New Scamp - Fiberglass RV


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Old 01-14-2015, 10:02 PM   #1
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Name: Terry
Trailer: Scamp 13
Illinois
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New Scamp

I made a cold trip to Minnesota last week and ordered my new Scamp 13; delivery date April 1st. Special thank you to all of the Forum members who gave suggestions and help on choosing the right options.

Question: When I sold my last trailer I kept the hitch and sway bar, is there any need to install the sway bar on my new Scamp? The trailer has brakes and I tow with a F 150.

Thanks, Terry M.
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Old 01-15-2015, 03:34 AM   #2
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Name: Darrell
Trailer: Scamp 16ft
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Probably not necessary towing with F150, I use one with my tow vehicle, 05 Wrangler Unlimited pulling 16 Deluxe Scamp. I would probably not need it if I was towing with my Cherokee length and weight of it would eliminate any potential problems. Have you towed a trailer with your truck? I did have a 6×10 box trailer it towed worse than my Scamp when loaded.
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Old 01-15-2015, 04:45 AM   #3
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Name: Ted
Trailer: (Dark side)Crossroads Now
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I agree you shouldn't need it. But keep it until new Scamp arrives, then you can see how it feels. Pulled a 16' Scamp before the 19' using my Colorado with no sway problems. Congrats on the new unit and welcome to FGRV.
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Old 01-15-2015, 09:11 AM   #4
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Name: Terry
Trailer: Scamp 13
Illinois
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My last trailer weighed 5000+ pounds, came with an equalizing hitch and I towed it with a GMC diesel PU. I used the sway bar because it came with the purchase. My only experience when towing a light trailer, without a sway bar, is when towing my SeaDoo. No problems but wind or 18 wheelers don't effect it at all. I was just curious if anyone towing a small Scamp saw any benefit to the sway bar. I will be towing over the Rockies. TM
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Old 01-15-2015, 10:41 AM   #5
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Name: Ron
Trailer: 2015 Oliver Legacy Elite II - Hull #69
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I doubt you will need an anti-sway bar with this short trailer hooked to a full size truck.

Just a word of warning to others out there - be cautious about using any WDH bars with these small trailers. They come in sizes depending on the anticipated tongue weight. If you use a bar made for a high load on the trailer with a much lighter tongue weight, it will essentially have no give to it and could cause alot of damage to the trailer's frame.

So if you are transferring an old WDH and sway setup to a new trailer, you may have to purchase different loading bars more attuned to your current tongue weight. Usually you can find replacement bars online or at a local hitch shop depending on your brand.
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Old 01-15-2015, 11:10 AM   #6
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Trailer: 2015 Scamp 13 Front Washroom, Little Guy Teardrop
Ontario
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We had a Scamp 13 with front washroom we towed with a 2007 Silverado and had no sway bar and never swayed

Sent from my XT1028 using Fiberglass RV mobile app
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Old 01-15-2015, 11:45 AM   #7
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Name: Carol
Trailer: 22' Airstream Formerly 16' Scamp
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry M View Post

Question: When I sold my last trailer I kept the hitch and sway bar, is there any need to install the sway bar on my new Scamp? The trailer has brakes and I tow with a F 150.

Thanks, Terry M.

Keep it! I pulled my Scamp with a much smaller vehicle for 6 years thousands of miles through lots of bad weather and never used one and never felt I needed one ... that was until I switched to pulling with my current truck.

I have worked hard at fine tuning my current set up. Both in the stowage of gear inside the trailer and in changing the hardware on the hitch side in order to get a nice solid tow that I was previously accustom to. Even with those changes I know that under certain conditions such as traveling at 65mph and a steady side wind that the trailer feels more wiggly behind the truck than it did with my previous smaller/lighter tow vehicle. With all the changes I have made it now feels solid when passed by a big truck (which it did not the first time I towed with the truck) but even with the changes I have made it still can at times feel a bit wiggly to me, so I have added an anti sway bar to my set up on the chance that it *may* help me out a little should the trailer decide to do a big wag one day.

Since switching to pulling with the truck I have started to pay more attention when on the road to trucks I see pulling smaller/lighter trailers. Find it interesting as to how many of those trailers are doing what I would call a serious wiggle (way morel than my set up) and the driver seems to be oblivious to it.... can't help but wonder if its simple they think that is just how it is and the norm or perhaps they have never pulled with a vehicle that has provided a much more solid tow than that so they have no idea what a it should feel like or look like!

