New roof vent installation - boler - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-08-2013, 01:41 PM   #1
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Name: Jack
Trailer: Boler
British Columbia
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New roof vent installation - boler

My Boler reno is now onto replacing the cracked roof vent. It has been removed and the roof has been scraped of old tape and cleaned up. The new vent however has screw holes in different places than the old one.

So should I drill new holes in the fiberglass roof....or should I drill holes in the plastic vent frame to match the old vent holes? Either way, should I plug up any un-used holes with some sort of sealant....or will the butyl tape and ProFlex caulking take care of it.

Also, the old vent was screwed (although some of the screws missed or came out) into a wooden frame flush to the ceiling. Should I go this route or use nuts and bolts instead?

Thanks!!!
J
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Old 08-13-2013, 08:24 PM   #2
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Name: Chris
Trailer: Boler
Alberta
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I filled the old holes in the Boler, and drilled new ones when I installed the vent. It worked great. Since I used Butyl tape the old hole are sure to be sealed.
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Old 08-13-2013, 09:11 PM   #3
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Name: Randy
Trailer: 1980Trillium 1300
Ontario
Posts: 355
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Originally Posted by kingjac View Post
My Boler reno is now onto replacing the cracked roof vent. It has been removed and the roof has been scraped of old tape and cleaned up. The new vent however has screw holes in different places than the old one.

So should I drill new holes in the fiberglass roof....or should I drill holes in the plastic vent frame to match the old vent holes? Either way, should I plug up any un-used holes with some sort of sealant....or will the butyl tape and ProFlex caulking take care of it.

Also, the old vent was screwed (although some of the screws missed or came out) into a wooden frame flush to the ceiling. Should I go this route or use nuts and bolts instead?

Thanks!!!
J
...I got the same problem like yours, Buddy. My old vent was installed back-ward by me and during a camping trip on HW, the wind blew it wide open, resulting a broken lifting lever. After buying the new vent, it is not the same but actually smaller. I did a proper work like someone said, with butyl tape and drill new holes on fiberglass roof, NOT in the plastic vent and cover the old holes with body filler. After install the new vent, I give it a test with garden hose and after recent few rainy days without a single drop of leak. Tomorrow it will be sunny I will complete painting the edge to match with the new painted trailer...Share with you my photos:...One more thing, when install the old vent I used aluminum rivets but alter the method with the new vent. Using aluminum screws with wood molding from inside(underneath) it secures WAY, WAY better...
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Old 08-14-2013, 12:36 PM   #4
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Name: Jack
Trailer: Boler
British Columbia
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Thanks for the help. I drilled new holes in the fiberglass, and filled in the old ones with dabs of epoxy resin. Way easier than trying to drill holes in a plastic frame. I used butyl tape with a caulking cap, and also a wooden frame inside. I used stainless steel screws. It all went smoothly and it was easy to do. Looks great and is waterproof.
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Old 08-14-2013, 04:59 PM   #5
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Name: Randy
Trailer: 1980Trillium 1300
Ontario
Posts: 355
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Originally Posted by kingjac View Post
Thanks for the help. I drilled new holes in the fiberglass, and filled in the old ones with dabs of epoxy resin. Way easier than trying to drill holes in a plastic frame. I used butyl tape with a caulking cap, and also a wooden frame inside. I used stainless steel screws. It all went smoothly and it was easy to do. Looks great and is waterproof.
Congrat. for your work. Here are my photos to share..New vent before blow in to match roof paint and after....Last step for roof vent is...A MAKE-SHIFT ROOF FAN....,COST ZERO DOLLARS AS RESULT OF SALVAGE FROM OTHER STUFFS...
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