Norcold 3way fridge in my ParkLiner - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-19-2014, 03:51 PM   #21
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I think most, if not all RV-LP regulators are adjustable.

As pointed out by Steven, the adjustment screw is under a threaded plastic cap. However, it should only be adjusted using a Manometer a device designed for measuring gas pressure, connected to the test port on the regulator, and with your appliances all ON..

The standard for LP gas seems to be 11" of water (not mercury) There is a simple manometer on Yahoo for less than $10 and lots of instructions on how to do it on Google.

The several suggestions to "Just turn it up" may not be safe with some appliances.



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Old 05-19-2014, 04:27 PM   #22
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[QUOTE=Bob Miller;459383]I think most, if not all RV-LP regulators are adjustable.

As pointed out by Steven, the adjustment screw is under a threaded plastic cap. However, it should only be adjusted using a Manometer a device designed for measuring gas pressure, connected to the test port on the regulator, and with your appliances all ON..

The standard for LP gas seems to be 11" of water (not mercury) There is a simple manometer on Yahoo for less than $10 and lots of instructions on how to do it on Google.

The several suggestions to "Just turn it up" not be safe with some a

My regulator was set to 11 WC" using ,a gauge .I did NOT just turn the screw and make an uneducated guess .I hope no one got that false lmpression from my post .Thank you Bob for pointing out the proper procedure for setting the pressure regulator
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Old 05-19-2014, 04:37 PM   #23
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I only made the comment because some of the answers you get if you Google how to do the adjustment say just that, a bad idea....

And there are always those that think that just because something is adjustable that it needs adjustment.

In short, don't do it without the correct tools .....



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Old 05-19-2014, 04:39 PM   #24
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When i got my Scamp from its previous owner I had this issue too. My frige is a dometic so not the same as yours but after chasing the fuel to no avail it ended up being a partial blockage from the smallest spider web you ever seen. A vacuum wouldnt clean it out you have to remove the burner cover and remove the burner to get to the outside of the fuel orifice which has a hole in it smaller than a human hair. There was a small silk like caccoon over this area about the size of a match head. You have to get in there and wipe it out. Frustrating to get to and more frustrating to put back together if you don't take the frige out. Took me 4 hours for a 1 second wipe with a Q-tip. Fridge and burner worked well after that.
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Old 05-19-2014, 05:12 PM   #25
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Thanks for the info re. adjusting regulators, folks...one more question hoping O.P. Deryk doesn't mind:

"High pressure" outdoor appliances such as gas grills operate at around 16"WC...is the standard RV regulator capable of adjustment that high, or is the range narrower, and just for fine tuning of standard 11"WC RV pressure?

thanks!
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Old 05-19-2014, 09:50 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Miller View Post
I think most, if not all RV-LP regulators are adjustable.


.
Yup - they need to be. Anytime you take your trailer in to have the propane lines checked they will check the pressure and adjust it as necessary to meet the demand of your appliances.
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Old 05-22-2014, 09:04 PM   #27
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Hey Deryk, old trick to see the flame in daytime is to look through a paper towel tube.
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Old 05-22-2014, 09:38 PM   #28
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Interesting idea.... It makes sense... Thanks Joel!
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Old 05-22-2014, 09:40 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by deryk View Post
Well I opened it up and vacumed it out and it seems to be working.... unfortunatly the sun is on that side of the trailer so I can't see the flame very well cause its too bright....will relight it again tonight when I get home from work if I remember lol
Yet another way to determine if it is lit:

Using a propane BBQ lighter, press on the safety valve lever, that will start the flow of gas. Stick the end of the lighter into the hole by the flame and pull it back out. If the burner is ON, the BBQ lighter will come out lit.

I use this to verify if the pilot safety valve is locked ON by the thermocouple after it is lit.



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Old 05-22-2014, 09:48 PM   #30
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Yup Bob, I do the same thing....but I need to look at it to see the flame colour {if its blue enough lol}
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Old 06-15-2014, 07:24 PM   #31
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Ok, the fridge is working intermittently on propane.

It does stay lit, seems to get colder at night then it does during the day. 12volt and AC works fine.

I spent an hour drilling out the rivets holding the upper vent in place hoping to be able to get in it cause when I kinda shook it a few chunks of black carbon fell down into the burner area...so Im kinda leaning towards it being a blockage.

After vacuuming it out and firing it up again in 10 minutes it dropped a half a degree(I picked up a digital fridge thermometer at Walmart today) I'm leaving it running over night to see how it goes.

Now here is a photo of the burner area. How can I get into that burner tube to make sure its really cleaned out?

Need some advice. and in the photo the metal tube to the right of the burner bein held in with a white zip tye...whats it for?
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burner.jpg  
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Old 06-15-2014, 08:21 PM   #32
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An hour later it only dropped a degree...the flame is not the the bright blue its suposed to be... kinda blue with yellow/orange tips...

so could it be the fuel jet clogged or the chimney clogged?

