Norcold 3way fridge in my ParkLiner - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-17-2014, 08:06 AM   #1
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Norcold 3way fridge in my ParkLiner

Hello folks,

Haveing a little issue. My fridge is working fine on 12 volt or AC but not running on propane.

I initially lit the burner when I got to the campsite wednesday checked it 10 minutes later and the pilot light was out.... relit it a few times. Now the propane switch was set to the tank that was less then half full when I left( have one of those fish scale style scales) I switched it to the one that was almost 3/4 full and the pilot light stays lit fine.... when going outside I can smell the co'2 but its not getting cold. Switched it to ac and dc and it runs fine.

Any thoughts for me to check when I get home tomorrow?
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Old 05-17-2014, 08:23 AM   #2
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Something might have fallen down into/onto the burner, (debris, screw(s), left behind tools etc.) diverting the flame from where it is supposed to impinge on the boiler
tube(s)

The flame is soooo small that it must be exact or it won't work. Just yesterday I spent about 3 hours cleaning the burner on a Dometic RM-2193. It went from poor performance to like new performance on Gas. Check the Norcold Manual for how to do this on yours.

There may also be a turbulator vane in the flame tube that came loose, again, check your manual.



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Old 05-17-2014, 11:49 AM   #3
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Quote:
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when going outside I can smell the co'2 but its not getting cold.


If you're smelling something unusual it's not CO2, which is odorless. As is virgin propane. Are you perhaps smelling the mercaptin (rotten egg) odor added to propane for safety reasons?

If so, you may have an actual gas leak in the fridge or perhaps the burner is being fed gas which passes off unignited. Which amounts to the same thing.
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Old 05-17-2014, 12:09 PM   #4
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CO = Carbon Monoxide, Byproduct of Combustion, can be fatal to children and other living things.
Carbon monoxide - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

CO2 = Carbon Dioxide, used to put out class "C" fires and, as dry ice. keeps beer very cold.
Also blamed for global warming, but is the primary source of carbon in the atmosphere.
Carbon dioxide - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia



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Old 05-17-2014, 12:42 PM   #5
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Since I don't know the model number of your particular fridge I'm shootin' in the dark here, but:

If yours is a unit with an electronic thermostat any interruption in the power to that component will prevent the burner from lighting despite the presence of a lit pilot flame.
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Old 05-18-2014, 03:22 AM   #6
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Hi, could the thurmo coupler be wearing out? I've had a couple go iffy over the years.
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Old 05-18-2014, 04:09 AM   #7
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The thermo couple/ safety valve circuit would be where I would look. However, a problem there would not be cured by changing gas tanks. Raz
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Old 05-18-2014, 05:33 AM   #8
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Most of the time when refrigerator won't run on propane it's because there's spiders nest in the burner.
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Old 05-18-2014, 07:37 AM   #9
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Most of the time when refrigerator won't run on propane it's because there's spiders nest in the burner.
If the pilot light is staying lit then the thermo couple appears to be working. If the main burner is not coming on full flame then 1) Main gas valve is not opening (Bad valve or no signal for valve to open) 2) Plugged burner orfice ( bugs or dirt ) 3) Low gas pressure (Gas regulator not properly set) .. *** My Scamp had a birds nest plugging the refrigerator vent causing the refrigerator to function poorly but the main burner still turned on
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Old 05-18-2014, 07:40 AM   #10
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Well I'm hoping that this is a 2012 with pretty light useage its just spiderwebs lol....Im going to be heading home in a few hours and will have to pull out the manual and take a peak.... I'm praying its something simple. Fortunatly the camp ground I'm in has electric so I'm plugged in and the fridge is running off of dc right now.... but yeah tomorrow morning I'm going to have to open it up and follow what it says to clean it out.
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Old 05-18-2014, 09:35 AM   #11
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Learn something every day

Quote:
Originally Posted by steve dunham View Post
If the pilot light is staying lit then the thermo couple appears to be working. If the main burner is not coming on full flame then
I have owned two 3 way refrigerators. Both were small and had only one burner which people often refered to as a pilot light. It burns continuously.
It never occurred to me that there would be a pilot light and a main burner but it make sense if you want thermostatic control of the temperature. Raz
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Old 05-18-2014, 09:42 AM   #12
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Well I'm hoping that this is a 2012 with pretty light useage its just spiderwebs lol....Im going to be heading home in a few hours and will have to pull out the manual and take a peak.... I'm praying its something simple.
My vote is also with spider webs as a probable cause. Pipe cleaners work well for cleaning...
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Old 05-18-2014, 06:32 PM   #13
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Just got home, its a Norcold 323x 1.7 cu ft 3way..... will take a look at it tomorrow morning to check for bugs/cobwebbs...thanks!
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Old 05-19-2014, 03:46 AM   #14
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I has the same problem and replace the thermo sensor with a new one with a dial to tweak the setting. It now works great. Cost was. $25 on eBay.

Find a manual for your fridge and do a search on google. That is how I identified my problem and fixed it.
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Old 05-19-2014, 10:07 AM   #15
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Well I opened it up and vacumed it out and it seems to be working.... unfortunatly the sun is on that side of the trailer so I can't see the flame very well cause its too bright....will relight it again tonight when I get home from work if I remember lol
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Old 05-19-2014, 10:31 AM   #16
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If it still doesn't seem to be up to expectations, get the pressure output of your LP regulator checked.

For Dometics they want 11" of mercury. In several cases I have read, as little as a 2" drop in pressure will, while still leaving the flame on, won't provide enough BTU's to run the cooling circuit.

The difference you saw between two different LP bottles sorta suggests a pressure problem.



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Old 05-19-2014, 10:33 AM   #17
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Deryk, you may want to check to see if your fridge is on the Norcold Recall list of a couple of years ago. I know a few people here had fairly new 3 ways that were recalled.
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Old 05-19-2014, 10:52 AM   #18
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If it still doesn't seem to be up to expectations, get the pressure output of your LP regulator checked.

For Dometics they want 11" of mercury. In several cases I have read, as little as a 2" drop in pressure will, while still leaving the flame on, won't provide enough BTU's to run the cooling circuit.

The difference you saw between two different LP bottles sorta suggests a pressure problem.
The gas pressure in my Scamp was only off by a little over 1" and the refrigerator would not go below 50 Deg F . Adjusted the regulator to the proper pressure , refrigerator temps dropped to the 30's
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Old 05-19-2014, 02:54 PM   #19
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The gas pressure in my Scamp was only off by a little over 1" and the refrigerator would not go below 50 Deg F . Adjusted the regulator to the proper pressure , refrigerator temps dropped to the 30's
What brand/model regulator does your Scamp have, Steve, and how does one adjust it? I didn't know that such a thing as an adjustable regulator exists and would be most interested in acquiring one.
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Old 05-19-2014, 03:10 PM   #20
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What brand/model regulator does your Scamp have, Steve, and how does one adjust it? I didn't know that such a thing as an adjustable regulator exists and would be most interested in acquiring one.
I sold my 1999 Scamp last year so no way to tell you what model regulator I had ,but it was the factory regulator for the dual tank system
If I remember correctly there was a removable cover on the regulator with an adjustment screw under the cover . Talking to the previous owner he had dropped the gas pressure because he thought the cook top flame was too high and he never ran the refrigerator on propane so he did not realize the problem he had created
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