New Heater: Condensation problems - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 02-22-2011, 03:47 PM   #15
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With 5 min cycle time for total air volumes exchange it seems that the water build-up should be unlikely. Caframo Ecofan advertises air flow up to 100 CFM most likely at the optimum conditions. If temperature is not optimum and ducting has leaks perhaps you are not exchanging air at 100 CFM but much less. I would not be surprise if your Ecofan is exchanging air within a few CFM, sufficiently low to have water build-up issue.
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Old 02-22-2011, 05:18 PM   #16
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George said: I think that a gravity heater burnerís intake and exhaust are external.

That is true. It had a chimney inside a chimney. One took in fresh air and the other was the exhaust. If it did not do that, you would have had a gas chamber and you would have monoxide yourself.

Your CAT heater burns at a better combustion level thus non-vented HOWEVER it can deplete ALL The Oxygen and suffocate you. Not Monoxide poisoning but the same results (DEAD).

Make sure any combustion (Fuel Burning) heater has a low oxygen shut off or don't use it.
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Old 02-22-2011, 06:01 PM   #17
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I'm pretty sure I'm getting maximum efficiency from the Ecofan.
Via an outside duct, it draws fresh (also wet?) air into the trailer and blows toward the room. I'm able to keep it at top speed even on low heat setting by concentrating (a) the heat at the base and (b) the incoming cooler air at the fins. The effect is increased by the presence of an aluminum barrier between these two parts of the fan which prevents rising heat from warming the fins. Outgoing air openings: 100 cu. in. m/l.
And I still get plenty of heat!
I think the basic problem is the lack of real insulation in the trailer. Those cold walls are magnets for water vapor. Since all the moisture produced by combustion (and people) collects in the room it's likely condensing before it has a chance to escape via the vents and windows.
Figuring out how to insulate the trailer seems a lot more complicated to me than eliminating a moisture source by isolating the lit surface behind a heat-conductive barrier.
If I move my converter, the whole shootin' match will fit fully inside the compartment beneath the closet, and I'd provide intake/ output venting there.
Isn't that a little like a heat exchanger?

Thanks!

P.S.
I'll bet it's no coincidence that at least five people in this thread (including me) are Pacific Northwesterners. Who knows more about The Dreaded Damp than us Mossbacks???
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Old 02-22-2011, 06:10 PM   #18
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Catalytic heaters will generate CO at low oxygen level. See the chart from this study http://www.cpsc.gov/library/foia/foia05/os/co03.pdf
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Old 02-22-2011, 06:40 PM   #19
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Platinum Cat makes fully vented catalytic heaters.

Welcome Page

They aren't inexpensive, and they do draw 6 watts of power when running.

Regards,

Matt
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Old 02-22-2011, 07:42 PM   #20
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Platinum Cat makes fully vented catalytic heaters.

Welcome Page

They aren't inexpensive, and they do draw 6 watts of power when running.

Regards,

Matt
My conversion math stinks so does 6 watts divided by 12 volts equal .5 amps?..... If so that nice and vented to boot.
does anybody know the price on the 3P-12 or the 6P12?____ Can't find a price list anywhere
Joe
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Old 02-22-2011, 08:43 PM   #21
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Catalytic heaters will generate CO at low oxygen level. See the chart from this study http://www.cpsc.gov/library/foia/foia05/os/co03.pdf
George.
Yes.

I know.

I am supplying plenty of oxygen.

More, in fact, than I, the heater, and all of my relatives, friends, and hangers on need, even should they all cram themselves into my 14 ft. trailer and draw a single, mighty breath ALL AT THE SAME TIME.

There's enough oxygen in the trailer to sustain a Congressional Filibuster.

An "Elegant Sufficiency", as the man said.

Any advice about the water vapor?
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Old 02-22-2011, 10:03 PM   #22
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Francesca,
You made the point; I envision that conducting senate filibuster sessions in your trailer would greatly benefit our national interests; especially now; with an oxygen depletion hole hovering over Washington DC.
Regarding the pesky water vapor you could either eliminate combustion gases from your trailer or use a chemical dryer such as this Amazon.com: DampRid FG50T Hi-Capacity Moisture Absorber, 4-Pound Tub: Home Improvement.
Best of luck,
George.
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Old 02-23-2011, 10:47 AM   #23
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Thanks!
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Old 02-24-2011, 08:37 PM   #24
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My conversion math stinks so does 6 watts divided by 12 volts equal .5 amps?..... If so that nice and vented to boot.
does anybody know the price on the 3P-12 or the 6P12?____ Can't find a price list anywhere
Joe
Yeah you have to email them or call. Then they send you some prices and swear you to Internet secrecy. Heck of a way to do business.

