New owner learning question another - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV

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Old 08-17-2013, 06:07 PM   #15
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Name: Tom
Trailer: 1996 Scamp...SD
Posts: 246
I would if it was me, get rid of the wheel and put a foot pad on, or new jack with proper wheel. Inch higher stinger (tongue bar) might get you going, BUT what happens with dips in pavement with only a Inch clearance? My guess you would be buying a new jack anyways......

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Old 08-17-2013, 06:24 PM   #16
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Name: Judi
Trailer: 16' scamp standard side diner
Posts: 117
So when I get to San Francisco which is where I will park trailer for 10 days and house sit, I should bring wood with me to sit trailer TV on? I don't think I want to bring a cement block w/ me but wood is okay. I did have the ball mount at 24 inches and it swayed all over so they put the lower one on. Think I won't mess any more with ball mount. Thanks. But how do I get Tv of trailer up high enough first to get the wheel off and toss it?

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Old 08-17-2013, 06:26 PM   #17
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Name: Mary
Trailer: Escape 21; (formerly Casita LD 17 & 16)
Posts: 9,084
Originally Posted by Infogypsy View Post
Attaching pics. Not understanding terms of responses so far. Short explanation if my situation: at 70 woman on own traveling 6-8 days in a row so can leave car hitched to trailer those days. Then 1-2 weeks parking trailer not in use. Then back on road again staying in different campground each night. Basically living on road (no house). Not sure what you mean by jack or some other terms. I can hitch trailer fine; just can not get wheel off to get on road. Hope that helps. I am determined to master this. I do hate the idea of going back to hitch people for a third bar (that holds ball). As I said I was at 24" and easy to get wheel out but trailer fish tailed mucho. Now 17 1/2 inches including ball and cannot get wheel out when hitched.
Judi, I misspoke in my explanation. When I said "jack stand" I just meant the vertical tube that raises and lowers when you crank it. A true jack stand is actually a separate thing that one typically places under an axle or bumper to hold the vehicle in place (for example, while changing a tire). Sorry for adding to the confusement by using the wrong term.
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Old 08-17-2013, 07:59 PM   #18
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Name: Randy
Trailer: 2014 Casita Spirit Deluxe
Posts: 91
Judi, you didn't mention which trailer you have but Scamp recommends a ball height of 18" for their 13' trailer and 21" for the 16 footer. Raising the ball height may just give you the room to remove the wheel.
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Old 08-17-2013, 08:15 PM   #19
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Name: Judi
Trailer: 16' scamp standard side diner
Posts: 117
Yes. I started there. Made sure my ball height was over 20 inches. Took a week to get it right. Only when I got 8 hours away and got
My scamp my seller told me it was too high. I made it home with white knuckles. So I lowered the hitch to 17 1/2 inch and it's to low now to get wheel jack off. Oh well we will figure it out with all your help.
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Old 08-17-2013, 09:45 PM   #20
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Name: Roger
Trailer: 2009 Trillium 1300 "Homelet"/2014 Subaru Outback "Rosie"
Posts: 2,155
Smile My Solution

I had somewhat the same problem. I added a spacer where the three bolts hold the jack to the a-frame. If all you need is an inch and a half or less, this should work. I actually used a piece of 2x8, cut it in a circle with a hole in the middle like a doughnut, placed the jack in the doughnut hole, located the holes for the bolts from the jack, drilled the three holes and then bolted it on. I had to buy longer bolts, of course. After awhile, the wood did split, but a large hose clamp fixed that. Also I painted it black to match the frame.
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Old 08-17-2013, 10:05 PM   #21
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Name: Byron
Trailer: 2006 Scamp 13' towed with a 2005 Dodge Dakota 4.7l Magnum W/full tow package (over kill)
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Probably replacing the wheel with a foot would be the best idea. With the wheel that close to the ground you'll likely damage when going over a bump or even into a gas station.
To remove the wheel something like a couple concrete blocks stacked (maybe three) with the trailer NOT connected to the tow. Raise enough to get something under the tongue to hold it up high enough that when you crank the wheel as high as will go you can remove it. For a temporary fix simply get a piece of wood to set under the open pipe and lower the tongue to hitching height. Hitch up raise the tongue jack put the piece of wood in the trailer and go. The wood is there to prevent damage to the end of the jack. Find an RV store and buy a foot that will fit.
Byron & Anne enjoying the everyday Saturday thing.
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Old 08-18-2013, 06:47 AM   #22
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Name: Judi
Trailer: 16' scamp standard side diner
Posts: 117
Thanks. I had no idea the wheel wasn't standard issue for the Scamp. I like idea of buying or ordering the original jack - whatever would have come with the trailer. Thanks for so clearly explaining how to remove the wheel jack. When I towed it home the only time I've towed so far, the wheel was in the back of my car and we put it on when I got home. No problem then since hitch was at 24 inches.
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Old 08-18-2013, 07:12 AM   #23
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Name: jim
Trailer: 2016 2ndGen Escape19 Prairie Schooner pulled by 2014 Dodge Ram Hemi Sport
Posts: 6,241
You can go here for a new jack, you will need to know the diameter and the distance below of the old jack and get one that is shorter. Walmart also sells them, you can remove the old one and take it in for comparisons. A-Frame Jack Trailer Jack |
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Old 08-18-2013, 08:12 AM   #24
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Name: Bob
Trailer: 1973 Hunter Compact II
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Don't get you hopes up about finding a jack that's case doesn't extend down as far as the one you have. I looked and couldn't find one, so this is what I did to keep my Huinter Compact-II tongue jack from scraping on dips. BTW: The first part can be done by anyone that can turn a wrench in about 15 minutes.

