New owner learning question another

[Byron Kinnaman]

Probably replacing the wheel with a foot would be the best idea. With the wheel that close to the ground you'll likely damage when going over a bump or even into a gas station.
To remove the wheel something like a couple concrete blocks stacked (maybe three) with the trailer NOT connected to the tow. Raise enough to get something under the tongue to hold it up high enough that when you crank the wheel as high as will go you can remove it. For a temporary fix simply get a piece of wood to set under the open pipe and lower the tongue to hitching height. Hitch up raise the tongue jack put the piece of wood in the trailer and go. The wood is there to prevent damage to the end of the jack. Find an RV store and buy a foot that will fit.

[Infogypsy]

Thanks. I had no idea the wheel wasn't standard issue for the Scamp. I like idea of buying or ordering the original jack - whatever would have come with the trailer. Thanks for so clearly explaining how to remove the wheel jack. When I towed it home the only time I've towed so far, the wheel was in the back of my car and we put it on when I got home. No problem then since hitch was at 24 inches.

[cpaharley2008]

You can go here for a new jack, you will need to know the diameter and the distance below of the old jack and get one that is shorter. Walmart also sells them, you can remove the old one and take it in for comparisons. A-Frame Jack Trailer Jack | etrailer.com

[Bob Miller]

Don't get you hopes up about finding a jack that's case doesn't extend down as far as the one you have. I looked and couldn't find one, so this is what I did to keep my Huinter Compact-II tongue jack from scraping on dips. BTW: The first part can be done by anyone that can turn a wrench in about 15 minutes.

1. With the trailer either hitched or with the tongue resting on a set of blocks so that there is no pressure on the jack itself, carefully remove the three cap screws that hold the jack in place and remove the jack. It's usually a 9/16" wrench. Note which hole on the jacks flange is in the front.

2. Take one of the removed cap screws to a hardware store and tell them that you want 3 cap screws that are about 1" longer, 9 flat washers, 3 lock washers and 6 nuts that all fit. NOTE: The new cap screws must all be threaded to the top, without a shoulder.

3. Insert the new cap screws into the holes in the frame from the bottom. If the holes are threaded screw them in tight then put a flat washer and a nut on the top side and tighten that down. If they are not threaded, use a flat washer and a nut on top and tighten as tight as possible.

4. Put one more flat washer on top of the last nut and drop the jack back in place. (Again, be sure the correct hole is in front.)

5. Install flat washers, lock washers and the remaining nuts to secure the jack in place. You can now easily remove and install the jack as needed.

In use, I always remove the jack when towing to prevent accidental hit on dips and curb edges and, reinstall it as needed.

Actual removal and installation takes only a few minutes, but be sure to keep a long 9/16' box wrench handy for the job.

Good Luck



1.

[Infogypsy]

Thanks. Very clear. I am getting the overall picture of the towing situation. My trailers owner took off wheel jack each time and one could leave a jack on but raised or not. I am having an engineer friend look at trailer jack today and will show him your post of way to have a workable jack. Thanks again.

[Mike Magee]

You can go to Harbor Freight store (if you have one nearby) or a trailer repair shop and get a new jack that pivots up out of the way. The Harbor Freight swing-away jacks were about $25, last time I bought one, and these pivoting jacks bolt onto the side of the frame very easily with 4 bolts & nuts that come with it. They are so simple and convenient to use, and when pivoted up parallel to the frame they don't stick down at all so there is nothing to catch as you go over high spots or curbs. The old jack can be unbolted (those 3 hex cap screws, a/k/a/ bolts, come out and the jack slips straight up) and put in storage in case you ever sell the trailer and want to include it. Just google "swing away jack" and you'll see some... trailerpartsdepot.com has them for $30, and plenty of other sources to choose from.

When I ordered my Lil Hauley this past spring from the Lil Snoozy folks, I requested a pivoting jack rather than the usual jack. They supplied a high quality one that is welded on. Looks very nice and extra sturdy.

Although I've used the swing away jacks on many trailers, truthfully I have not gotten around to replacing the standard jack on my current (stick built) travel trailer. It has a foot, not a wheel, and my trailer (and hitch) sit higher than most eggs would, so scraping has not been a problem. I carry about 4 pieces of 2"x4", each about 6" or so in length. When I want to lower the jack to unhook, I'm too lazy to crank it all the way down. So I reach in my outside storage door and grab some of those wood pieces and stick them under the jack foot. Then I don't have to crank much to get the hitch off the ball. While my situation is the opposite of yours, I'm telling about it just to illustrate that a jack wheel really is not necessary, and you can add a foot in its place and/or just lower the tube onto a piece of wood. All you would lose is the temptation to try and wrestle the front end of your trailer around on its jack wheel.

[Thomas G.]

Originally Posted by Mike Magee

You can go to Harbor Freight store (if you have one nearby) or a trailer repair shop and get a new jack that pivots up out of the way...........

Here is a coupon for that jack.

