New Old Stock Window Shock! Help, Please

[Higginra]

Identical

[mary and bob]

I would say Robert's discovery of this supplier is the next best, if not better solution as the NOS windows.

[D Davis]

Folks I have been so disheartened...It really makes me feel good to know you are trying to help me. I feel humbled by this experience, you are so kind. I do respect your opinions so much. I will call Robert.
It's Easter and going to dinner but will get back with you later. Have a great Easter!

[Thomas G.]

Originally Posted by mary and bob

I would say Robert's discovery of this supplier is the next best, if not better solution as the NOS windows.

I think that UHaul only used the gasket-installed side window so they could double it as an emergency exit. The clamp ring is a superior design, thus their use on the front and rear window.

[mary and bob]

Originally Posted by Thomas G.

I think that UHaul only used the gasket-installed side window so they could double it as an emergency exit. The clamp ring is a superior design, thus their use on the front and rear window.

I find it kind of odd that they used the two different types of weatherstrip on the side windows, so that only the one is an emergency escape. I would think it would be easier to stock and use just the one type.

[Thomas G.]

Originally Posted by mary and bob

I find it kind of odd that they used the two different types of weatherstrip on the side windows, so that only the one is an emergency escape. I would think it would be easier to stock and use just the one type.

I would think it would have been just easier to buy 2000 Scamps or Burros and rent them.

[Pam Garlow]

Just trying some outside-the-box thinking. I've heard so many people rave about moldable epoxy putty that I'm wondering if it might be of use in this case? If this window opening is only 1/4" too large on all sides, would it be possible to get the edge ultra clean and then just mold the epoxy putty along that edge and once it's all cured, then just install the NOS window in the regular way?
If it doesn't work, it would be just a matter of cleaning off the epoxy putty and ordering the custom window. Your thoughts?

[Eddie Longest]

If the seal still fits the shell OK after it was cut you can could get a piece of plexiglass cut to fit. Like the old Scamp front and rear windows. Quick and cheap. Just another option.
Eddie

[Higginra]

She is going to get me some pick and measurements so I can help her along in the process of ordering a replacement side window.

[D Davis]

Ok, so now have spoken to Robert, nice gentleman,Thank you. Will take pics of the opening of window tomorrow morning after taking the loose new window and weatherstripping out. Then I will go and buy a sheet of plexiglass, Thank you "Eddie" and have it cut to fit the weatherstrip and install that untill the replacement window comes in. Gee can't miss out on camping weather coming soon can I? And interestingly Pam's "out of the box" suggestion has me reading as well. They make different kinds of this stuff, a marine and a metal one. Thanks Pam
PC Products PC-Marine Moldable Epoxy Putty, 4 oz Tube, White: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
This is interesting....the metal one says it is brittle. Curious...
Thanks go out to all my FG Club members who have so unselfishly helped me and others in this GREAT online club, so many smart and caring people! My spirits are lifted!!!!!!

[Thomas G.]

Originally Posted by Thomas G.

............
One is to build the window frame back to the original dimensions with fiberglass mat. .......

Originally Posted by Pam Garlow

.......... If this window opening is only 1/4" too large on all sides, would it be possible to get the edge ultra clean and then just mold the epoxy putty along that edge and once it's all cured, then just install the NOS window in the regular way?
.........

Originally Posted by D Davis

........And interestingly Pam's "out of the box" suggestion has me reading as well. They make different kinds of this stuff, a marine and a metal one. Thanks Pam
PC Products PC-Marine Moldable Epoxy Putty, 4 oz Tube, White: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
........

I've never used the two part epoxy putty to make anything structural, so I can't say if it would work. I'm pretty sure that it you ground the edges back about 3/8 of an inch, then built it back up with mat and resin to the full wall thickness, it would be strong enough. What the epoxy lacks is fibers, which gives fiberglass its strength. Of course, this is a lot of grinding and fiberglass work to make the edge smooth and uniform enough to seal against the rubber.

[Donna D.]

Originally Posted by Thomas G.

Of course, this is a lot of grinding and fiberglass work to make the edge smooth and uniform enough to seal against the rubber.

But it can be done. Plenty of owners have traded those wonderful jalousie (square corner) windows for radius sliders and had to fill in the corners. Here's a good example: Picasa Web Albums - Brady and Jenny's... - BOLER#

[Thomas G.]

Originally Posted by Donna D.

