Not sure if I should buy this trailer... - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 07-09-2013, 07:51 PM   #15
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What a great list. I just hope that I can find all the parts, I am such a newb! Oh My God! I have so much to learn. But it's going to be fun.
I have already learned so much especially no "sillycone" and post lost of pictures
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Old 07-09-2013, 07:55 PM   #16
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Thanks Martin! I will add your suggestions to my list. Great idea with the screw driver handle.
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Old 07-09-2013, 08:06 PM   #17
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Sounds like a good price as long as there are no major defects that would cost you a bundle to repair. If you're not comfortable deciding that on your own, tell teh seller the purchase is subject to you having it inspected and having the right to cancel the purchase based on the outcome of the inspection. It may cost you some additional money up front, but it could save you $1000s and a lot of frustration in the long run.
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Old 07-09-2013, 08:43 PM   #18
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Great idea! I'll see if I can line up an rv place close by for an inspection.
Thanks so much!
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Old 07-10-2013, 05:35 PM   #19
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Donna D.... It sang to my heart. 60" wide bed which could also be 4 bunks. Front couch with top bunk. (yup it can sleep 6 if 4 are short ). Roof looks great, windows and screens are in great shape. A few minor hairline cracks at the top of the door and no more rust that expected on a 1981 frame, still solid. No mold, no moisture and no hollow sound when tapping with the screwdriver handle.
$2500 and I pick it up tomorrow.. Do I still get bragging rights?
Soon to be FG owner... YIPEEE!!
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Old 07-10-2013, 05:49 PM   #20
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Brag away----you did great!!!!!!
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Old 07-10-2013, 06:00 PM   #21
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Since $5000 is kinda a target price for many trailers, I would call $2500 a bargain! Congrats Sandy. I think you will have lots of fun. I really like the Dolphin brand.
I could be wrong, but I would bet that an RM211 fridge will fit in that hole. If you are patient and shop around, you should be able to get one for less then $100. I paid $80 for one, and then got two more for free. They are small, but they seem to everywhere. I think that tent trailers, that are the same vintage as your trailer, are starting to become irreparable. The appliances get taken out and they are converted to a utility trailer, or quad trailer. Many people just dispose of the fridge, stove, and furnace.
The fitting in the side of the trailer is for a forced air furnace. I suspect that many new furnaces will fit in the same place.
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Old 07-10-2013, 08:05 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeansmomSandy View Post
Donna D.... It sang to my heart. 60" wide bed which could also be 4 bunks. Front couch with top bunk. (yup it can sleep 6 if 4 are short ). Roof looks great, windows and screens are in great shape. A few minor hairline cracks at the top of the door and no more rust that expected on a 1981 frame, still solid. No mold, no moisture and no hollow sound when tapping with the screwdriver handle.
$2500 and I pick it up tomorrow.. Do I still get bragging rights?
Soon to be FG owner... YIPEEE!!
Sounds good, congratuations.
Just a little warning, since your first move is likely to look for a fridge. I suggest you think twice about buying a used fridge that is not a current model. RM11 parts are next to impossible to find. Anything you buy must have a perfect, but I mean perfect door seal. Nothing stiff or damaged. People telling you you only have to put a fridge upside down to fix it are only telling you half the truth. 3 way fridge is working on an ammonia-based circuit that must be set level to work properly. If unused for extended periods or overheated, ammonia crystals may form and stop the flow that makes it work. If this circuit is operated off level it will overheat and degrade a little more the refrigerant gas mix, up to the point it fails. Installing a 3 way fridge requires to plan for the interior access hole that must be kept separated from the outside section. It is not rocket science, but keep in mind there are not that many small fridge models that are currently available in that size range. If you work to fit something old that fails, you are likely to have to start over again with another size. If you install a current model, you will be able to fix it or replace with another unit within an hour or so. There is a cut-out valve on the fridge propane intake. I suggest you install one on the furnace too, so you can test and service them independently in the future.