1. With the trailer either hitched or with the tongue resting on a set of blocks so that there is no pressure on the jack itself, carefully remove the three cap screws that hold the jack in place and remove the jack. It's usually a 9/16" wrench. Note which hole on the jacks flange is in the front.

2. Take one of the removed cap screws to a hardware store and tell them that you want 3 cap screws that are about 1" longer, 9 flat washers, 3 lock washers and 6 nuts that all fit. NOTE: The new cap screws must all be threaded to the top, without a shoulder.

3. Insert the new cap screws into the holes in the frame from the bottom. If the holes are threaded screw them in tight then put a flat washer and a nut on the top side and tighten that down. If they are not threaded, use a flat washer and a nut on top and tighten as tight as possible.

4. Put one more flat washer on top of the last nut and drop the jack back in place. (Again, be sure the correct hole is in front.)

5. Install flat washers, lock washers and the remaining nuts to secure the jack in place. You can now easily remove and install the jack as needed.

In use, I always remove the jack when towing to prevent accidental hit on dips and curb edges and, reinstall it as needed.

Actual removal and installation takes only a few minutes, but be sure to keep a long 9/16' box wrench handy for the job.

Good Luck

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Old 08-18-2013, 08:31 AM   #25
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Name: Judi
Trailer: 16' scamp standard side diner
Posts: 117
Thanks. Very clear. I am getting the overall picture of the towing situation. My trailers owner took off wheel jack each time and one could leave a jack on but raised or not. I am having an engineer friend look at trailer jack today and will show him your post of way to have a workable jack. Thanks again.
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Old 08-18-2013, 10:03 AM   #26
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Name: Michael
Trailer: Li'l Hauley
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You can go to Harbor Freight store (if you have one nearby) or a trailer repair shop and get a new jack that pivots up out of the way. The Harbor Freight swing-away jacks were about $25, last time I bought one, and these pivoting jacks bolt onto the side of the frame very easily with 4 bolts & nuts that come with it. They are so simple and convenient to use, and when pivoted up parallel to the frame they don't stick down at all so there is nothing to catch as you go over high spots or curbs. The old jack can be unbolted (those 3 hex cap screws, a/k/a/ bolts, come out and the jack slips straight up) and put in storage in case you ever sell the trailer and want to include it. Just google "swing away jack" and you'll see some... has them for $30, and plenty of other sources to choose from.

When I ordered my Lil Hauley this past spring from the Lil Snoozy folks, I requested a pivoting jack rather than the usual jack. They supplied a high quality one that is welded on. Looks very nice and extra sturdy.

Although I've used the swing away jacks on many trailers, truthfully I have not gotten around to replacing the standard jack on my current (stick built) travel trailer. It has a foot, not a wheel, and my trailer (and hitch) sit higher than most eggs would, so scraping has not been a problem. I carry about 4 pieces of 2"x4", each about 6" or so in length. When I want to lower the jack to unhook, I'm too lazy to crank it all the way down. So I reach in my outside storage door and grab some of those wood pieces and stick them under the jack foot. Then I don't have to crank much to get the hitch off the ball. While my situation is the opposite of yours, I'm telling about it just to illustrate that a jack wheel really is not necessary, and you can add a foot in its place and/or just lower the tube onto a piece of wood. All you would lose is the temptation to try and wrestle the front end of your trailer around on its jack wheel.
To every thing there is a season, and a time to every purpose under the heaven... --Ecclesiastes 3
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Old 08-18-2013, 10:11 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by Mike Magee View Post
You can go to Harbor Freight store (if you have one nearby) or a trailer repair shop and get a new jack that pivots up out of the way...........
Here is a coupon for that jack.

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Old 08-18-2013, 10:28 AM   #28
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Name: Frederick
Trailer: Fiber Stream
Posts: 8,125
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Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
Using A-frame jacks for an example, they come in various "retracted heights", from less than 6" to more than 10".
Not in my local area. The market seems to be geared toward larger trailers that ride higher off the ground. I am having a similar problem with my Compact Jr restoration. I'm going to a welding shop to see if they can remove the triangle flange and reposition it lower on the jack's tube.

Frederick - The Scaleman
1978 Fiber Stream 16 named "Eggstasy" & 1971 Compact Jr. named "Boomerang"
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