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[Byron Kinnaman]

Originally Posted by Gilda

To Kootenai Girl,
How do you add curtains and their rods without putting holes in the fiberglass? Personally I like the curtain rods, for the most part, as I like curtains to personalize my trailer. I agree that there are a TON of rivets, though.

Ton of rivets = 16 in Scamp 13'. Also there's no stress on the curtain rod rivets and they're smaller than the other rivets used. There's more problems with the roof vent/escape hatch rivets than any others from my own experience and what others have said.

This is another area where some people like to obsess about, let's see Scamp has been building Scamps for 40 years at least. Doesn't seem to be a major problem. Ahh,, Another phantom problem.

Yes Gilda, I agree, I like my curtains.

[Jon in AZ]

Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman

Ton of rivets = 16 in Scamp 13'...

Mine has 24, including 8 on the door. If I were ordering new, I'd probably at least consider leaving them off, but Byron's right. It's a non-issue in terms of leaks. Aesthetics... that's a personal call.

If you leave them off, you have to rig up some alternative yourself. There are good ideas on old threads, but most people buying a brand new trailer just want to camp.

[RogerDat]

Welcome! Smart to do some research so you get what you want and need.

Having had and not had them I think city water and/or water pump can be useful. My scamp does not have them and I'm fine with that but given a choice would much rather use the pump to draw water out of the on board tank for dish washing and save my 6 gallon orange water jug for drinking water.

Just because I mostly boondock don't mean I always do. Having that outside outlet avoids running a second extension cord from power hookup to the picnic table when in a state park with power. I also like "extra" interior outlets. They add flexibility and convenience at a low cost.

Awnings annoy me. Sooner or later they break and can cost a lot to fix, seems like they all have to be "tended" to prevent storm damage. I am becoming a fan of some poles and a tarp. Either nylon or cheap poly tarp. Or the sub $100 fiberglass pole shade canopies. If they break no big deal, if I find I want one larger or smaller easy to change.

Been putting up tarps for decades when camping so don't consider it a big deal to do it with a camper. Mostly go someplace, park and camp for a few days. If you do a lot of one night stop overs when traveling the built in canopy can probably save you some set up and take down time which might make it more desirable.

One way or another some shade is a must for comfort, staying out of the rain while in the "open air room" of a Scamp 13 is pretty nice too.

Propane furnace for sure. If it saves a couple of trips it will be worth it to you, and resale it is almost an expected option.

[Terry M]

Thanks for all of the options help, 90% of the time we camp where there is no electric but we also camp a couple of times a year in State Parks so I will probably get the A/C outlets. Pretty much decided to get the furnace, a couple of times while tent camping in Utah we have sat in the truck to warm up after a cold night so a furnace sounds like a good option. As for the curtains, I will probably make that decision after I look at a camper. We have rat-fur on our boat and attach our curtains with Velcro - just sew the hook half to the curtains and stick it on the carpet/rat-fur. Don't know if that will work on a scamp but it works really well on the boat. I had planned on getting the hatch/vent with the fan but Scamp told me the hatch is an option and I can exclude it. Is there a leaking problem with the hatch? Thanks, Terry

[JIM Midway usa]

We are Kansas residents, and purchased a new Scamp 16 earlier this year, self contained, side dinette, upgraded frig, but without AC. Wanted a Scamp years ago, but another kid came along, and we had to go with a larger trailer. Now an old geezer with spouse and dog. In between have had 3 pop ups, 2 regular pull behinds, and one 5th wheel. There have been some complaints with the Scamp, and purchasing experience, but over all I like it. No extra mirrors to install on the Jeep, Get 14 mpg at 65 mph, and can make a U turn on most 2 lane roads without backing up. And usually have no trouble finding a place to park. On this site I got the idea to put a regular house window AC under the frig. and it works great. Found one that blows the air upward, instead of straight out on the floor.

