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Old 09-14-2012, 05:42 AM   #81
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Originally Posted by Pam Garlow View Post
.......... Is that the black rubber stuff that goes around the edge of the hole and the window gets put into? I assume the lock strip is what goes into the escape window on the driver side? ..............

You got it, except both sides have a locking strip. One design uses a separate piece like UHaul uses for an escape hatch. A second design has the locking strip hinged so that it gets folded into locking position. Mine had a third design where a flat locking strip was glued in.

When I redid my windows, I chose to use the separate removable strip on both sides.

Ignore the dimensions, I'm trying to show the cross sectional shape.

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Old 09-14-2012, 05:44 AM   #82
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.. When I get a window installed I'll post the results.
Great!

I hope you will add your experience to the "UHaul Side Windows" thread that has captured the collective experience.
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Old 09-14-2012, 06:37 AM   #83
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Oh No, I didn't see that weatherstrip with the dimensions of the fold in type you're showing there Tom. My Uhaul has that type on the curb side window but it is 3/16" for the wall side, and 1/4" for the window side, but the lip on the window that sets in the rubber measures 3/16", so maybe that would have been a better choice to buy. But then I couldn't make one window an "escape" window, as if I can't make it to the door. But I suppose there may be some situation where I can't get out the door, like the trailer is on it's side, or there's an angry bear ripping the door off! Anyway I started an explanation to Pam but the site went down and it was lost, and Tom's answer about says it all. Other than that I suggest to Pam if you're concerned about doing it yourself, ask at a glass shop that does auto glass, it'll be a simple job for them. Try to have a helper if you do it yourself. Be careful to cut the rubber to the right length, don't do a "I cut it twice and it's still too short". Pam, sorry I'm so far away or I'd do it for you, would you like a road trip to the Northeast. We've had people from California and Oregon, and even Hawaii at our teardrop gathering in the Adirondacks so it's doable!!! Otherwise, don't worry, it's not that complicated, take your time, look it over, and you'll do just fine. Bob
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Old 09-14-2012, 06:52 AM   #84
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..........But then I couldn't make one window an "escape" window, as if I can't make it to the door. .......Bob
I think that is a good call. Better to err on the side of safety. If / when I remount my side window, I think I'll add some butyl putty to the rubber strip to ensure sealing. My luck with just depending on the rubber tension has been zero for two.
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Old 09-14-2012, 12:03 PM   #85
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My windows came today, look great, only a couple paint chips. I got a left and a right. One difference I noticed is that my old windows have two drain slots and these new windows have four. I've ordered the AS1456 weatherstrip which is 3/16 groove on one side, 1/4" on the other. I'll report on how that works out if any of you want to know before placing an order. I ordered the AS789B lockstrip to go with it. I'm still amazed at how this all worked out!! Wish it had been sooner before I spent all that time and money installing a Scamp window but Oh Well, so it is.
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Old 09-14-2012, 05:50 PM   #86
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Another Happy Camper!

My windows arrived in the ' re-entry ' capsule in perfect condition! I can't recall ever receiving something so well marked ( glass and sensitive instruments! ) and packaged. Nice job by the Surplus Sales folks! I intend to call them and thank them for that!

The windows are also in individually plastic sealed factory packaging, it appears. They only have two drain holes each, as my originals, so there must be some variations even among these NOS windows. Both have the Uhaul stampings, etc. I hope you all have the same good results with your shipments!!!
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Old 09-14-2012, 06:44 PM   #87
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............ They only have two drain holes each, as my originals,..........
Made me look. The window that I bought has four drain holes. Must have been a late design change. On my old windows, I added extra drain holes near the corners as I noted that when it was not stored level, the water could overtop the channel divider before it drained out the square drain holes.

I like to store the trailer nose up so that any water that might get inside drains out the drain hole I added at the back.
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Old 09-14-2012, 06:53 PM   #88
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You think that packaging is good, the windows that I bought from Scamp came in a wood box, glued and stapled shut, and the windows wrapped in some stuff that looked like a fuzzy rug. But the surplus people did a real good job too, my windows also in plastic wrap, styrofoam sheets, and cardboard around it all. I wonder if the 4 drain hole ones are a new improved version. Now I'm waiting for the new weatherstrip to come. I'm only installing the driver side window for now since I have the new Scamp window on the curb side.
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Old 09-14-2012, 06:57 PM   #89
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Mine came today too. wow, FAST delivery and looks very well packed. (at least nothign is rattling, a good sign). Havent' taken them out of the box yet. Now the head-scratching begins, how to install....
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Old 09-14-2012, 07:15 PM   #90
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Mine came today too. wow, FAST delivery and looks very well packed. (at least nothign is rattling, a good sign). Havent' taken them out of the box yet. Now the head-scratching begins, how to install....
All I can say is that the installation tool makes a world of difference in the ease of installation of the locking strip, but it is a two person job..
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Old 09-14-2012, 07:36 PM   #91
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Originally Posted by Thomas G. View Post
Made me look. The window that I bought has four drain holes. Must have been a late design change. On my old windows, I added extra drain holes near the corners as I noted that when it was not stored level, the water could overtop the channel divider before it drained out the square drain holes.

I like to store the trailer nose up so that any water that might get inside drains out the drain hole I added at the back.
Ah Ha, I might be dremeling my way to some xtra drain holes, as well...
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Old 09-14-2012, 07:54 PM   #92
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Ah Ha, I might be dremeling my way to some xtra drain holes, as well...
I definitely recommend one in the floor. I installed a soffit plug with screen to keep the critters out, though.
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Old 09-15-2012, 06:55 AM   #93
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windows

My windows arrived last evening. Super packeged with four weep holes. A little scrape of paint in a minor spot. I purchased a Left and a Right. I don't have the slightest idea as to installing them. I also purchased from a different source, a Lisle tool. Hope it helps. The latches work great and window slides nicely. This is a fantastic find and I am very grateful to those who shared information. Mike
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Old 09-15-2012, 01:39 PM   #94
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Weep holes

The repair manual shows only two weep holes in the side windows so I checked into this a little more...