Bonne chance !
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Old 07-10-2013, 08:07 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeansmomSandy View Post
Donna D.... It sang to my heart. 60" wide bed which could also be 4 bunks. Front couch with top bunk. (yup it can sleep 6 if 4 are short ). Roof looks great, windows and screens are in great shape. A few minor hairline cracks at the top of the door and no more rust that expected on a 1981 frame, still solid. No mold, no moisture and no hollow sound when tapping with the screwdriver handle.
$2500 and I pick it up tomorrow.. Do I still get bragging rights?
Soon to be FG owner... YIPEEE!!
ABSOLUTELY! And, you'll post pictures of you next to your new-to-you rollin' home with a BIG ole grin on your face... won't you?
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Old 07-10-2013, 10:39 PM   #24
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Thanks Martin! But it really does sound like rocket science to me . Propane scares me so we will be using a small plug in cooler that we have for now until we can get a new fridge out in. Friday the trailer goes to the rv place to have the furnace reconnected, the regulator and the power converter checked and the brake wiring switched back to 7 pin (for some reason he cut the 7 pin wire and rejigged a 4 pin). He also disconnected the water pump for some strange reason. I will probably ask them to have a peek at the frame at the same time, just to make sure. And so it begins ....
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Old 07-10-2013, 10:42 PM   #25
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You betcha Donna! All four of us with huge grins. My aunt, my mom, my son and I.
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Old 07-10-2013, 11:48 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by SeansmomSandy View Post
Thanks Martin! But it really does sound like rocket science to me . Propane scares me so we will be using a small plug in cooler that we have for now until we can get a new fridge out in. Friday the trailer goes to the rv place to have the furnace reconnected, the regulator and the power converter checked and the brake wiring switched back to 7 pin (for some reason he cut the 7 pin wire and rejigged a 4 pin). He also disconnected the water pump for some strange reason. I will probably ask them to have a peek at the frame at the same time, just to make sure. And so it begins ....
Water pump is connected to a reservoir usually located under the floor. Old reservoir or plumbing might need to be inspected prior to consider reusing it. You need easy access to the purge valve. Personnaly, I am reluctant to use it except for camping into remore areas where a reliable source of drinking water is not available. Sanitation and deodorizing such water reserve requires special chemicals your RV specialist can also explain to you, but cost of such chemicals is not cheap and water aftertaste is hard to avoid. I prefer using a jerrycan size portable drinking water containers which are inexpensive to purchase and simpler to maintain. Keep in mind that filling an integrated water tank (usually located right over the axle) adds a considerable weight over the suspension that often start to sag over time. I also found that expensive replacement hand pumps rarely last more than a couple of seasons. Again, this adds to the cost of using the integrated reservoir.

By the way, there is not much to fear about propane if you used approved connectors, copper lines and sealant. The most important is the soapy water test at the end. You may check with your RV expert if they can find and install a used or even 3 way fridge. I prefer by far Norcold 323 over Dometic RM2193 because they cost about the same, but Norcold has automatic temperature control under 110V or 12V which Dometic do not offer. The Norcold pilot is on the left (protected from the motion wind), so it does remain lit when driving, as opposed to the Dometic. The least trouble is to go 12V when driving and 110V when camping and only use propane when 110V is not available. Using Propane temperature setting is not as convenient: Important temperature variations between day and night or from one day to another often makes veggies freeze at night and food getting spoiled on hot days if your are not very carefull monitoring and adjusting temperature with an electronic thermometer. Norcold fridge makes both the driving and relaxing part of camping much simpler.

As for your electric brakes, you need to purchase and get installed an electric brake controller into your towing vehicle. Make sure you AVOID time based controllers. You should only consider a PROPORTIONAL type brake controller. Preferably, get a fused 12V line from your car battery added onto your electric brake hookup so you can recharge your RV battery and run your fridge under 12V as you are driving. Otherwise, you are dependent on Propane when driving, which is not recommended, potentially illegal in some tunnels and less convenient in all cases.

Félicitations et bonnes vacances !
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Old 07-11-2013, 07:28 AM   #27
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Thanks Martin! I agree sanitizing a water tank is a pain. The PO installed a new tap that is connected straight to the city way connection. I may just leave it that way. I never use the holding tanks myself. Since I usually camp with two elderly ladies, we go where there are hook ups. Undecided if I should just remove the pump and store it. I think it will be a wait and see for now.
As for brakes, I already have a brake controller on my tow vehicle, my TT weighs 200lbs more than this trailer, so towing should be ok.
Thanks so much for all the info.
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Old 07-11-2013, 08:29 AM   #28
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Our EggCamper came with a 12 volt fridge, compressor type like in a home fridge. Does not have to be level nor does it require a heat source to make it work. Without going out to look I think it might be a Norcold. after having a zillion typical rv fridges, I much prefer the compressor model. No idea on cost. sizewise it fits just under the countertop.
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