New Old Stock Window Shock! Help, Please - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-31-2013, 06:13 PM   #29
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Window too small for side window

She is going to get me some pick and measurements so I can help her along in the process of ordering a replacement side window.
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Old 03-31-2013, 06:47 PM   #30
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Ok, so now have spoken to Robert, nice gentleman,Thank you. Will take pics of the opening of window tomorrow morning after taking the loose new window and weatherstripping out. Then I will go and buy a sheet of plexiglass, Thank you "Eddie" and have it cut to fit the weatherstrip and install that untill the replacement window comes in. Gee can't miss out on camping weather coming soon can I? And interestingly Pam's "out of the box" suggestion has me reading as well. They make different kinds of this stuff, a marine and a metal one. Thanks Pam
PC Products PC-Marine Moldable Epoxy Putty, 4 oz Tube, White: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
This is interesting....the metal one says it is brittle. Curious...
Thanks go out to all my FG Club members who have so unselfishly helped me and others in this GREAT online club, so many smart and caring people! My spirits are lifted!!!!!!
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Old 03-31-2013, 08:43 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by Thomas G. View Post
............
One is to build the window frame back to the original dimensions with fiberglass mat. .......
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Originally Posted by Pam Garlow View Post
.......... If this window opening is only 1/4" too large on all sides, would it be possible to get the edge ultra clean and then just mold the epoxy putty along that edge and once it's all cured, then just install the NOS window in the regular way?
.........
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........And interestingly Pam's "out of the box" suggestion has me reading as well. They make different kinds of this stuff, a marine and a metal one. Thanks Pam
PC Products PC-Marine Moldable Epoxy Putty, 4 oz Tube, White: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
........
I've never used the two part epoxy putty to make anything structural, so I can't say if it would work. I'm pretty sure that it you ground the edges back about 3/8 of an inch, then built it back up with mat and resin to the full wall thickness, it would be strong enough. What the epoxy lacks is fibers, which gives fiberglass its strength. Of course, this is a lot of grinding and fiberglass work to make the edge smooth and uniform enough to seal against the rubber.
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Old 03-31-2013, 08:51 PM   #32
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Of course, this is a lot of grinding and fiberglass work to make the edge smooth and uniform enough to seal against the rubber.
But it can be done. Plenty of owners have traded those wonderful jalousie (square corner) windows for radius sliders and had to fill in the corners. Here's a good example: Picasa Web Albums - Brady and Jenny's... - BOLER#
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Old 03-31-2013, 08:55 PM   #33
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But it can be done. Plenty of owners have traded those wonderful jalousie (square corner) windows for radius sliders and had to fill in the corners. Here's a good example: Picasa Web Albums - Brady and Jenny's... - BOLER#
Oh, I know. I grew up in the age of rusted out cars, fiberglass and bondo. I'm just not sure if Diane wants to take this on when she can make the problem go away for $136.
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Just a thought - although we got a good deal on the NOS windows, they are easily worth $150 + each given the alternatives available to a prospective buyer. Even the old windows with all the parts are worth at least $75 each, given that all the parts to rebuild them are readily available and that they are sought after and rare. So, on the bright side, if Diane went with the teardrop alternative, I don't think that she'd do it at a loss. And I don't think that a prospective buyer of the UHaul windows would feel taken advantage of.
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Old 04-01-2013, 08:39 AM   #34
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But it can be done. Plenty of owners have traded those wonderful jalousie (square corner) windows for radius sliders and had to fill in the corners. Here's a good example: Picasa Web Albums - Brady and Jenny's... - BOLER#
Pam, thanks, "Brad and Jenney" did an incredible amount of work! I also read "D Whites" lesson on how to fiberglass... difference is D White said NEVER use bondo or the mesh cloth on fiberglass trailers, only the liguid resin, a stipple bush and fiberglass matt.

Good solutions certainly options. Tom the epoxy Marine putty has glass in it, the metal version of the putty has shreds of metal in that. I could not find in the amount of time I had any further description of the Marine putty. It's like clay, you mold it into the shape you need, attach it to the sanded and cleaned surface. The Metal one says "not for bendable surfaces as it is Brittle. But neither has the strengh of the layered fiberglass matt, I suspect.

