New Scamp door hinges installed but...

[RogerDat]

I can not visually detect any difference in the hinges between each other or the ones they replace. Yet the door while still level seems to have repositioned the door lower by about 1/4 inch (.63 cm for our metric neighbors).

I'm puzzled. I would expect new socket of hinge and new brass ball would have raised things a touch or at least remained the same height. The hinges replaced were old (35+ years) but the ball and bolt were replaced a couple of years ago.

Anyone else seen this type of thing with new Scamp door hinges?

Oh and I am hoping that some butyl tape behind those hinges will deal with a persistent leak on the hinge side of the door. Of course it rained off and on while I replaced the hinges, but stopped just as I finished so no natural test yet.

Also time for new door seal, going after the black foam stuff 1/2 x 3/4 people have reported finding at Lowes. Does that stick out from behind the door when the door is closed?

Do you go over or outside the trim? And do you curve to follow the top of the door or just cut that as a "cap" applied above the foam running down the sides?

Also replaced the butyl tape sealing the above the door rain guard. Those tiny rivets were a pain. Slid a wire through the hole with a bent end to turn the remains of the rivet sideways and shove them aside, seems to work ok. I can tell that they are there don't think anyone else (dear wife) will notice them trapped under the ensolite. Doing it over I think I would drill to match the sleeve more in order to remove more of the old rivet as shavings. Just an observation.

Windows getting re-bedded in butyl tape as soon as weather and time permits. Then couch goes back in. Tired of that front dance floor, nice storage lousy seat.

[RogerDat]

Was getting much less water with butyl tape behind hinges but still some. Was trying to figure out where it was coming from. Was in the camper while it was raining and trying to scope out behind the ensolite had a drop fall on my hand!


It was the door seal along the top of the door. Curved wall top dripped a bit out from the bottom of the door. Replaced the seal with the 1/2 x 3/4 foam and that took care of the last little bit of leak.

[emij]

Interesting to hear about the new door hinges. We will be replacing ours this fall as we've noticed that after each camping trip, ours seems to "droop" after using the door. We tighten them up, the door sneaks back into place, then droops again during the next trip. I'm hoping replacing the hinges helps this, but don't think I'll like having it be lower as we striped our door so it is really easy to see when it gets out of whack. Our hinges are old, too, as our Scamp is a 1982, so they are just worn out. I'll report back if we have the same problem with new hinges, too.

[RogerDat]

Emily
If your hinges are the cast aluminum ones like this. Hardware : Pair Of Outside Door Hinges

Then you might find replacing just the hinge pin is sufficient. Could buy the hinges and try out the new pin.

I would start with the pin because unless the hole that the hinge pin goes through is worn oval or the holes in the fiberglass that the hinges attach through are allowing movement I don't see how the door can sag. Hinge pins have to move or hinge has to move for door to move.

You can also buy the hinge pins alone http://www.scamptrailers.com/parts-s...lt-detail.html Sort of a waste if you end up buying the hinges too.

Or the bottom corner of door frame where FG shell attaches to floor and frame has rotted which will allow door to sag. Mine the door was showing down on the latch side. Door opening was spreading at the bottom. Edge of door opening was no longer 90* angle from floor on hinge side when checked with large framing square. All a result of the leaks I am now fixing.

[emij]

Originally Posted by RogerDat

Emily
If your hinges are the cast aluminum ones like this. Hardware : Pair Of Outside Door Hinges

Then you might find replacing just the hinge pin is sufficient. Could buy the hinges and try out the new pin.

I would start with the pin because unless the hole that the hinge pin goes through is worn oval or the holes in the fiberglass that the hinges attach through are allowing movement I don't see how the door can sag. Hinge pins have to move or hinge has to move for door to move.

You can also buy the hinge pins alone Hardware : Door Hinge Repair Kit (Brass Ball, Spring, Nut & Bolt) Sort of a waste if you end up buying the hinges too.

Or the bottom corner of door frame where FG shell attaches to floor and frame has rotted which will allow door to sag. Mine the door was showing down on the latch side. Door opening was spreading at the bottom. Edge of door opening was no longer 90* angle from floor on hinge side when checked with large framing square. All a result of the leaks I am now fixing.

I think you are right, that it is just the hinge pin. Everything else is tight, including where the hinges attach to the door (both inside and out) without any door rot or door frame issues. It seems like a wear issue on the hinge pin, as when we tighten it, it stays until we open and close the door a lot, then it begins to loosen and sag. Thank you for the input!!

[RogerDat]

Might just be the jamb nut. The nut should have a nylon sleeve in it at one end, causes the nut to "lock" when tightened. Over time that may have worn or could even have been replaced with a non-locking nut. Spring pushes in direction of looser - gravity helps, vibrations do the rest.

Might try just going to a hardware store with the old nut and asking for a "nylock" nut in that size. They can try your nut on a bolt to find the right size/threads and then sell you a couple of 25 cent nuts. Might take care of it working loose.

