New old stock uhaul side windows - Page 8 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 09-17-2012, 10:31 AM   #99
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Thanks, Mike. Nothing like the word of experience. This at least confirms my skepticism that the rubber H seal provides a reliable sealing function with no additional sealants. I may try some black RTV, but don't let Donna know.
I know, We will just keep it on a "need to know" basis. Actually U haul recommends it in their repair manual so that must make it legal. I was just glad I bought 50 ft as the first cut was about 1/4" short. It would have worked but I would have had more caulking to do.
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Old 09-17-2012, 08:18 PM   #100
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.... I may try some black RTV, but don't let Donna know.
I don't care what you use. Just don't come anywhere near MY trailer with anything silicone based... that Devil's GOOP!
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Old 09-17-2012, 09:19 PM   #101
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My drivers side window finally arrived today. I appreciated the company calling me after I had placed my order to confirm what I wanted. I'd placed mine before the Left/Right discussion. Now I'll wait to hear how some of the others installs go before I attempt it.

I finally have the plexiglass that the PO installed fixed so it's not leaking (thanks to a bit of black roofing sealant Loctite PL 10 fl. oz. Black Polyurethane Roof and Flashing Sealant 1402254 at The Home Depot) I'm going to have to order new weatherstripping anyways since the existing one is in pretty bad shape.
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Old 09-19-2012, 07:19 PM   #102
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Ugh, information overload here... Could one of you gracious gentlemen give me a shopping list of what I need to install the two windows (driver and passenger), one of which will have the 'pull tag' weatherstripping. Also any calk and that tool thingie. I have two more camping trips and then I can get to work on it later in Oct/Nov. Much Thanks!
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Old 09-19-2012, 07:45 PM   #103
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I'm using a different weatherstrip than what has been previously recommended, and it hasn't arrived here yet so I can't give you a report on that yet. You wil need about 15 feet of it total plus the lockstrip. You should be able to get the tool local. I'm not planning on using any sealer on the wall side of the weatherstrip, but may on the window side because that groove is wider than the edge of the window frame. I hope to get in touch with the glass guy that did our truck windshields to get his opinion. If you want to call me after I do my window I can talk you through how to do it, it's really not that hard. I've had the original right window out, back in, and out again by myself. Bob
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Old 09-20-2012, 08:49 PM   #104
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I'm using a different weatherstrip than what has been previously recommended, and it hasn't arrived here yet so I can't give you a report on that yet. You wil need about 15 feet of it total plus the lockstrip. You should be able to get the tool local. I'm not planning on using any sealer on the wall side of the weatherstrip, but may on the window side because that groove is wider than the edge of the window frame. I hope to get in touch with the glass guy that did our truck windshields to get his opinion. If you want to call me after I do my window I can talk you through how to do it, it's really not that hard. I've had the original right window out, back in, and out again by myself. Bob

