New owner learning question another - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-18-2013, 01:28 PM   #29
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Name: Judi
Trailer: 16' scamp standard side diner
Indiana
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With all of your input I believe I have it figured out. Will try it later but the easiest solution was to get a third ball mount hitch - 2" taller than the one I have - my first was way too high at 24" off the ground, second was only 15" as it turned out and too low - now I have a 17-18 inch ball mount hitch. Will see if that works to get the jack wheel off (see? I am learning all the lingo). If so, I will keep the wheel jack as I like having it on when I am not traveling. I may even be able to move the trailer around a bit with it (can't quite see that as I weight 145 pounds). Thanks to all - will see if this works - judi
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Old 08-18-2013, 03:01 PM   #30
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Trailer: Boler (B1700RGH) 1979
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Originally Posted by Randy P. View Post
Judi, you didn't mention which trailer you have but Scamp recommends a ball height of 18" for their 13' trailer and 21" for the 16 footer.
The current height for a stock Scamp may be 18", but I have no idea what it is for Judi's Scamp. My much larger 1979 Boler 1700 is at 16", and an early Scamp - especially a 13' model - would have likely been lower.

You need the right height for your specific trailer.
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Old 08-18-2013, 03:03 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by Hambone View Post
Inch higher stinger (tongue bar) might get you going, BUT what happens with dips in pavement with only a Inch clearance?...
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Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman View Post
With the wheel that close to the ground you'll likely damage when going over a bump or even into a gas station.
I don't see the problem here, because the idea is to remove the jack wheel after hitching so it isn't there to drag.
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Old 08-18-2013, 03:09 PM   #32
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Name: Brian
Trailer: Boler (B1700RGH) 1979
Alberta
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Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
Using A-frame jacks for an example, they come in various "retracted heights", from less than 6" to more than 10".
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Originally Posted by Frederick L. Simson View Post
Not in my local area.
Perhaps not here, either, but they are available on-line. I prefer to buy locally, but this seems like a good situation for having the right part shipped.

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Originally Posted by Frederick L. Simson View Post
The market seems to be geared toward larger trailers that ride higher off the ground.
I'm not surprised by that trend. We see it even within our own egg community.

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Originally Posted by Frederick L. Simson View Post
I am having a similar problem with my Compact Jr restoration. I'm going to a welding shop to see if they can remove the triangle flange and reposition it lower on the jack's tube.
That sounds possible, but it also sounds more expensive than a whole new jack, including shipping.
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Old 08-18-2013, 03:10 PM   #33
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Name: Judi
Trailer: 16' scamp standard side diner
Indiana
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Yes. Could not get it off due to having put on a new hitch ball mount as mine I had put on was way too tall and hard to control trailer. So I had them lower it; only then it was 15 inches as it turned out and could not get jack wheel off when towing. So with everyone's ideas I finally figured it out. I went and bought another hitch ball mount 2" more lift. And it works!!! Yeah. Thanks all
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Old 08-18-2013, 03:14 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by Infogypsy View Post
... I will keep the wheel jack as I like having it on when I am not traveling. I may even be able to move the trailer around a bit with it (can't quite see that as I weight 145 pounds).
I weigh one-third more, but if your trailer is a 13' mine is about twice as heavy... yet on a flat and smooth enough surface, I can move it (with a dolly, because I don't have a wheel on my tongue jack). You might be surprised what you can move. It appears that in Europe, tongue jacks normally have wheels and the trailer bodies have handles on the corners, and moving them by hand is normal.
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Old 08-18-2013, 03:17 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by Mike Magee View Post
You can go to Harbor Freight store (if you have one nearby) or a trailer repair shop and get a new jack that pivots up out of the way.
Yes, that works, and I think many people use them for the very reason that Judi might need one.

On the other hand, a side-mounted swing-up jack seems like more complication, more stuff in the way on the side of the tongue, and more to go wrong. If the top part of an A-frame jack isn't in the way (of a tow vehicle hatch, for instance), I think it's a better design.
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Old 08-18-2013, 03:22 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by Roger C H View Post
I had somewhat the same problem. I added a spacer where the three bolts hold the jack to the a-frame. If all you need is an inch and a half or less, this should work.
I think this is a great solution, achieving the same result as buying the same length of jack with a differently positioned flange, or having the flange moved on an existing jack. As with any fixed vertical jack, you have to watch that after raising the top of the jack doesn't interfere with a tow vehicle hatch or anything else, but if there is clearance it's a brilliant low-cost and functional fix.
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Old 08-18-2013, 11:25 PM   #37
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Smile Scamp Manual

According to the Scamp Manual,

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/d...campManual.pdf

the ball height on the tow vehicle for a 13' should be 18".
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Old 08-18-2013, 11:29 PM   #38
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Our new 13' Scamp did not come with a wheel and we wanted the flexibility to push the trailer and inch or two in each direction when parked on the firm asphalt or cement surface. My husband bought and installed a wheel like this Amazon.com: Curt 28276 Jack Caster Assembly: Automotive. We remove it every time we tow and install it before we unhitch the trailer when parked. It serves us well.
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Old 08-19-2013, 03:21 AM   #39
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Name: Judi
Trailer: 16' scamp standard side diner
Indiana
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That's weird it says 18". I have a copy of the manual from the web specs and it nearly says 16" for 1:' and 20" for 16'. (I have 16' but 24 or even 2"' was way too high as everything I read says trailer should be level. I have a very low riding hitch on my Subaru.
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Old 08-19-2013, 08:04 AM   #40
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Trailer: 1973 Hunter Compact II
California
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I looked at the Swing Away jack at HF as a solution to my problem with the Hunter (see post #24 above) and deemed it a little to cheesy for support when parked and using the trailer. Others may differ......
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Old 08-19-2013, 08:12 AM   #41
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Originally Posted by Bob Miller View Post
I looked at the Swing Away jack at HF as a solution to my problem with the Hunter (see post #24 above) and deemed it a little to cheesy for support when parked and using the trailer. Others may differ......
When using one of these type jacks your stabilizers are a lot more important to keep the trailer still, if your unit does not have them in the front, I'd suggest using the screw up ones sold at HF in conjunction with this jack, works fine.
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Old 08-19-2013, 08:31 AM   #42
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Name: Harry
Trailer: 7/24/13...ordered a 2014 13 ft Scamp w/Shower/Toilet
Alabama
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
The current height for a stock Scamp may be 18", but I have no idea what it is for Judi's Scamp. My much larger 1979 Boler 1700 is at 16", and an early Scamp - especially a 13' model - would have likely been lower.

You need the right height for your specific trailer.
Brian...you touched on something I am learning about. Like Judi, this is a newer experience for me. I have a 13ft Scamp being delivered in Oct. I have a 2013 jeep Wrangler with the tow pkg. I was at Walmart yesterday looking at (need the right term here) the ball attached to the bar which goes into my receiver. It seems to me the one with a 2" drop would work. Before buying, I thought I would ask on this forum as it deals with hitch heights. I came home and measured my receiver from the ground. It is 19 1/4 " from the center of the receiver opening to the ground. I have read where it is good for the trailer to slightly drop for proper towing. Like Judi experienced, to high and it will sway. I need to get this prior to delivery but cannot find any information with specific heights etc. thanks for any advice.
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