[emij]

Originally Posted by RogerDat

Might just be the jamb nut. The nut should have a nylon sleeve in it at one end, causes the nut to "lock" when tightened. Over time that may have worn or could even have been replaced with a non-locking nut. Spring pushes in direction of looser - gravity helps, vibrations do the rest.

Might try just going to a hardware store with the old nut and asking for a "nylock" nut in that size. They can try your nut on a bolt to find the right size/threads and then sell you a couple of 25 cent nuts. Might take care of it working loose.

Such good info! Thank you SO MUCH! I think I'll check the hardware store for a new nut, first. There doesn't seem to be a nylon sleeve at all, so perhaps it was replaced with a non locking nut at some point. Thank you!

[RogerDat]

Hopefully it works out. Here is a picture of one I got from google image search for nylock nut. The nylon bit may be different color but it is what "locks" the nut. Tends to wear out after being loosened and tightened multiple times too.

[ArneB]

I've completed the filling and sanding on my 1974 Boler. Before painting I'd like to get the door fitting as well as possible and prep the door for paint.



I bought new hinge pins and copper balls from Scamp. I'm finding the door binds when the hinge pins are inserted. Is this an alignment issue with the hinges? Do I need to replace the hinges? If my memory is correct the old hinge pins were smaller in diameter. Should I use a similar size ?*
I'm also finding that the door doesn't provide adequate clearance with the belly band. One member did say that new hinges proved good clearance.*
I'm also wondering if hinge location is important??????

[Ian G.]

Here is everything you want to know about Boler/Scamp Door Hinges & Adjustments but really didn't care about (click on the link). I find most hinge pivot bolts are tightened far too much, there should be AT LEAST a speace between the spring coils equal to the diameter of the spring wire. The hinges articulate and tightening the bolts too tight will cause the hinge to bind and results in the fiberglass cracking around the mounting bolts.

[ArneB]

Ian thanks for the information. I'll take a look at it.
The problem I'm having it the hinge bolt is interfering with the movement of the door without the nut or spring in place. Yet when I bought the trailer the door motion was fine with the original hinge pin. Unfortunately I've only kept the old hinge balls. It's al,pst like the diameter of the hinge bolt is too big.

Thanks again Ian. I'll read your information.

[ArneB]

I just went to Home Depot and bought a 3/16x2 bolt as a pivot bolt and the door opened and closed fine. It appears as thought the bolt I received from Scamp is too large for these old hinges. At the moment I'm inclined to fiberglass all the bolt holes in the door and wall and replace with new hinges. They aren't pricey and might be money well spent.


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[RogerDat]

Originally Posted by ArneB

I just went to Home Depot and bought a 3/16x2 bolt as a pivot bolt and the door opened and closed fine. It appears as thought the bolt I received from Scamp is too large for these old hinges. At the moment I'm inclined to fiberglass all the bolt holes in the door and wall and replace with new hinges. They aren't pricey and might be money well spent.


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Because of the curved hull shape the hinge needs the ball and spring to allow alignment with wall when closed and still able to open and swing through a 90* angle to the hinges. Door closed and door sticking straight out require a hinge with some "play" to accommodate it.

Those look like a boler door and scamp hinge parts not being a perfect match is not a surprise. Sounds like a trip to the hardware store resolved the issue.

If I was going to remove, plug holes and replace prior to painting I would think about just going with the scamp 3 bolt hinge because it is more readily available than a boler 2 bolt.

Worth talking to the folks that have been there & done that, sometimes stuff that looks straight forward has a hidden gotcha.

[ArneB]

Originally Posted by RogerDat

Because of the curved hull shape the hinge needs the ball and spring to allow alignment with wall when closed and still able to open and swing through a 90* angle to the hinges. Door closed and door sticking straight out require a hinge with some "play" to accommodate it.

Those look like a boler door and scamp hinge parts not being a perfect match is not a surprise. Sounds like a trip to the hardware store resolved the issue.

If I was going to remove, plug holes and replace prior to painting I would think about just going with the scamp 3 bolt hinge because it is more readily available than a boler 2 bolt.

Worth talking to the folks that have been there & done that, sometimes stuff that looks straight forward has a hidden gotcha.

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[ArneB]

There certainly is more to the hinges than meets the eye. I'm going to do as you've just suggested. Buy the scamp hinges with the three bolts. I just finished fiberglassing all of the bolt holes. One question that did cross my mind while fiberglassing is "WHAT ARE THE MEASURNENTS FOR LOCATING THE NEW SCAMP HINGES ON THE DOOR?"I'm sure position on door is critical.


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[RogerDat]

While scamp and boler doors are not identical I will measure the spacing of the hinges of my scamp.

I think you are correct have to be located on the curve at points that both allow door to seal and fully open.

I would measure the top bolt and hinge line of your existing hinges on both the door and door frame as a reference. A starting point to compare against the scamp measurements.

[ArneB]

I will take some measurement.
Thank you!


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