Not cold when using gas - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 08-28-2011, 10:11 PM   #15
Senior Member
 
Name: Ken
Trailer: 1989 Bigfoot
British Columbia
Posts: 229
If it is working on 110 v it is not the cooling unit ,it is the heat source or themostat
__________________

__________________
ken h is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-29-2011, 10:19 AM   #16
Senior Member
 
Lizbeth's Avatar
 
Name: Liz
Trailer: 1979 13 ft Boler, 1987 & 1988 Bigfoot 5th Wheel
California
Posts: 2,027
Registry
Ken beat me to it! ^ what Ken said.

If it is making cold on elec then it can make cold on propane.
__________________

__________________
1979 Boler B1300 | 1987 Bigfoot 5th Wheel | 1988 Bigfoot 5th Wheel | We officially have a collection!
Lizbeth is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-19-2011, 01:58 PM   #17
Senior Member
 
Name: Dave
Trailer: 2000 Scamp 16 ft Side Dinette Deluxe / 2006 Toyota Tundra
Posts: 172
Stil not cold

The frig is still not working on gas.
1) works well on 110 volts
2) Cleaned everything I could.
3) on gas the stack gets hot, but the frig will not cool down

So how does one check the gas pressure to see if it is correct

Thanks Dave tharp
__________________
D Tharp is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-19-2011, 05:49 PM   #18
Senior Member
 
Rick G's Avatar
 
Name: Rick
Trailer: former Boler, now 1980 Trillium 4500
British Columbia
Posts: 366
Registry
Smile

Quote:
Originally Posted by D Tharp View Post
Has anyone tried to turn the frig upside down when you have it out. I thought I read where this can help. I have it out and cleaned it very well, it is on 110 volts and seems to be working OK. True test when i put it back in. So do I let it side upside down foe awhile before I put it back in?
Also the knob for the 110 is 1 the coldest setting or 5 ?
The Dometic repair guys say that turning the fridge upside down usually does not work, but there is anecdotal evidence that it works sometimes. If you are going to do that, as I have in the past, remember to check the spiral baffle contained in the burner flue afterward. It hangs from the top with a wire, and when the fridge is turned upside down it can get knocked out of position. It is a simple matter to reposition it, but should be done. The spiral baffle is a critically important part for the heat transfer when running on gas, which might be your problem.

It sounds like your problem is that your gas burner is creating heat, but not enough of it is getting transferred to the fridge boiler. I have a similar problem with my old Dometic RM211 on gas. Works great on electricity but is marginal on gas. I think the reason is that the heat transfer from the burner to the fridge boiler is not good enough. The boiler is the part which is inside the burner chimney, attached by a long (about 4 inches) weld to the gas burner on one side, and to the electric burner on the other side. It looks like a 3-pipe pipe organ, with the boiler in the middle, the gas burner on the right, and the electric heat element on the left. The gas burner sends heat up the flue, and the spiral baffle slows the heat down to improve the heat transfer to the boiler. That supplies enough heat to make the boiler work, which it does by evaporating the ammonia mixture in the fridge, etc. etc.

What it means is that, if there is heat, but not enough to boil the mixture, no cooling will occur even though the fridge feels hot to the touch. I have tried to figure out a way to improve the heat transfer, but as long as the weld attaching the flue to the boiler is in good shape, there is not much you can do. I have tried twisting the spiral baffle (slightly!) to increase the spiral and thereby slow down the escape of heat. That seemed to work for me, but I doubt that any service person would recommend it. The height of the spiral baffle above the flame is also important, and must be neither too high nor too low. The Dometic service manual gives the recommended height. It seems to me that replacing the spiral baffle with one that is too long, or one that hangs a half inch lower, might improve the transfer of heat to the boiler, but I have not tried that.

Lots to think about. Good luck.
Rick G
__________________
Rick G is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-19-2011, 11:10 PM   #19
Senior Member
 
Name: Ken
Trailer: 1989 Bigfoot
British Columbia
Posts: 229
To check L.P. pressure you need to go to a shop ,you need special tools to check it. There is one thing you can try is taking off the l.p line at the tank and lay it on the ground sometimes oil builds up in the line and restricts the gas flow , see if oil comes out wait 5 or 10 min. This might help ,you should still check your pressure

Take care
__________________
ken h is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-20-2011, 06:51 AM   #20
Member
 
Name: Denise
Trailer: Amerigo FG-16
Maine
Posts: 35
Registry
I'm very interested in this thread..I seem to be having the same issue with my Dometic fridge this year. Last year (my first experience with a camper) the fridge worked fine on propane. I went on a 14 day trip with it and it ran for the most part on propane the entire time with no problem.
This year, it was difficult to start the fridge on gas, and it didn't want to stay running on the propane. I found that if I wedged open slightly the pull out lever in the bottom of the fridge that you're supposed to use only to light it for a while, it would continue to run. Now I'm getting no cold on propane, but did test it with 110v and it works super.
I'll try what has been suggested in the thread and see if it makes any difference. Thanks for posting everyone. If not, I guess I'm off to the RV place down the road..$$$.