Thanks, Bob! I'll take you up on that!
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Old 09-26-2012, 06:39 PM   #105
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I just installed the new window on the drivers side [left side] and found some issues that some of you may find interesting. The original right side weatherstrip is the type that has a fold in lock strip, the left side weatherstrip uses a removable lock strip. Both weatherstrips have one groove that is 3/16 wide and the other groove is 1/4" wide. The trailer wall is 3/16" thick and so is the lip on the window that sets in the groove. For this post I'll call the measurement from the open end of one groove to the open end of the other groove "the width" . I ordered from Perfectfit the AS1456 weatherstrip as it has a 3/16 groove on one side and a 1/4" groove on the other, same as the original on the trailer. But the problem comes in with "the width". The original fold in weatherstrip has a width of 1", the original lock strip one has a width of 15/16", and the new AS1456 width is 7/8". If you look at your new or old windows you will see on the top lip, about 5" in from each end, a drilled 1/8" hole. The original weatherstrip probably covered these holes, but the new AS1456 does not, so they need to be sealed shut, by whatever type of caulk that you like. I'm assuming that the AS1488 weatherstrip that has been previously recommended is the same width as the AS1456, but I can't find that spec on Perfectfit's web site. So when I installed my new window I put the 3/16 groove over the trailer wall. I had cut a piece 7' 4" long, had my wife help feed it around the window, and when I got all the way around I cut it to length. It was like wrestling a snake! We then got the window into the weatherstrip from inside the trailer, that wasn't real easy either. After we figured out which way to feed the lock strip through the tool, that didn't go too bad, the corners being the most difficult. We used dish washing soap to lube the lock strip and the groove it goes in. After examining the original weatherstrip I found that one window was installed with the 3/16" groove on the trailer wall, the other one had the 3/16" groove against the window. That was probably just however the person installing the window chose to do it, I don't think there is any technical reason. So as for the end result, we haven't water tested for leaks yet, and I find that I much more like the clamp ring type windows for ease of installation. I hope this all makes some sense, and is useful information to some of you. Bob
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Old 09-26-2012, 07:01 PM   #106
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Great report out, Bob. I totally agree with respect to the clamp ring begin a better design.
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Old 10-03-2012, 08:57 PM   #107
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Just wondering how come the 'escape' window on the driver side can be pushed out (supposedly) so easily once you pull the tabbed lock strip out, yet it is a bugger to get into the weatherstripping to begin with? Has anyone analyzed which weatherstripping is simpler to install (between the driver and passenger windows)
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Old 10-03-2012, 10:14 PM   #108
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I wouldn't say the "escape" window came out easily, but if you were in an emergency situation, both feet against the window would get it out in a hurry. I took my passenger side window out a while back when I was checking the opening size to fit a Scamp window in there, it came out fairly easy, then I put the window back in using the original weatherstrip with the fold in lock strip, went in easy doing it alone. But it was easy because the weatherstrip was stiff, retained its' shape for the corners, and went right back in without twisting. The new weatherstrip I just bought was coiled up in a box and it took two of us to keep it straight and fit it to the opening. The new lock strip goes in OK once we lubed it with dish soap and figured out how to feed it through the tool. We were towing and camping in some heavy rain this past weekend and the new window didn't leak at all. For now I'm leaving the Scamp jalousie window in the right side, I've got too much invested in it to take it out, time and money. Bob
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Old 10-03-2012, 11:26 PM   #109
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Weep (drain) hole covers!

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Originally Posted by djtriceflt View Post
The repair manual shows only two weep holes in the side windows so I checked into this a little more...

The date of manufacture of my CT with two weep holes is 10/85
and the one built on 5/85 has 4 weep holes! Go figure...
Both were made in Youngstown, Ohio. . I have decided to not put additional
weep holes in as the two weep holes are at the end of the frames rather than the middle so drainage still occurs, regardless...

Now, the weep hole covers are another question! They are the same part number for all of the windows. Apparently they deteriorated rapidly being plastic and were only glued on. Some replacements made out of nylon or something more durable would be nice. I can see how they would help to keep the water flowing one way (out) if in steady or driving rains...IF I find something I'll pass it on.
Well, I checked all the weather stripping part numbers at Uhaul and they are all NLA as most of us had assumed. But, the part number for the weep hole covers are still used by something else that UHaul has and it is part #21989007 (cover -drain hole). They were .90 each, I believe, and I ordered enough to do all my windows. I just received them and they are black plastic with little clips that hold them in place but also need to be sealed, according to the repair manual. I may use Permatex gasket maker as that stuff is tough. They came out of the Kansas City warehouse but I ordered them on the UHAUL parts website...Send a request to
FRANK and he will invoice you prior to shipment if you want some of these original type. Here's the link (click on did not find what you need? at the top)
http://epc.uhaul.com/LinkOne/Viewer/...aul/misc_parts
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Old 10-04-2012, 05:17 AM   #110
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......... (click on did not find what you need? at the top)
http://epc.uhaul.com/LinkOne/Viewer/...aul/misc_parts
hummmm
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One.jpg   two.jpg  

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Old 10-04-2012, 08:32 AM   #111
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hummmm
Me, too. Maybe there is another way to order.
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Old 10-04-2012, 10:11 AM   #112
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hummmm
Sorry, I have not a clue why that happened. If this does not work just go to UHaul Truck sales and get to the link at the top that says ' cant find your part? ' to send the email to Frank who is in charge there.

Here is another try to their web site:

http://epc.uhaul.com/LinkOne/Viewer/...aul/misc_parts
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