I restore and ride vintage Suzuki dirt bikes, and can haul 2. One across the tongue, and one on a hitch rack on the back. It does require a sway control adjusted tight, but have traveled hundreds of miles that way. Was glad to see others make the trek to Moab, Ut. Have gone there the last 5 years with Jeep and bike. Often stopping by Silverton or Ouray, Co. for those Jeep trails. Maybe some group trail rides could be arranged??

[JIM Midway usa]

Ooops, thought I was starting a new thread in newcomers section. Jim

[Roger C H]

Terry, you are a new member, but I bet you just solved a lot of members' problems of how to attach curtains in a rig with rat fur.

[Jon in AZ]

Originally Posted by Terry M

...I had planned on getting the hatch/vent with the fan but Scamp told me the hatch is an option and I can exclude it. Is there a leaking problem with the hatch?

There are two different hatches. One is an oversized hatch that doubles as an emergency escape. As far as I know, that one is standard on all models. I assume it's a mandatory safety feature. I like ours.



In addition, you can order a regular-sized vent with a 12V Fantastic fan as an option. Mine doesn't have one, but it would be on my short list if I were ordering a new trailer. I think would want it more toward the front of the trailer because there is less air circulation there at night since the front window doesn't open, and we usually sleep with the door closed.



As to leaking, all openings, including windows and vents, can leak eventually and need to be resealed with butyl tape periodically. That involves removing the hatch or window, replacing the old butyl, and reinstalling. (You will hear often on this site NOT to use silicon caulk.) I don't know how frequently it needs to be done- probably depends on a lot of factors, like how many miles you travel and on what kind of roads and how the trailer is stored and in what climate, etc. My trailer is 6 years old with no hatch or window issues yet.

[Jon in AZ]

Originally Posted by Terry M

...As for the curtains, I will probably make that decision after I look at a camper. We have rat-fur on our boat and attach our curtains with Velcro - just sew the hook half to the curtains and stick it on the carpet/rat-fur. Don't know if that will work on a scamp but it works really well on the boat...

One issue I've read in others' posts is that over time velcro will raise the nap if it is frequently removed and reattached. I might use it on the door, since we rarely open those curtains.

Here's an option for the rear windows, since they have a metal frame, and get opened and closed a lot (see Donna D's post #11):
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...ons-40012.html

For the front window, I figured out quickly that curtains just get in the way if you use the upper bunk, so I leave the curtains and rod at home, and put up the gravel guard at night.

[Jon in AZ]

Thinking about vents and hatches brought something else to mind…

You do not need AC, but you might consider the AC prep option. It adds reinforcement to the roof to allow an AC unit to be added in the future (might include the 110V wiring, too). These trailers last a long time, and your needs (as well as possible future owners' needs) may change.

I've also heard the opening for the Fantastic fan is the same size as the opening for the AC unit. I'm wondering if it is possible to include the AC prep option and install the Fantastic fan where the AC goes. Then, later, if you or a new owner decides to install AC, you already have the hole, the reinforcement, and maybe the wiring.

I'm not sure if I'm making sense or thinking clearly… thoughts?

[Paul O.]

Originally Posted by Roger C H

Terry, you are a new member, but I bet you just solved a lot of members' problems of how to attach curtains in a rig with rat fur.

I would like to find out if other people have used Velcro on the rat fur and how well it worked out. I have been using it to hold in place blinds that reduce heat loss through the windows on cold nights. They may have been on/off a couple dozen times, counting usage and the time I was fitting them. A few lose threads came off the rat fur, but no change in how it feels or looks. Is this worth starting a separate thread?

[TomK]

Terry, without the A/C option, there is a rectangular fairly large escape hatch / vent in the ceiling. It is approximately in the center of the roof. If you opt for A/C, that hole is where the A/C unit is mounted. The Fantastic fan is normally mounted over the bed in a smaller square shaped hole. I believe they will install just a screen in that hole if you don't want that fan.