But it can be done. Plenty of owners have traded those wonderful jalousie (square corner) windows for radius sliders and had to fill in the corners. Here's a good example: Picasa Web Albums - Brady and Jenny's... - BOLER#

Oh, I know. I grew up in the age of rusted out cars, fiberglass and bondo. I'm just not sure if Diane wants to take this on when she can make the problem go away for $136.
_________________________________________________

Just a thought - although we got a good deal on the NOS windows, they are easily worth $150 + each given the alternatives available to a prospective buyer. Even the old windows with all the parts are worth at least $75 each, given that all the parts to rebuild them are readily available and that they are sought after and rare. So, on the bright side, if Diane went with the teardrop alternative, I don't think that she'd do it at a loss. And I don't think that a prospective buyer of the UHaul windows would feel taken advantage of.

[D Davis]

Originally Posted by Donna D.

But it can be done. Plenty of owners have traded those wonderful jalousie (square corner) windows for radius sliders and had to fill in the corners. Here's a good example: Picasa Web Albums - Brady and Jenny's... - BOLER#

Pam, thanks, "Brad and Jenney" did an incredible amount of work! I also read "D Whites" lesson on how to fiberglass... difference is D White said NEVER use bondo or the mesh cloth on fiberglass trailers, only the liguid resin, a stipple bush and fiberglass matt.

Good solutions certainly options. Tom the epoxy Marine putty has glass in it, the metal version of the putty has shreds of metal in that. I could not find in the amount of time I had any further description of the Marine putty. It's like clay, you mold it into the shape you need, attach it to the sanded and cleaned surface. The Metal one says "not for bendable surfaces as it is Brittle. But neither has the strengh of the layered fiberglass matt, I suspect.

I am at a point where decisions have to be made because I have even more work to do to the trailer...Seam Trim, (Front and back are now clean and ready for Trim,...then the Top (Old solar needs to be Removed) and trim. New solar and Headliner. Then REST...Day job in between.

[Thomas G.]

Originally Posted by D Davis

............Good solutions certainly options. Tom the epoxy Marine putty has glass in it, the metal version of the putty has shreds of metal in that. I could not find in the amount of time I had any further description of the Marine putty. It's like clay, you mold it into the shape you need, attach it to the sanded and cleaned surface. The Metal one says "not for bendable surfaces as it is Brittle. But neither has the strengh of the layered fiberglass matt, I suspect.
...........

I don't envy you having to make this decision. I think that the weak point of added putty would be the bond to the window edge. If you ground the window edge thinner on each side and built it back up with mat and resin, you have the attachment along sides to adhere it and the mat fibers to give the new extension bending strength. That said, mat and resin would be a lot more work. You can try the putty and see if it works. If not, knock it off and go to plan B.

[mmeyer]

Originally Posted by Eddie Longest

If the seal still fits the shell OK after it was cut you can could get a piece of plexiglass cut to fit. Like the old Scamp front and rear windows. Quick and cheap. Just another option.
Eddie

If you could con them into cutting the window out of a piece that is about 1 inch larger all around then the remaining outside piece could be glued to the fiberglass and used to make up the difference. it would still need to be whittled down about an 1/8" all around to make up for the center thickness of the rubber trim.

[rabbit]

Tom's intution concerning expoxy putties is also mine. There may be fibers in the epoxy putty but they won't do anything across that very narrow butt join. As Tom indicates, grinding to a flat scarf (wedge) or arrowhead shape in section and applying fabmat and resin to one of both sides overlapping by about an inch might hold and there would still be a cosmetic problem which would require painting.

Imho, the best choices so far rated by lowest to highest outlay are: 1) plex glazing and grommet, 2) sheet material reveal (aluminum sheet?) riveted to oversize opening, 3) custom made sash.

jack

[mary and bob]

I'm with Jack on the list of choices, the Uhaul wall is only 3/16" thick and that's why I went with the 1/8 aluminum as a filler piece and overlapped it on the fiberglass for my Scamp into Uhaul window. And as Tom also says, the new custom sized window is best. I recall an old post by someone that installed a Scamp window in a Uhaul and made up the excess gap with fiberglass, but I'm not sure just how they did it.

[Donna D.]

Originally Posted by mary and bob

I recall an old post by someone that installed a Scamp window in a Uhaul and made up the excess gap with fiberglass,......

I thought it was you? Direct link: http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...tml#post357506

[mary and bob]

Donna, that's not the thread I was thinking about, it was back in early 2012 maybe and I don't remember who it was that did it. We had met the owner of a new 13 foot Scamp in a campground in SC last April and I measured her windows and it looked like they would fit. When I got the new Scamp side window and held it up to my Uhaul opening and it pretty much just fell through I knew I had to come up with another plan. I remembered that post about filling the excess space with fiberglass and didn't like that idea so I made a spacer out of aluminum and am happy with the result. I realize it is easy for us to tell Diane how to spend her money, but I sincerely believe at this point that for best results she should go with the custom made window from the source that member Higginra used. Bob