good experiences with them in general. I ordered a part from them 7 months ago and I have yet to see it.
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11-19-2017, 02:14 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Trailer: Scamp
Posts: 7,056
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samandallison
Yeah, I have tried this. The guy on the other end was no help. He couldn't even tell me what type of plastic it was made of. I have not had good experiences with them in general. I ordered a part from them 7 months ago and I have yet to see it.
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Many of us have had excellent customer service from Scamp. Maybe the trick is ask for one of Evelands, Micah or Kent. Eveland family are the owners.
I found the guy in the parts department most helpful and anything I've ordered comes fast. I don't order using the internet only by phone. 12 Years ago when I bought my trailer they didn't have a web site or email. All business was done in person or by phone, hence my suggestion is to "call' them.
__________________
Byron & Anne enjoying the everyday Saturday thing.
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11-19-2017, 07:56 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Name: Tom
Trailer: none
Minnesota
Posts: 250
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I had the same problem, cracked the new base when installing. I gave up and reinstalled old base and used new cover. If I did it again maybe heating and forming would work, or what I was thinking building up outside edge on camper to make base sit more level, that is if you don't get a satisfactory answer on how scamp installed a straight piece of plastic on a curved roof?
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11-19-2017, 09:23 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Name: Z
Trailer: Sasquatch
Montana
Posts: 2,556
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I feel like I ran into the same thing with my Bigfoot. I stacked more butyl tape under the area where the roof started curving down, and tightened the screws as much as I could to get the plastic to bend down, without breaking it. Then I used Dicor over that. So while it's not flush, it is leak proof. Warming the plastic, or at least doing this on a hot summer day sure couldn't hurt...
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11-19-2017, 12:16 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Name: Jack L
Trailer: Sold the Bigfoot 17-Looking for a new one
Washington
Posts: 1,561
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As Zach suggested, I have also used multiple layers of butyl tape when resealing a window frame where there was a slight curve in the fiberglass. It worked well.
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11-19-2017, 12:48 PM
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#8
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Junior Member
Name: Sam
Trailer: Scamp
Arizona
Posts: 6
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Ya I have also tried double and triple up on the butyl tape but even then there is quite a big gap and my rivet still wont even contact the fiberglass.
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11-19-2017, 12:52 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Name: Jack L
Trailer: Sold the Bigfoot 17-Looking for a new one
Washington
Posts: 1,561
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Three layers would be about the maximum I would be comfortable with.
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11-19-2017, 07:40 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Name: Z
Trailer: Sasquatch
Montana
Posts: 2,556
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Wow, yeah that's a big gap. Hopefully somebody here or at Scamp can tell you how they made it work.
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11-20-2017, 07:56 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Trailer: Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel
Posts: 1,861
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PVC trim board
I run into this curve issue installing access hatches. Casita also has this issue with their water heater installation. I use white PVC trim boards to make fillers. The PVC can be cut and shaped with regular wood working tools to fill the space and fit the curve. The corners if required can be glued or screwed together if needed. Then use butyl tape on either mounting side of the PVC filler. You can usually get some small pieces from a house construction site. If you have to buy some it comes in 10 ft. pieces.
Eddie
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11-20-2017, 08:30 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Name: Z
Trailer: Sasquatch
Montana
Posts: 2,556
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That sounds like a good method.
Still makes me wonder how Scamp or the other trailers get it done without any of these methods, though...
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11-20-2017, 09:06 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Name: Jack L
Trailer: Sold the Bigfoot 17-Looking for a new one
Washington
Posts: 1,561
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eddie Longest
I run into this curve issue installing access hatches. Casita also has this issue with their water heater installation. I use white PVC trim boards to make fillers. The PVC can be cut and shaped with regular wood working tools to fill the space and fit the curve. The corners if required can be glued or screwed together if needed. Then use butyl tape on either mounting side of the PVC filler. You can usually get some small pieces from a house construction site. If you have to buy some it comes in 10 ft. pieces.
Eddie
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Great idea. I wonder if someone sells a premade piece of fiberglass material that could be used this way.
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11-29-2017, 07:07 PM
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#14
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Junior Member
Name: Sam
Trailer: Scamp
Arizona
Posts: 6
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SUCCESS! The fridge roof vent is installed, almost. It still needs lap sealant, but the hard part is done. The trick to this repair is heat but not too much. First I tried to use a propane jobsite heater but it was too hot and the edges of the plastic started melting and the overall playability was not really effected. I talked to this guy who specializes in plastic welding and forming. From my description he didn't think that these roof vents are made of the type that can be welded. I still have yet to find out what type of plastic these vents are made of. He suggested that I use a heat gun which is like a hair dryer on steroids. I borrowed one from a neighbor, I used three layers of butyl tape but in hindsight two would have been enough. The more tape you use the harder it is to get that rivet to get as deep as it needs to. I started with the two opposite ones on the short side of the vent. Then, while under the tarp that is keeping water out. I went to town heating that vent up. I heated then drilled then heated then riveted, continued going from opposing sides each time until they were all popped. Don't try it without a heat gun or sure as shooting the vent will crack.
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11-29-2017, 07:31 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Name: Z
Trailer: Sasquatch
Montana
Posts: 2,556
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Great! One more reason to add a heat gun to my want-list.
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