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Old 12-07-2014, 07:23 PM   #15
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To Kootenai Girl,
How do you add curtains and their rods without putting holes in the fiberglass? Personally I like the curtain rods, for the most part, as I like curtains to personalize my trailer. I agree that there are a TON of rivets, though.
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Old 12-07-2014, 07:46 PM   #16
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Escape fiberglasses blocks of wood to the shell during the build and attaches things like curtain rods to the blocks with screws. Simple really.
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Old 12-07-2014, 08:35 PM   #17
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Welcome Terry! We went to Backus last January to talk to the salesman and place an order. I did exactly what you're doing. I read all I could find about the options in this forum, and did the deed. We ordered the same options you mentioned, but added A/C and an awning later because our daughter moved to FL and we see it coming in handy. I would advise you get extra 12v and 110a/c outlets, even though you don't need them where you go now. It doesn't add much to the cost, but when you find out how much fun the little campers are, you will want to go everywhere. We use our outside 110a/c outlet daily for cooking on a hotplate, plugging in a radio, awning lights, etc. Recommend extra light fixtures as well. Change the bulbs to LED when you can to use much less current when boon docking. We went with the larger bed and are glad we did. Good choice.

I'd gladly show you ours, but it would be quite a haul from S. IL to Chicagoland. Ours is under a cover in an outside storage lot now anyway.

Ck your weather before you leave for Backus. We left in a blizzard and -20 temp. It was the first time I heard the term "Polar Vortex". It was still a fun trip. Good luck!

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Old 12-08-2014, 06:58 PM   #18
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scamp 13

Tom,
Thanks for the offer to tour your camper and if you were closer I would take you up on it. However, I would really feel more comfortable if I go to the factory and talk to them face to face and, if we get a 4 day weather window after the holidays we will probably make a trip to Backus. Talked to Wayne today and he is going to send me some contacts in the 618; 217; 812; and 270 area codes; I am in no rush as we won't need the trailer until April. It sounds like you have the same layout as we are planning to order and I am still undecided about a few of the options. Would you mind if I give you a call (Wayne gave me your #). Terry
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Old 12-08-2014, 08:00 PM   #19
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Terry, call me, check your private messages. (upper right corner)

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Old 12-08-2014, 11:34 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by Terry M View Post
Hello, I am a new member but not new to this great forum. I have been using the forum to help with outfitting the Scamp camper we are planning to order. We go to Utah a couple of times a year to go 4 wheeling and hike and we are looking at the Scamp as a replacement for our tent. Therefore, we are going to keep it simple – 13 ft. with the Standard package. Options: outside outlet and porch light, additional 120 volt and 12 volt interior outlets, brakes, vinyl floor, vent fan, group 27 battery and 54 inch bed. Furnace maybe, but no A/C and no bathroom, the places we camp don’t have electricity and a $5 shower every 3 or 4 days seems to work. Let me know if I am leaving off any must have options or anything we need to delete from the Standard package, (city water/curtains?). We are going to try to make it to Backus before we place our order; probably a good idea since the only one we have seen was a 1984 that had been “personalized”. Any help appreciated, Terry.
I don't know why you would need the additional 120 volt outlets since you don't plan on camping places with electricity.
I recommend that you have the 3 way fridge and a furnace. Running the 3 way fridge on propane saves a lot of trips for ice.
You never know when a cold snap will hit while you're out. We got caught in some very cold weather in TX, the furnace was a must at that point in time. Much of the time it's really nice to have. We use light weight sleeping bags and the furnace thermostat is set to 50°-55°F. Works for us.

You can go to Backus or ask them if there's somebody close to show theirs. Phone calls are cheap and Scamp likes doing business over the phone.
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Old 12-08-2014, 11:40 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Gilda View Post
To Kootenai Girl,
How do you add curtains and their rods without putting holes in the fiberglass? Personally I like the curtain rods, for the most part, as I like curtains to personalize my trailer. I agree that there are a TON of rivets, though.
Ton of rivets = 16 in Scamp 13'. Also there's no stress on the curtain rod rivets and they're smaller than the other rivets used. There's more problems with the roof vent/escape hatch rivets than any others from my own experience and what others have said.

This is another area where some people like to obsess about, let's see Scamp has been building Scamps for 40 years at least. Doesn't seem to be a major problem. Ahh,, Another phantom problem.

Yes Gilda, I agree, I like my curtains.
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Old 12-09-2014, 08:58 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman View Post
Ton of rivets = 16 in Scamp 13'...

Mine has 24, including 8 on the door. If I were ordering new, I'd probably at least consider leaving them off, but Byron's right. It's a non-issue in terms of leaks. Aesthetics... that's a personal call.