Personally, we would give up all the options in our trailer before we'd give up that fan over the bed. It makes all the difference in the world when trying to sleep on a hot night. We always use it as an exhaust fan. Heat rises and is whisked outside. Even on low (quiet) speed, it is very efficient in the little trailer and will exchange the warm air inside for the cool outside air very quickly. We regulate it by opening the rear and side windows and the fan pulls the cold air in right where you sleep. If you close those windows, you can get a less direct air exchange using the little window over the stove.

Although I can't imagine having too much of a moisture problem in Utah, the fiberglass trailers do need to be well ventilated to prevent moisture, especially when using the stove to boil water for coffee or tea, etc. The Fantastic fan works very well for that.

Our 2nd favorite option is the screen door. That comes as part of the city water option package. I think Scamp did a good job when designing that. We use it all the time.

Tom

[Terry M]

Jim, Have you done the White Rim Road, we saw a lot of dirt bikers when we made our circuit, took us 10 hours to cover the 80 miles. For the last couple of trips we have been staying in the Blanding/Bluff area, lot of ruins and canyons to explore. We off road in a Ford Raptor which only gets 13/14 mpg on a good day without a camper in tow, hoping the 13 won't bring my mpg below 10, if it does I may have to come out of retirement and go back to work. BTW we grew up in Greensburg, love KS. Terry

[Terry M]

Jon, talked to Wayne at Scamp about getting the wiring and extra roof support. We don't plan on getting air con now but we are going to plan for it.

[John Linck]

I would ask scamp to leave off the curtain rod brackets. The aluminum window frames have plenty of beef to attach to without holes in the fiberglass. Also ask them not to mount the sewer hose container. It's ugly. Put it under the trailer like so many have done.

[JIM Midway usa]

Terry, yes I did the White rim Road 3 years ago in a 98 Jeep cherokee. That, the night before, and the day after on an attempt at Kane creek trail is a long interesting story. Crossing a creek too fast I discovered Jeeps don't run well when water goes through the air intake and into the cylinders. LOL

We spent the night 2 years ago at Bluff in the most run down motel I have ever stayed in. Went to Goose necks, Valley of the Gods, and on to Page, Az. the next day. Last year did Lockhart canyon to Moab with the Jeep, and want to go back over it with my bike. Have also done many of the trails around Moab, mostly with the Jeep. Now have a new (old) bike I want to take out there. The other one I had wasn't the best choice for that terrain.

Never thought I would enjoy the desert, but fell in love on the first visit. Your Raptor should take you about anywhere you want to go, except some of the really narrow places. There was one place I had to turn around last year. I am trying to get up a group to go back in the spring. If you are interested, or want to share more Off road adventures, perhaps we could take it to another forum??

[Terry M]

Jim, you are right, the Raptor is too wide for a lot of the jeep trails, I use a machete quite often. Going out in the spring, been looking for someone to do the Flint trail, been afraid to do it solo.

[Donna D.]

Originally Posted by kootenaigirl

Yes, I would leave the curtain hardware off as they use a crazy amount of rivets to put them on and then you can add what you want later and not put holes to the outside.

Absolutely, positively don't have the hardware mounted... ick. AND, not the lovely stinky slinky tube holder on the front of the trailer. Like that is a thing of beauty. Double ICK.

[Jon in AZ]

Terry didn't mention getting a grey water tank, so there won't be a hose holder. But if they change their mind, I'll third that recommendation!

Another thing... I don't think Scamp includes any fire/CO/LP detectors from the factory. I know mine didn't have any- just an undersized fire extinguisher. Something to plan for...

[Carol H]

I may have missed it but I have not seen anyone mention the optional screen door. I would not want a trailer without it and its the one thing that every person I know with a trailer that doesn't have one wants to know more about, Mine has been measured and photographed many times by people trying to make one for their own trailer. Its nice to be able to leave the door open for ventilation at night but not let any creepy crawlies in.

The first item I added to my trailer was a Fantastic Fan, another item I would not want to be without. Stopped packing a small AC unit the previous owner had given me once I had the fan installed.

I added an extra outside electrical outlet but it probable the least used item I have added as I camp often without hook-ups.

The furnace & front window rock guard if optional are also two items I would not want to be without.