The date of manufacture of my CT with two weep holes is 10/85
and the one built on 5/85 has 4 weep holes! Go figure...
Both were made in Youngstown, Ohio. . I have decided to not put additional
weep holes in as the two weep holes are at the end of the frames rather than the middle so drainage still occurs, regardless...

Now, the weep hole covers are another question! They are the same part number for all of the windows. Apparently they deteriorated rapidly being plastic and were only glued on. Some replacements made out of nylon or something more durable would be nice. I can see how they would help to keep the water flowing one way (out) if in steady or driving rains...IF I find something I'll pass it on.
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Old 09-15-2012, 03:17 PM   #95
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Mike, if you want to return the tool you can use mine. New weatherstrip is on the way.
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Old 09-15-2012, 04:55 PM   #96
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I'm grateful too

Quote:
Originally Posted by h.mike View Post
My windows arrived last evening. Super packeged with four weep holes. A little scrape of paint in a minor spot. I purchased a Left and a Right. I don't have the slightest idea as to installing them. I also purchased from a different source, a Lisle tool. Hope it helps. The latches work great and window slides nicely. This is a fantastic find and I am very grateful to those who shared information. Mike
Mr. H Mike,
I am grateful, too. Also, to you for the battery box cover, battery meter and bunk hinge you graciously gave me!! I'm really glad you got in on this good deal!!
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Old 09-17-2012, 08:47 AM   #97
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Originally Posted by Thomas G. View Post
I think that is a good call. Better to err on the side of safety. If / when I remount my side window, I think I'll add some butyl putty to the rubber strip to ensure sealing. My luck with just depending on the rubber tension has been zero for two.
Tom: been there tried that and could not make it work on my VT. Enlisted my brother who spent 3 years lacing windshields into school buses as my expert helper. turns out fiberglass is way different than metal in how it accepts additional sealants and the rubber seal strip. He convinced me that Silicone seal was the way to go. Turns out it just acts like grease on fiberglass. After an hour I cut another piece off the 50 foot roll cleaned off the silicon put a butyl strip around the outside edge and tried again. well the butyl gets forced into the rubber channel even if you put the lip over it before you try to pull the inner lip over the edge and it wont seat, push one side in the other pops out. two hours later and my expert is really frustrated. Cut off another piece just a little longer than needed clean the fiber glass run a rope around the channel so that it crosses opposite the butted end, pull tight , cut the ends flat to make a very tight seal, put the non butted end in first, carefully pull the rope out evenly from the crossed end so that it pulls the edge of the channel out over the fiberglass lip and it pops in . he held the outside and I laced the inside with the lock strip and special tool I got from perfect fit. Took about 10 minutes. The next week I used a hose on it and had some weeping, so I Used the dreaded Silicone in the form of windshield sealer which is a little thinner. Used a screw driver to open up the area between the rubber and fiberglass and put a small bead all around the outside and at the butt joint of the rubber. No leaks since.
Just my experiences, others may be more successful.
Michael J.
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Old 09-17-2012, 08:52 AM   #98
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Tom: been there tried that and could not make it work on my VT. Enlisted my brother who spent 3 years lacing windshields into school buses as my expert helper. turns out fiberglass is way different than metal in how it accepts additional sealants and the rubber seal strip. He convinced me that Silicone seal was the way to go. Turns out it just acts like grease on fiberglass. After an hour I cut another piece off the 50 foot roll cleaned off the silicon put a butyl strip around the outside edge and tried again. well the butyl gets forced into the rubber channel even if you put the lip over it before you try to pull the inner lip over the edge and it wont seat, push one side in the other pops out. two hours later and my expert is really frustrated. Cut off another piece just a little longer than needed clean the fiber glass run a rope around the channel so that it crosses opposite the butted end, pull tight , cut the ends flat to make a very tight seal, put the non butted end in first, carefully pull the rope out evenly from the crossed end so that it pulls the edge of the channel out over the fiberglass lip and it pops in . he held the outside and I laced the inside with the lock strip and special tool I got from perfect fit. Took about 10 minutes. The next week I used a hose on it and had some weeping, so I Used the dreaded Silicone in the form of windshield sealer which is a little thinner. Used a screw driver to open up the area between the rubber and fiberglass and put a small bead all around the outside and at the butt joint of the rubber. No leaks since.
Just my experiences, others may be more successful.
Michael J.
Thanks, Mike. Nothing like the word of experience. This at least confirms my skepticism that the rubber H seal provides a reliable sealing function with no additional sealants. I may try some black RTV, but don't let Donna know.
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Old 09-17-2012, 09:31 AM   #99
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Thanks, Mike. Nothing like the word of experience. This at least confirms my skepticism that the rubber H seal provides a reliable sealing function with no additional sealants. I may try some black RTV, but don't let Donna know.
I know, We will just keep it on a "need to know" basis. Actually U haul recommends it in their repair manual so that must make it legal. I was just glad I bought 50 ft as the first cut was about 1/4" short. It would have worked but I would have had more caulking to do.
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Old 09-17-2012, 07:18 PM   #100
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.... I may try some black RTV, but don't let Donna know.
I don't care what you use. Just don't come anywhere near MY trailer with anything silicone based... that Devil's GOOP!
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