There are many different components/measurements that go into getting a good solid tow and simple towing with a large heavy truck is not necesarly the quick fix for it that I have noted that many here seem to believe it is!
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Old 01-15-2015, 11:53 AM   #8
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Trailer: Scamp 16
Michigan
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Terry, I have a much smaller and lighter tug (Subaru Forester) and basically the same trailer / model you have with no sway bar. I tried to induce a sway, wiggling the steering wheel at slow speeds, and working my way up to towing speeds of 60-65 MPH. I couldn't get the Scamp to sway at all. It seems very solid and tracks like a dream. I'm careful to load the trailer with the majority of the weight over the axle and as low as possible.

As long as you don't put anything heavy on the rear bike rack receiver hitch, you should be fine. Good luck!

Tom
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Old 01-15-2015, 12:05 PM   #9
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Terry, I have a much smaller and lighter tug (Subaru Forester) and basically the same trailer / model you have with no sway bar.
that was the case with my old Subaru Outback as well, as mention above not the case with my larger, heavier truck!
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Old 01-15-2015, 12:44 PM   #10
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Trailer: 1973 Hunter Compact II
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New Scamp

Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry M View Post
I made a cold trip to Minnesota last week and ordered my new Scamp 13; delivery date April 1st. Special thank you to all of the Forum members who gave suggestions and help on choosing the right options.

Question: When I sold my last trailer I kept the hitch and sway bar, is there any need to install the sway bar on my new Scamp? The trailer has brakes and I tow with a F 150.

Thanks, Terry M.
You might want to get numbers from SCAMP as to desired hitch height and be sure you have the correct amount of drop on your drawbar/hitch ball. Especially when empty, these light trailers can get some ground effects lift when towed high in front and get a little squirrely. Best to be level or slightly low in front.
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Old 01-15-2015, 01:13 PM   #11
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Name: Darral
Trailer: Scamp Standard 13' 2010
Tennessee
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I pull a fully-loaded 13' Scamp (apx 1800 lbs loaded for travel). My TV is a 1999 Nissan Frontier with a 4cyl Manual tranny. I pull on the bumper! The nose is slightly high...maybe 2-3 degrees? I do not, have not, will not use a sway bar. With the round curves of the 13' and as short as it is, IF you get sway then you have a problem with the tongue/hitch weight which should be 10-15% of your total weight. My tongue weight is (or was before removing the propane tank) 225 lbs or apx 13%. With the propane removed, I still have never had any sway with my small truck.

Coming from Backus when it was brand new, I pulled in 30+ mph crosswinds near Chicago, Ill. Barely felt the Scamp...no more "push" on my truck with the Scamp in tow than it was without it. I knew then, we had a SWEET towing camper...and it is. You will LOVE the "no feel". BUT, that can be a negative--- how? You can forget it's back there!!
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Old 01-15-2015, 01:48 PM   #12
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Those that are even thinking about towing with a factory bumper hitch, first check in the manual and stamped on the bumper itself. I don't know of any that have the same rating as the chassis towing limits


For example, the 1994 Hard Body Nissan V6/5speed I often drive, while rated similar in towing capacity, is only rated for 1000 lbs x 150 lbs on the factory bumper hitch, it's stamped right in the metal. Others may be higher, but always check/ask/verify.
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Old 01-15-2015, 02:56 PM   #13
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Name: Terry
Trailer: Scamp 13
Illinois
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Thanks for the info. I plan on pulling it back from Backus without the sway bar to see how it pulls, mainly because I don't want to install the trailer end bracket in the parking lot. When I get home and since I have the sway bar I will probably install it, if it doesn't help it takes 30 seconds to remove and throw in the bed. As for the hitch I am not using the equalizing bars only the hitch. I need to drop my ball down about 6 inches to get the proper 16 1/2 - 18 inch tongue height, so I need the adjustable drop hitch. I ask Wayne at Scamp and he said that they recommend sway control on the 16 footers but said since I have the sway bar to go ahead and give it a try.
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Old 01-15-2015, 03:09 PM   #14
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Trailer: '88 Scamp 16, layout 4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Miller View Post
Those that are even thinking about towing with a factory bumper hitch, first check in the manual and stamped on the bumper itself. I don't know of any that have the same rating as the chassis towing limits

For example, the 1994 Hard Body Nissan V6/5speed I often drive, while rated similar in towing capacity, is only rated for 1000 lbs x 150 lbs on the factory bumper hitch, it's stamped right in the metal. Others may be higher, but always check/ask/verify.
My F-150's bumper says the exact same weights as the frame mounted Reese hitch I installed. If the bumper was not too high I would just tow the Scamp off it. But with the Scamp backed off a little because of the receiver hitch does allow me drop the tailgate while still hooked up!
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