I found this... Maintenance- Cleaning a Norcold Burner
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Old 06-16-2014, 08:02 AM   #33
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Well I carefully undid the burner tube and igniter and 2 of the 4 slots were clogged...I blew out some beigey pieces of fluff, used a wire brush to clean it up. I also snaked a piece of wire up through the smoke stack tube and cleared out a bit more carbon buildup.

I put it back together and relit it... and the flame is much more uniform blue, and can see the 4 slots that each one has a flame coming out of it...so going to let it run for another hour or so and see if it starts to cool off. I have to leave for work in less then an hour and a half...so might run till I get home from work.

It smells cleaner running now then before... maybe with 2 of the slots clogged it wasn't properly burning the propane and that was the different odour I smelled?

Next project...I need to order and install another upper vent that can be removed without surgery. It would seem once a year its suggested to clean the burner and the chimney...so I don't want to have to recalk and rivet it and keep taking it apart. So I might order a matching lower vent and trim the flange because the whole isnt quite as wide (its a 1/4" narrower so might use some butyl tape to conceal and chance of seeing and of the holes from where the rivets were.)
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Old 06-16-2014, 08:09 AM   #34
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I had a similar problem with my fridge. I was out if gas! I keep a thermometer in there which helps. Glad you fixed it so easily. Remember everything is easy--at least I tell myself that frequently when I don't want todo something.
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Old 06-16-2014, 08:15 AM   #35
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Well I have my fingers crossed lol...By tonight I should know for sure if its cold in there...as opposed to luke warm lol.

I just ordered an identical to the lower fridge vent door off of ebay... next I want 3 of those cam locks keyed the same and replace the one on the door for the umbilical cord, and then both refridge vents so 1 key will open all 3...
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Old 06-16-2014, 08:18 AM   #36
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I had a problem with my fridge. It turned to be the sensor inside on the cooling fins. I replaced it with a dial type so I could set the temp and it has been working well.

I want to add a fan to it for warmer weather and have a small panel to run it or I might just tie it to my electrical system.

How much time do you spend diagnosing and cleaning parts so far?
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Old 06-16-2014, 08:34 AM   #37
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Probably a little over 2.5 hours. The first time I just opened up the cover shroud over the burner assembly and vacumed the burner tube and chunks of carbon I saw.... and the pilot light was staying lit....Im still not a 100% sure that it wasn't because the propane tank was low...

I spent a little over an hour yesterday but alot of the time was fearfully drilling out the rivets holding the upper vent in place and looking down at it shining a flashlight trying to see what I could see. Today I spent maybe 45 minutes disconnecting the burner blowing it out and snaking the wire up the chimney clearing more carbon out.

If the problem is solved then this will become regular spring time maintenance.... its not really hard to do at all. I need to pick up a compressor so I can use it to blow things out in situations like this.
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Old 06-16-2014, 08:54 AM   #38
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Well I think its fixed. Been running for a bit over an hour and its 57' in the fridge, 30' lower then the outside air temperature.

So do most people do annual cleaning of the burner tube?
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Old 06-16-2014, 09:02 AM   #39
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I saw on Youtube the other day that there is a particular small spider that is attracted by the smell of propane oderant. The guy said you can try to blow the web out, but it is pretty tenacious. He said he used a small plastic wire tie to pull them out.

You do need to use something relatively soft so as not to damage the teeniney orifice(#45 on Dometics).

A quick story. Since I got my Little Joe, the refrigerator has not worked well on LP; moderately better on AC but still below what I thought it should. I reviewed the installation instructions and modified the installation as follows:

-added a 12 volt fan above the coils
-added insulation to the refer and the the external walls around same
-per installation instructions added a baffle to narrow the airspace around behind the coils. ie 'if the space between the wall and the coils is greater than 1" place a baffle, etc, etc" per the illustration.
- I also placed a baffle between the cooling coils and the heater stack to direct boiler heat directly out of the upper vent.

All of this helped to a greater or lesser degree, but still not up to snuff based on conversations with my brother, who is very satisfied with his LP refer.

After the last trip, I decided to review everything once more. Going through the manual, though no dimensions were given, I noticed that on the illustrations the upper and lower vents were similar sizes, so I did careful measurements and calculated the free air space of both vents. I found the lower vent/access to be too small, about 20% of what it should have been. I modified a return air vent from Lowes to fit the door and now have a nominal 55 degree differential between the refer temp and ambient.

I'm still testing it out on my asphalt driveway, highs in the mid and upper 90's and it's working very well.

The Little Joe is, well, little and the refer is fitted below the stove, behind the left wheel and the left rear corner of the trailer. Not many options for a bigger door. The replaced vent in the existing door seems to be working very well.

Well, maybe that story wasn't so short.
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Old 06-16-2014, 09:08 AM   #40
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How small are the vents? My lower vent is 20 5/8's by 10. something and the upper vent is about 20 7/8's by about 8"

I've heard about adding a fan to help vent out the heat...would be an easy mod to add. Now last summer if I ran the fridge on high my half 'n half would be half frozen so I normally ran it somewhere between low and high to keep everything cold. Right now its running on high just to see how cool I can get it in there.
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