Coupon Display

[Frederick L. Simson]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

Using A-frame jacks for an example, they come in various "retracted heights", from less than 6" to more than 10".

Not in my local area. The market seems to be geared toward larger trailers that ride higher off the ground. I am having a similar problem with my Compact Jr restoration. I'm going to a welding shop to see if they can remove the triangle flange and reposition it lower on the jack's tube.

[Infogypsy]

With all of your input I believe I have it figured out. Will try it later but the easiest solution was to get a third ball mount hitch - 2" taller than the one I have - my first was way too high at 24" off the ground, second was only 15" as it turned out and too low - now I have a 17-18 inch ball mount hitch. Will see if that works to get the jack wheel off (see? I am learning all the lingo). If so, I will keep the wheel jack as I like having it on when I am not traveling. I may even be able to move the trailer around a bit with it (can't quite see that as I weight 145 pounds). Thanks to all - will see if this works - judi

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by Randy P.

Judi, you didn't mention which trailer you have but Scamp recommends a ball height of 18" for their 13' trailer and 21" for the 16 footer.

The current height for a stock Scamp may be 18", but I have no idea what it is for Judi's Scamp. My much larger 1979 Boler 1700 is at 16", and an early Scamp - especially a 13' model - would have likely been lower.

You need the right height for your specific trailer.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by Hambone

Inch higher stinger (tongue bar) might get you going, BUT what happens with dips in pavement with only a Inch clearance?...

Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman

With the wheel that close to the ground you'll likely damage when going over a bump or even into a gas station.

I don't see the problem here, because the idea is to remove the jack wheel after hitching so it isn't there to drag.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

Using A-frame jacks for an example, they come in various "retracted heights", from less than 6" to more than 10".

Originally Posted by Frederick L. Simson

Not in my local area.

Perhaps not here, either, but they are available on-line. I prefer to buy locally, but this seems like a good situation for having the right part shipped.

Originally Posted by Frederick L. Simson

The market seems to be geared toward larger trailers that ride higher off the ground.

I'm not surprised by that trend. We see it even within our own egg community.

Originally Posted by Frederick L. Simson

I am having a similar problem with my Compact Jr restoration. I'm going to a welding shop to see if they can remove the triangle flange and reposition it lower on the jack's tube.

That sounds possible, but it also sounds more expensive than a whole new jack, including shipping.

[Infogypsy]

Yes. Could not get it off due to having put on a new hitch ball mount as mine I had put on was way too tall and hard to control trailer. So I had them lower it; only then it was 15 inches as it turned out and could not get jack wheel off when towing. So with everyone's ideas I finally figured it out. I went and bought another hitch ball mount 2" more lift. And it works!!! Yeah. Thanks all

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by Infogypsy

... I will keep the wheel jack as I like having it on when I am not traveling. I may even be able to move the trailer around a bit with it (can't quite see that as I weight 145 pounds).

I weigh one-third more, but if your trailer is a 13' mine is about twice as heavy... yet on a flat and smooth enough surface, I can move it (with a dolly, because I don't have a wheel on my tongue jack). You might be surprised what you can move. It appears that in Europe, tongue jacks normally have wheels and the trailer bodies have handles on the corners, and moving them by hand is normal.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by Mike Magee

You can go to Harbor Freight store (if you have one nearby) or a trailer repair shop and get a new jack that pivots up out of the way.

Yes, that works, and I think many people use them for the very reason that Judi might need one.

On the other hand, a side-mounted swing-up jack seems like more complication, more stuff in the way on the side of the tongue, and more to go wrong. If the top part of an A-frame jack isn't in the way (of a tow vehicle hatch, for instance), I think it's a better design.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by Roger C H

I had somewhat the same problem. I added a spacer where the three bolts hold the jack to the a-frame. If all you need is an inch and a half or less, this should work.

I think this is a great solution, achieving the same result as buying the same length of jack with a differently positioned flange, or having the flange moved on an existing jack. As with any fixed vertical jack, you have to watch that after raising the top of the jack doesn't interfere with a tow vehicle hatch or anything else, but if there is clearance it's a brilliant low-cost and functional fix.

[Roger C H]

According to the Scamp Manual,

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/d...campManual.pdf

the ball height on the tow vehicle for a 13' should be 18".

[Gilda]

Our new 13' Scamp did not come with a wheel and we wanted the flexibility to push the trailer and inch or two in each direction when parked on the firm asphalt or cement surface. My husband bought and installed a wheel like this Amazon.com: Curt 28276 Jack Caster Assembly: Automotive. We remove it every time we tow and install it before we unhitch the trailer when parked. It serves us well.

[Infogypsy]

That's weird it says 18". I have a copy of the manual from the web specs and it nearly says 16" for 1:' and 20" for 16'. (I have 16' but 24 or even 2"' was way too high as everything I read says trailer should be level. I have a very low riding hitch on my Subaru.

[Bob Miller]

I looked at the Swing Away jack at HF as a solution to my problem with the Hunter (see post #24 above) and deemed it a little to cheesy for support when parked and using the trailer. Others may differ......