New Suburban heater Did Nothing when electrified. - Fiberglass RV
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Old 11-05-2018, 03:37 AM   #1
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New Suburban heater Did Nothing when electrified.

I spent hours yesterday installing a new ES 16, Suburban furnace and thermostat, in my Casita camper yesterday and when I put the power to it, NOTHING HAPPEND?
Does it matter how thermostat is hooked up?
I have 12.7 volts on wires I hooked up to.
Red to Power, Yellow to ground, Blue to thermostate.
One blue wire had positive sticker on it, Does it matter where in the thermostat this is hooked up?
HELP!
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Old 11-05-2018, 06:32 AM   #2
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Did you install a NT SEQ-16? Do you have at least 12VDC going to your furnace thermostat? If not check fuse. The furnace will not run on low battery voltage. IF so you can just jumper the two thermostat wires to make it start its start cycle (fan starts running). Manual thermostat: Lever off of off detent and set to high temp setting. Is the cabin temp. lower than thermostat setting? In the summer or in a shop you may have to turn on your trailer A/C to get the furnace to work. Digital Thermostat: Did you install a battery if required? Just a few simple things to check.
The 12v input wire ties directly the thermostat 12v+ wire in the furnace. The thermostat is just a switch that sends the voltage to the control board.
Eddie
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Old 11-05-2018, 06:53 AM   #3
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Did you double check to make sure after making connections you still had 12v on the red wire? It is easy to accidentally short the positive and take out the fuse. Also you can substitute a bulb in the circuit to make sure the ground is capable of carrying voltage. If the ground wire is connected somewhere that is not a good connection it can show ground for a meter but when a real current tries to flow it can't handle the amperage. Try connecting a headlight bulb between the 12v+ and the 12v- if it lights bright your circuit is good.
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Old 11-05-2018, 08:36 AM   #4
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There is a switch on my furnace; it this switch is off, the furnace will not do anything. It is located on the right side, part way back. You may need a mirror to see the switch.



--Dan Meyer
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Old 11-05-2018, 09:55 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by Dan Meyer View Post
There is a switch on my furnace; it this switch is off, the furnace will not do anything. It is located on the right side, part way back. You may need a mirror to see the switch.



--Dan Meyer
Thanks Dan: this was the problem but now can anyone enlighten me about
Why the furnace when it comes up to temp, the fan will keep running for a long time, like 5 minutes, blowing cold air into the cabin.
I know it suppose to clear gas and fumes out of chamber but this is ridiculous.
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Old 11-05-2018, 10:16 AM   #6
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My guess is that for efficiency's sake the blower is running to extract the last bit of heat from the furnace's heat exchanger. Along with that, the blower helps equalize room temperature to eliminate the cold spots like a radiant heater would have. Depending on thermostat location, it could increase the time until it cycles back on, saving propane, but not electricity.

BTW, the blower fan on a gas forced air furnace should have little effect on gas fumes. Presumably they draft up or out the chimney.
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Old 11-05-2018, 12:07 PM   #7
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The older Suburban, an ES 12 would run for maybe 1 minute tops before fan would shut off after a heat cycle.

Do you think that the anticipator on the thermostat is junk. I do have another new and also the old T-stat so I will give them a try.
Thanks
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Old 11-05-2018, 06:42 PM   #8
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It could be the heat anticipator. Some or all are adjustable. I have some experience, but not expertise.
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Old 11-05-2018, 06:46 PM   #9
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Tom, I see this item on the schematics but to get to anything on the circuit board is impossible. Thanks anyway.
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Old 11-06-2018, 04:12 AM   #10
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Tom, if your talking about the anticipator on thermostat, I have it set on the recommended setting. Thinking I will swap out thermostat today and see what happens, We need to get this done so we can cover for winter here in Maine, or wait till spring.
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Old 11-10-2018, 04:45 AM   #11
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Good news, It worked fine.
I usually try to tweak one thing then try it to see if it worked but was in a bit of a rush and I did 2 recommended things.
1- I had to cut the intake air tube so the furnace would fit in space allowed, This made the crimp on end of tube not fit tight from furnace tube and escusion tube, so I packed this 1/4 space with fireproof gasket material.
2 - I turned on both my LP gas bottles.
I don't know which one made the difference but Furnace came on and ran for 15 minutes before I turned T-stat down to simulate it being satisfied, and burner went out and the fans only ran 2 minutes then shut off.
I now can finish getting all the tools and some other camping stuff out of it and cover it for winter.
I am sure I will have to again tweak things in the Spring but that goes with most all trailers I have owned over the years.
Thanks for all the ideas.
Gerry
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