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Old 02-24-2011, 10:32 PM   #25
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I'm pretty sure I'm getting maximum efficiency from the Ecofan.

P.S.
I'll bet it's no coincidence that at least five people in this thread (including me) are Pacific Northwesterners. Who knows more about The Dreaded Damp than us Mossbacks???
Ya gotta be talking about the Pacifc NorthWET? Winter or cold weather camping can be a PITA in a one season molded fiberglass trailer. Unfortunately the cure is found in moving the air. No cooking pasta inside the trailer either! Breathing in and out is enough to cause condensation on the single pane windows, which isn't a real problem with windows that are glass and have a drip rim built in to the frame. It can be a HUGE problem (particularly in Scamps and Bolers) with one piece plexiglass windows front and back. The thought of condensation has never prevented me from camping in the cold/wet, but if I ever order a new Escape... it's gonna have double-pane windows!
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Old 02-24-2011, 10:57 PM   #26
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Ya gotta be talking about the Pacifc NorthWET? Winter or cold weather camping can be a PITA in a one season molded fiberglass trailer. Unfortunately the cure is found in moving the air. No cooking pasta inside the trailer either! Breathing in and out is enough to cause condensation on the single pane windows, which isn't a real problem with windows that are glass and have a drip rim built in to the frame. It can be a HUGE problem (particularly in Scamps and Bolers) with one piece plexiglass windows front and back. The thought of condensation has never prevented me from camping in the cold/wet, but if I ever order a new Escape... it's gonna have double-pane windows!
Only ONE season "molded"??? I'm looking at FOUR seasons molded if I don't figure this out!
Portable Mushroom Farm, anyone?
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Old 02-26-2011, 08:59 PM   #27
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I'm sorry, but even with your senate filibuster, if you are getting that much condensation, I think you just are not venting sufficiently.

Just on a thought, I checked out dehumidifiers at

http://www.simplydehumidifiers.com/D...specifications

This one is 525 Watts. Not enough to be a heater, actually about 1/3 the power of our little electric space heater which cost $19.95. Of course both these appliances require regular 120VAC wall power.
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Old 02-27-2011, 10:22 PM   #28
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I'm sorry, but even with your senate filibuster, if you are getting that much condensation, I think you just are not venting sufficiently.

Just on a thought, I checked out dehumidifiers at

DEP400EW EdgeStar Portable Dehumidifier - 40 Pint Capacity

This one is 525 Watts. Not enough to be a heater, actually about 1/3 the power of our little electric space heater which cost $19.95. Of course both these appliances require regular 120VAC wall power.
Thanks, but I rarely camp where there's power, and when I do I use electric heat. Gotta get my money's worth! I'm a confirmed boondocker, and don't carry a generator, either. The only power draw in my rig is the lights, and if I'm out long enough to kill the battery I go to bed early.
I'm leaving in about two weeks for the Channeled Scablands of Eastern Washington, where the climate is pretty much either boiling hot or freezing cold. Bet you can guess which of those conditions I'll encounter in early March. Of course, it'll be tempered a bit by the howling gale that passes for a spring breeze over there, so I guess I'll have nothing to complain about.
This thread has really helped me to focus on my moisture problem, which I think I'm getting a handle on. We're at the end of a cold snap over here, and I took advantage of the 15 degree low the other night by spending a "test night" in the trailer just a few feet from my nice warm house.
I made some minor adjustments as to how and where the vents are located, but more importantly, I paid attention to where the wet was accumulating. It isn't so much on the windows,which is one of the things that has puzzled me. It's the WALLS that have been a problem, since anything that touches them (bedding, clothes etc.) gets wet.
And guess what? It turns out that I had it backwards.
The bedding isn't touching the wet wall. It's CAUSING the wet wall.
What I observed was that every place where cushions, clothing- anything with insulating properties- touch the walls, it cools them to the point that the airborne moisture condenses there.
I've made insulated spots with their vapor barriers on the wrong side. Why should I be surprised when they work exactly as "designed"? The real answer to my problem is to properly insulate the walls, which I won't have time to do before I leave. But you can bet that I'll be monitoring the soft good contacts in the trailer while I'm out.

Thanks for the help!
P.S.
It turns out that Congress breathes nothing but money, so I guess I'll have to come up with a better metaphor.....
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