New Old Stock Window Shock! Help, Please - Page 5 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 04-02-2013, 07:01 PM   #57
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I was just trying to figure out the pictures, Tom I think you have the answer. What I think I would try is get the custom made window to start with. I believe Robert said that various size clamp rings were available, that is for different wall thickness. I would get the clamp ring he got and try to make it work, maybe have to use different length screws where the wall was thicker. If that clamp ring doesn't work, just have to get another or maybe use some kind of wood shims to even things out on the inside. a set of curtains will hide most of it anyway. When I put in that Scamp window, to use their clamp ring I had to turn it backwards because it's made for a thicker wall. I also made a spacer of 1/4" plywood to go around the original opening on the inside for the trim ring to set against. Main concern here is to get a leak proof window.
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Old 04-02-2013, 07:13 PM   #58
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My thoughts would be to order the window with 2 trim rings. They are $11.00 ea and that would give you the flexibility of using either size.
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Old 04-02-2013, 07:22 PM   #59
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My thoughts would be to order the window with 2 trim rings. They are $11.00 ea and that would give you the flexibility of using either size.
Good suggestion. Maybe the window builder has a suggestion, too. It may a common problem.
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Old 04-02-2013, 07:28 PM   #60
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OK, I think I finally get it. The wall thickness at the bottom was too thick and maybe not flat as it should have been on one or both pieces (inner and outer walls). So after they bonded the two halves together, they couldn't install the window. They decided to grind off the inner wall on the window opening perimeter and just use the outer wall as the mounting surface.

Exactly right Tom! At the bottom and bottom corners, sorry I was having such a hard time trying to explain this Ya'll.

Re a custom teardrop window - I'm a little concerned that you will have trouble with a clamping ring if the wall thickness varies too much. Does it look like you could get a cut off wheel in between the two walls and thin them down, then glue them together to a uniform overall thickness, closer to 1/4"?
I think the outer wall height on the bottom would be the problem because if you cut it down there would not be enough room on the bottom perimeter for a clamp ring or weatherstripping. You might run into the Uhaul and Burrow extruded part.
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Old 04-02-2013, 07:32 PM   #61
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My suggested size to provide them is a 19 3/8 X 25 rough opening based on ensuring the trim should cover most of the router issues.
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Old 04-02-2013, 07:34 PM   #62
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My thoughts would be to order the window with 2 trim rings. They are $11.00 ea and that would give you the flexibility of using either size.
Robert good suggestion, sounds like I need to talk to him soon.
Bob good suggestion about the shims, what about a hard rubber mat material like used in conveyor belts. I really do not know how to fiberglass a tiny long area and have it come out the same thickness. Not afraid to try but....
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Old 04-02-2013, 07:47 PM   #63
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I'm cheap. I don't like to spend money to get back to even.

SOOOO. Would building up the radius corners with something like plexiglass jammed between the hulls and glued into place with Devcon Plastic Welder (Devcon Plastic Welder is a toughened structural adhesive formulated for bonding dissimilar substrates), then putting at least two layers of butyl around the window frame and clamped into place... then with blue painters tape... neatly outlining the window frame using Proflex to seal the window frame to the body...

Would this work?
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Old 04-02-2013, 07:50 PM   #64
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[QUOTE=Thomas G.;374796]OK, I think I finally get it. The wall thickness at the bottom was too thick and maybe not flat as it should have been on one or both pieces (inner and outer walls). So after they bonded the two halves together, they couldn't install the window. They decided to grind off the inner wall on the window opening perimeter and just use the outer wall as the mounting surface.

This is exactly right...sorry i was having such a hard time trying to explain this...and we are finally getting to a solution... Thank you all so much for all your inputs.
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Old 04-02-2013, 07:55 PM   #65
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I'm cheap. I don't like to spend money to get back to even.

SOOOO. Would building up the radius corners with something like plexiglass jammed between the hulls and glued into place with Devcon Plastic Welder (Devcon Plastic Welder is a toughened structural adhesive formulated for bonding dissimilar substrates), then putting at least two layers of butyl around the window frame and clamped into place... then with blue painters tape... neatly outlining the window frame using Proflex to seal the window frame to the body...

Would this work?
Donna I'm Cheap too!!! Have to be...
This sounds good to me too. We are all working together, I think parts of everyone's latter suggestions are all do-able! Hurray!!!!
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Old 04-02-2013, 07:58 PM   #66
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Originally Posted by Donna D. View Post
I'm cheap. I don't like to spend money to get back to even.

SOOOO. Would building up the radius corners with something like plexiglass jammed between the hulls and glued into place with Devcon Plastic Welder (Devcon Plastic Welder is a toughened structural adhesive formulated for bonding dissimilar substrates), then putting at least two layers of butyl around the window frame and clamped into place... then with blue painters tape... neatly outlining the window frame using Proflex to seal the window frame to the body...

Would this work?
I think that we have narrowed down the problem to be that the wall is much thicker at the bottom than at the top. A clamp ring window should seal OK on the outside, but we need to figure out how to make the clamp ring work on the inside with a varying wall thickness. One option is to get a clamp ring sized for the thickest part and shim under it with wood at the thin part of the wall.
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Old 04-02-2013, 08:36 PM   #67
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Rubber mat - I've used pieces of old truck mudflap as shims, even ground some pieces into a wedge shape to mount Thule bars on a roof rack. When I worked on trucks before retiring, I saved some mudflap pieces for whatever I could use them for. If you do use a rubber shim at least it won't split like wood might. If you have a license plate that hangs on a bracket by only 2 bolts, mounting it on a mudflap piece first strengthens it and will help keep it from cracking, a trick we used in the shop. A plain truck mudflap generally has two different thickness sections, you don't want the kind that have all little knobs, they are designed to cut down on spray. If there is a truck repair shop, or truck stop near you they may have a piece as they are always getting torn off and sometimes the new ones have to be shortened.
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Old 04-02-2013, 08:41 PM   #68
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The last thing I would use is wood. We've read too many horror stories about Trilliums with rotton wood around the windows... but, that doesn't discount the moisture problem. Whatever is used has to be sealed on the outside, whether rubber or plexiglass or built up fiberglass.
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Old 04-02-2013, 08:58 PM   #69
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I am thinking of this epoxy putty not sure yet, you have to work very fast with it., check it out, it's made for fiberglass underwater boat hull repair...
Marine Tex, epoxy resin, adhesives, silicone grease, engine treatment, cleaner, repair, bond, fill, seal, fiberglass, aluminum, plastics, Starboard, wood
Bob, I also live near a plant that makes rubber conveyor belt mats and rubber mats for other stuff as well. That's where I got my Battery box seal layer from. They gave it to me.
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Old 04-03-2013, 07:11 AM   #70
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I am thinking of this epoxy putty not sure yet, you have to work very fast with it., check it out, it's made for fiberglass underwater boat hull repair...
Marine Tex, epoxy resin, adhesives, silicone grease, engine treatment, cleaner, repair, bond, fill, seal, fiberglass, aluminum, plastics, Starboard, wood
Bob, I also live near a plant that makes rubber conveyor belt mats and rubber mats for other stuff as well. That's where I got my Battery box seal layer from. They gave it to me.
I'm a little slow this morning. Where would you use the Marine Tex? To clean up the bottom of the window sill or to shim out the top of the clap ring, or......?
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