If you leave them off, you have to rig up some alternative yourself. There are good ideas on old threads, but most people buying a brand new trailer just want to camp.
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Old 12-09-2014, 12:05 PM   #23
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Welcome! Smart to do some research so you get what you want and need.

Having had and not had them I think city water and/or water pump can be useful. My scamp does not have them and I'm fine with that but given a choice would much rather use the pump to draw water out of the on board tank for dish washing and save my 6 gallon orange water jug for drinking water.

Just because I mostly boondock don't mean I always do. Having that outside outlet avoids running a second extension cord from power hookup to the picnic table when in a state park with power. I also like "extra" interior outlets. They add flexibility and convenience at a low cost.

Awnings annoy me. Sooner or later they break and can cost a lot to fix, seems like they all have to be "tended" to prevent storm damage. I am becoming a fan of some poles and a tarp. Either nylon or cheap poly tarp. Or the sub $100 fiberglass pole shade canopies. If they break no big deal, if I find I want one larger or smaller easy to change.

Been putting up tarps for decades when camping so don't consider it a big deal to do it with a camper. Mostly go someplace, park and camp for a few days. If you do a lot of one night stop overs when traveling the built in canopy can probably save you some set up and take down time which might make it more desirable.

One way or another some shade is a must for comfort, staying out of the rain while in the "open air room" of a Scamp 13 is pretty nice too.

Propane furnace for sure. If it saves a couple of trips it will be worth it to you, and resale it is almost an expected option.
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Old 12-09-2014, 06:17 PM   #24
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scamp 13 options and curtains

Thanks for all of the options help, 90% of the time we camp where there is no electric but we also camp a couple of times a year in State Parks so I will probably get the A/C outlets. Pretty much decided to get the furnace, a couple of times while tent camping in Utah we have sat in the truck to warm up after a cold night so a furnace sounds like a good option. As for the curtains, I will probably make that decision after I look at a camper. We have rat-fur on our boat and attach our curtains with Velcro - just sew the hook half to the curtains and stick it on the carpet/rat-fur. Don't know if that will work on a scamp but it works really well on the boat. I had planned on getting the hatch/vent with the fan but Scamp told me the hatch is an option and I can exclude it. Is there a leaking problem with the hatch? Thanks, Terry
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Old 12-09-2014, 08:55 PM   #25
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Long time browser, first post

We are Kansas residents, and purchased a new Scamp 16 earlier this year, self contained, side dinette, upgraded frig, but without AC. Wanted a Scamp years ago, but another kid came along, and we had to go with a larger trailer. Now an old geezer with spouse and dog. In between have had 3 pop ups, 2 regular pull behinds, and one 5th wheel. There have been some complaints with the Scamp, and purchasing experience, but over all I like it. No extra mirrors to install on the Jeep, Get 14 mpg at 65 mph, and can make a U turn on most 2 lane roads without backing up. And usually have no trouble finding a place to park. On this site I got the idea to put a regular house window AC under the frig. and it works great. Found one that blows the air upward, instead of straight out on the floor.

I restore and ride vintage Suzuki dirt bikes, and can haul 2. One across the tongue, and one on a hitch rack on the back. It does require a sway control adjusted tight, but have traveled hundreds of miles that way. Was glad to see others make the trek to Moab, Ut. Have gone there the last 5 years with Jeep and bike. Often stopping by Silverton or Ouray, Co. for those Jeep trails. Maybe some group trail rides could be arranged??
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Old 12-09-2014, 09:00 PM   #26
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Ooops, thought I was starting a new thread in newcomers section. Jim
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Old 12-10-2014, 03:09 AM   #27
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Smile Velcro on rat fur

Terry, you are a new member, but I bet you just solved a lot of members' problems of how to attach curtains in a rig with rat fur.
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Old 12-10-2014, 09:11 AM   #28
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...I had planned on getting the hatch/vent with the fan but Scamp told me the hatch is an option and I can exclude it. Is there a leaking problem with the hatch?


There are two different hatches. One is an oversized hatch that doubles as an emergency escape. As far as I know, that one is standard on all models. I assume it's a mandatory safety feature. I like ours.



In addition, you can order a regular-sized vent with a 12V Fantastic fan as an option. Mine doesn't have one, but it would be on my short list if I were ordering a new trailer. I think would want it more toward the front of the trailer because there is less air circulation there at night since the front window doesn't open, and we usually sleep with the door closed.



As to leaking, all openings, including windows and vents, can leak eventually and need to be resealed with butyl tape periodically. That involves removing the hatch or window, replacing the old butyl, and reinstalling. (You will hear often on this site NOT to use silicon caulk.) I don't know how frequently it needs to be done- probably depends on a lot of factors, like how many miles you travel and on what kind of roads and how the trailer is stored and in what climate, etc. My trailer is 6 years old with no hatch or window issues yet.
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