Noisy water pump. - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 07-09-2008, 12:16 AM   #15
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I think Peter and Carolyn might be on to something by "floating" the pump. Someone in the past mentioned placing the pump on a piece of gardener's kneeling pad.

Now that we are home from vacation, I'll have to add this subject to our "to-do" project list. It'll probably come right after the new floor in the "great room", the circular stair case, installing the new kitchen cabinets (which must be assembled and are stacked in the garage) and installing the counter tops for said kitchen cabinets, drywallling the downstairs room at the other end of the staircase, & oops, I forgot to mention installing the antique pedestal sink in the new bathroom.

It seems like yesterday (in 2006) when we last had this discussion and "Nuestra Casita's" pump still makes a racket. I think it's one of those "out-of-sight, out-of-mind" problems. Maybe it just isn't sufficiently irritating to warrant dismantling the bed (particularly during a trip when all kinds of stuff is stored under it) to allow easy access to the pump. It is after all, still functioning!
And maybe during the next 2 years a truly worthwhile solution will appear instead of just experiments!

Please keep the subject alive until several have reported on the ultimate cure and then post it in the tutorials! Meanwhile, the other projects on my list should keep me "out of mischief"!!!

(With tongue in cheek), thanks for the reminder...
Kurt & Ann K.
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Old 07-09-2008, 10:31 PM   #16
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[b]These "knocker" pumps must be mounted to something solid, like the floor of the trailer (thick plywood). The mounting screws should be neither too tight nor too loose. I tried the mousepad and it didn't help my situation. If the rubber mounts are in decent shape, I don't see how the mousepad would help.

[b]Sometimes a noisy pump just needs to be replaced due to worn parts. If this is not acceptable to you, try tightening the screws that connect the pump to the pump motor and any other screws that might have worked loose. These pumps can also be re-built or repaired.
Both my old pump and new pump were mounted to the floor thru spongy rubber grommets. However, the Whisper King is so close to silent that I cannot hear it. The sound and water flow mimics the experience of being connected to City Water. I think the majority of the problem was that my old pump was worn out and needed replacing. The increase in water pressure alone attests to that.
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Old 07-10-2008, 01:58 AM   #17
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Well, I wouldn't call the new pump installation "quiet," but "acceptable." It's much, much better than the jarring noise we used to have. Before I moved the pump the whole trailer seemed to vibrate when the pump came on.


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This is the old location, under the curb side dinette bench. The pump was installed just inches from the fresh water tank outlet, and the cold pipe went through that little opening toward the sink.


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This is a picture of the same location where the pump used to be installed. Here you can see the pipes that originally clamped directly to the OSB trailer floor around the perimeter of the trailer, snaking around the wheel well and other obstructions have been re-routed. They're now firmly zip tied every 12 inches to holes drilled in the curb the back of the dinette benches rest on. Not only does this reduce the amount of free movement the pipes have, the curb is covered in "rat-fur" that reduces the transmission of vibration.


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The new location for the pump is under the street side kitchenette cabinet where my converter and solar charge controller live. The pipes that used to snake around the wheel well clamped to the OSB floor have been re-routed and strapped to the rat-fur cover of the wheel well hump. There is a much longer length of flexible pipe to the re-located fresh water tank, and while the connection between the pump and cold water line is just four inches long, the water pipes are flexible PEX tubing with over a foot on either side of the pump connection before they are firmly secured to the "curb" at the back of the dinette or to the wheel well hump.

I've never used PEX pipe before, but found it was really easy to work with. The only downside is the pipe "T"s "L"s and unions I used are very, very pricey, $3-5 each, but don't require any special tools to install them. Less expensive $1-2 fittings are available, but you need a $80 tool to clamp them in place.
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Old 08-20-2008, 12:55 AM   #18
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Here's an update on my quest for a quieter water pump installation. Moving the water pipes up off the floor and attaching them to places where the Reflectix insulation and rat fur isolate the vibrations from the shell and floor helped a lot, but I have run into problems with the PEX pipe fittings I used. Some of them leaked.

I think there were two reasons why some of the fittings leaked. One of the straight pipe-to-pipe joint was located in the back corner of the trailer, where the pipe follows the curve of the trailer, and I think the slight movement of the pipe while the trailer is in motion combined with the stress at the bend caused the fitting to fail, so . . .

Lesson Number One: Don't install push-fitting PEX connectors where the pipe bends.

The other spot where it leaked was at an "L" that wrapped around my water heater. THe problem, I think, was that I didn't allow quite enought PEX pipe length to push all the way to the bottom of the fitting. Combined with movement in the trailer . . .

Lesson Two: Always allow enough PEX pipe length to fully insert the pipe into the push-fittings.

==========

I also found out that connecting my water pump and city water inlet directly to the PEX pipe can stress the pump and inlet fittings when the trailer is in motion and fatigue, then crack their housings, so I replaced my PEX-direct connection with a flexible braid pipe connection when I moved (and replaced) my city water connection to make way for a street-side hatch door. Using a flexible-braid pipe is also supposed to further dampen the water-hammer vibrations. I sure hope that's true.

Using flexible braid also allowed me to move my pump a bit further out of the way, tuck it completely under my pots-and-pans closet where there's a fair bit of otherwise-wasted space.


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Old 08-20-2008, 09:07 AM   #19
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Looking good, Peter! I like that sweeping arc on the outflow side of the pump.
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Old 08-20-2008, 05:51 PM   #20
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I replaced my PEX-direct connection with a flexible braid pipe connection when I moved (and replaced) my city water connection to make way for a street-side hatch door. Using a flexible-braid pipe is also supposed to further dampen the water-hammer vibrations. I sure hope that's true.
That should make things much quieter.
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Old 04-20-2011, 03:42 PM   #21
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Plumbing fittings

Hi Peter -
Thanks for the info earlier. Just a few quick questions.

1) What fittings did you use to go from your tank fitting to PEX?

My tank fittings are threaded with a 1/2" barb on the other end to attach braided hose to. If forgoing the hose, I'll need to go from the treaded fitting in the tank to a PEX-type fitting.

2) How did you attach your water line to your city water. I think these are standard (hose fitting on exterior and a big brass female fitting on the inside). Somehow I need to go from this big brass female fitting to the main water supply line on my non-trailer style taps. PEX can get me to the supply lines, but the backside of the city water inlet has me stumped. Do you have a picture of what you've done there?

Cheers,
Mike
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