I am at a point where decisions have to be made because I have even more work to do to the trailer...Seam Trim, (Front and back are now clean and ready for Trim,...then the Top (Old solar needs to be Removed) and trim. New solar and Headliner. Then REST...Day job in between.
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Old 04-01-2013, 08:52 AM   #35
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............Good solutions certainly options. Tom the epoxy Marine putty has glass in it, the metal version of the putty has shreds of metal in that. I could not find in the amount of time I had any further description of the Marine putty. It's like clay, you mold it into the shape you need, attach it to the sanded and cleaned surface. The Metal one says "not for bendable surfaces as it is Brittle. But neither has the strengh of the layered fiberglass matt, I suspect.
...........
I don't envy you having to make this decision. I think that the weak point of added putty would be the bond to the window edge. If you ground the window edge thinner on each side and built it back up with mat and resin, you have the attachment along sides to adhere it and the mat fibers to give the new extension bending strength. That said, mat and resin would be a lot more work. You can try the putty and see if it works. If not, knock it off and go to plan B.
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Old 04-01-2013, 11:52 AM   #36
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If the seal still fits the shell OK after it was cut you can could get a piece of plexiglass cut to fit. Like the old Scamp front and rear windows. Quick and cheap. Just another option.
Eddie
If you could con them into cutting the window out of a piece that is about 1 inch larger all around then the remaining outside piece could be glued to the fiberglass and used to make up the difference. it would still need to be whittled down about an 1/8" all around to make up for the center thickness of the rubber trim.
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Old 04-01-2013, 12:06 PM   #37
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Tom's intution concerning expoxy putties is also mine. There may be fibers in the epoxy putty but they won't do anything across that very narrow butt join. As Tom indicates, grinding to a flat scarf (wedge) or arrowhead shape in section and applying fabmat and resin to one of both sides overlapping by about an inch might hold and there would still be a cosmetic problem which would require painting.

Imho, the best choices so far rated by lowest to highest outlay are: 1) plex glazing and grommet, 2) sheet material reveal (aluminum sheet?) riveted to oversize opening, 3) custom made sash.

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Old 04-01-2013, 02:07 PM   #38
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I'm with Jack on the list of choices, the Uhaul wall is only 3/16" thick and that's why I went with the 1/8 aluminum as a filler piece and overlapped it on the fiberglass for my Scamp into Uhaul window. And as Tom also says, the new custom sized window is best. I recall an old post by someone that installed a Scamp window in a Uhaul and made up the excess gap with fiberglass, but I'm not sure just how they did it.
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Old 04-01-2013, 08:01 PM   #39
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I recall an old post by someone that installed a Scamp window in a Uhaul and made up the excess gap with fiberglass,......
I thought it was you? Direct link: Replacement windows for 85' U-Haul 13'
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Old 04-01-2013, 08:29 PM   #40
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Donna, that's not the thread I was thinking about, it was back in early 2012 maybe and I don't remember who it was that did it. We had met the owner of a new 13 foot Scamp in a campground in SC last April and I measured her windows and it looked like they would fit. When I got the new Scamp side window and held it up to my Uhaul opening and it pretty much just fell through I knew I had to come up with another plan. I remembered that post about filling the excess space with fiberglass and didn't like that idea so I made a spacer out of aluminum and am happy with the result. I realize it is easy for us to tell Diane how to spend her money, but I sincerely believe at this point that for best results she should go with the custom made window from the source that member Higginra used. Bob
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Old 04-01-2013, 08:30 PM   #41
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Window opening pictures

This morning I took the window in question out, rather it fell out. I think Uhaul did this because the upper thickness is about 1/4" and the bottom of the frame is much thicker... over 3/4". Attached are the pictures of the routed window. First ones are from the outside and then the rest are from the inside. The measurements are from top to bottom 19 1/8" and the width is 24 3/4 in one spot and 24 7/8 in another.
Now WHATCHA THINK? HA!
Attached Thumbnails
OutsideUpperLeft.jpg   OutsideUpperRight.jpg  

OutsideBottom.jpg   straightDnLowerLip.jpg  

Lowerleft.jpg   LowerLip.jpg  

SideView.jpg   TopLeft.jpg  

TopRgt.jpg  
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Old 04-01-2013, 08:35 PM   #42
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I also cut plexiglass this morning and put in back into the rubberweatherstrip and put it into the window...the weatherstrip will not hold to the thin edges. A strong wind will blow it out. It started to rain so it's back under tarp.
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