Denise
__________________
73 Amerigo FG-16
DeniseinMaine is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-20-2011, 08:04 PM   #21
Moderator
 
Matt in SV's Avatar
 
Name: Matt
Trailer: U-Haul VT16, Escape 19
California
Posts: 987
Registry
It worked for three days - how much gas is left in the bottle? I wouldn't bother turning it upside down. That's a trick to unblock the condenser coils and get the ammonia flowing more freely, which wouldn't be the problem if it works on electricity.

Regards,

Matt
__________________
Planning our next Escape!
Matt in SV is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-20-2011, 08:27 PM   #22
Senior Member
 
Tim Wood's Avatar
 
Name: Tim
Trailer: Class B for now
NY
Posts: 747
Like others have said if it works on elec. no need to take out and turn upside down. I would get another gas regulator and see if that is your problem. How does your stove work on lp ? I suppose you could take your regulator to an RV place and have them check it out too.
__________________
Tim Wood is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-21-2011, 07:08 PM   #23
Member
 
Name: Denise
Trailer: Amerigo FG-16
Maine
Posts: 35
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim Wood View Post
Like others have said if it works on elec. no need to take out and turn upside down. I would get another gas regulator and see if that is your problem. How does your stove work on lp ? I suppose you could take your regulator to an RV place and have them check it out too.
My stove works fine..which I suppose rules out the regulator. I'm thinking that maybe my issue is that the orifice needs a good cleaning. I'll start there and see if I can get some help blowing out the lines and will report back.
__________________
73 Amerigo FG-16
DeniseinMaine is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-21-2011, 07:54 PM   #24
Senior Member
 
Name: Ken
Trailer: 1989 Bigfoot
British Columbia
Posts: 229
The stove will burn at any pressure , if our pressure is not enough the flame is not hot enough. Can you boil water with a match? You have to bring the cooling solution to a boil. If you have not cleaned your orfice, I would start there. L.P. Pressure should be checked, they also do a leak test at the same time, to let you know if your system is safe.

If there is no problem only a adjustment should be about 1 hr

Money well spend, you will sleep better too.
__________________
ken h is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-21-2011, 09:45 PM   #25
Senior Member
 
Name: Martin
Trailer: Trillium 4500 1977
Quebec
Posts: 156
Registry
Whipping a dead horse ?

Quote:
Originally Posted by D Tharp View Post
I am with you Donna, will let it cool of and let sit upside down for a day. Yes what do I have to loose. But the price of a new one is a lot. I am retired so maybe I will pull every few months and do it again.
Hi,
I suggest you have a look at Absorption refrigerator - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia to understand the basics of absorption principle used in LP gas refrigerators.

If it is working fine under 110V, playing shake and bake is useless. The use of reversing the fridge is mainly to disloge ammonia gas crystals that may obstruct the free circulation of gas in the cooling unit. Presence of ammonia crystals is an indication that the solution of water, ammonia and hydrogen has deteriorated over time or (likely) from overheating (if not leveled properly). No matter how hard you will shake or reverse it, you can't regenerate what's lost. You can only try to use what's left of cooling power.

I found that using a 12 volts computer fan to force vertical air circulation on the outside vents of the fridge helps to maintain acceptable fridge operation , but for me, it did not work on very hot days with my old 1977 Dometic 211, so I installed another fridge. There was no use to whip a dead horse in my case. You may be more lucky.

Since Gas operation is the problem, not the cooling unit operation, the first thing to do is to clean up all dust and obstructions, especially between the jet and the pilot. Next, I strongly suggest you replace the jet (accessible when you clean up the pilot burner) and the two stage gas regulator if it is more than 5 years old. They are inexpensive parts, easy to find. The whole cleaning procedure is explained in many service manuals you can find in the document center. Any spider nest or debris that obstructs the propane jet can cause a misfire and potentially some injuries to anybody who tries to light the pilot. I had a RM2193 for five years and I must have replaced the jets twice and cleaned up the pilot for spider stuff at least twice every year.

Good luck !
__________________

__________________
Martin J. Qc Canada
lamimartin is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
How COLD is too COLD Gerry General Chat 11 02-05-2011 12:06 AM
Just gas or gas/electric water heater? Feedback wanted. Bryan L. Care and Feeding of Molded Fiberglass Trailers 15 09-15-2010 10:11 AM
Cold water Lyndon Laney Jokes, Stories & Tall Tales 2 11-22-2009 11:10 PM
getting cold in CO but.... ronsmith100 General Chat 4 10-08-2008 09:32 PM
whole milk you do not have to keep cold John Perry Camp Cooking, Food & Recipes 10 07-07-2007 09:34 PM

» Upcoming Events
No events scheduled in
the next 465 days.
» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:23 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.