Old insulation removal suggestions needed - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-01-2013, 01:14 PM   #1
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Old insulation removal suggestions needed

I finally removed all of the wall carpet, appliances, external fixtures and windows of my 86 Casita Liberty Deluxe. Now I am left with a lot of aged yellow insulation on the interior. I have tried manually pulling it off and that wont work. Then donning a respirator and goggles I tried a 4 inch wire cup brush and was (am) trying to lightly reach out and touch the material. I then looked like a Cheetos covered in finely aged cheddar cheese curds. I stopped as I noticed that I was in fact buffing up some of the fiberglass threads and although I wasn't grinding them out I think the wire was just plucking the surface. You can see white threads where I have touched the skin as opposed to just a black surface where the glue never stuck. This is extremely messy generation thousands of match sized residue. BUT if this is the correct method I will get a cheap throw away coverall and continue and then vacuum it up later.
IS THERE A BETTER WAY?????
Unfortunately this will end up being a total restoration as the floor is rotted and the wall carpet was horrible with rust stains and discoloration. I know I need to pull out the shower as that floor is rotten too but just don't have the heart yet to do so. I have been reading most of the threads that I can search and save the data. {wish TEP was in Texas and worked for enchiladas and cerveza]. Appreciate any input. I do have pictures that I will probably post on an external site but there is nothing extraordinary about what I have done so far as its just been ripping it all out.
Thanks
Mike
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Old 03-01-2013, 03:47 PM   #2
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We like pictures at any stage. In fact, the ripping out may be the most educational part.
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Old 03-01-2013, 05:07 PM   #3
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Well give this a go and see if you can access it. This is photobucket and although the pictures were loaded in order, when I do the slide show it doesnt seem to come out that way. You have to start with the full outdoor trailer shot I think.
I will post to this site rather then clog up this forum. I will try to get back in and see if it links;however, since I have access it might let me in anyway. Havent really shared before.
Mike

My Casita Restoration Photos by GMikea | Photobucket
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Old 03-01-2013, 06:59 PM   #4
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I was able to view your pictures Mike. SUCCESS! I don't have any suggestions as I've never done what you're doing. BUT, maybe this is the time to fiberglass in blocks for all the cabinetry and fill rivet holes? You may never pass this way again...
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Old 03-01-2013, 08:24 PM   #5
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I dont know if Robert Johans still is active or reads the threads BUT I have come up with an idea to use cleats based upon one of his threads AND to use live rubber strips (size and width to be determined) to act as a buffer and stabilizer while the cabinets are in motion. One of the comments was made that FG is forgiving compared to wood cabinets attached to FG. BUT if I take cleats and add a strip of rubber to cushion and act as a spring buffer I think it will allow the cabinets to vibrate without tearing out the screws or anchors to the cleats. Any comments on that before I patent it?

Mike
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Old 03-01-2013, 09:45 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by GMike A View Post
I dont know if Robert Johans still is active or reads the threads BUT I have come up with an idea to use cleats based upon one of his threads AND to use live rubber strips (size and width to be determined) to act as a buffer and stabilizer while the cabinets are in motion. One of the comments was made that FG is forgiving compared to wood cabinets attached to FG. BUT if I take cleats and add a strip of rubber to cushion and act as a spring buffer I think it will allow the cabinets to vibrate without tearing out the screws or anchors to the cleats. Any comments on that before I patent it?

Mike
I like the idea of a rubber buffer/cushion but I'm not exactly sure where you plan on putting the rubber. However, it might not be a good idea to put it between the screw head and the cleat. Depending on the amount of rubber and how soft it is, the possible movement can make it easier for the screw to pull out of the cleat.

Think of it like you are pulling a screw or nail out of a board. If it's nailed firmly into the board it's very hard to get out. You need a pry bar or tool of some sort. If it's sticking part way out, you can pull and wiggle and spin it and eventually get it out by hand.

If I could draw you a sketch, it would make a lot more sense! lol

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Old 03-02-2013, 06:08 AM   #7
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I feel your pain. I had to clean up a 3 Sq. ft. area on the wall of a Casita, at least the carpet was not very well attached in the area. It took about 4 hours and I tried every chemical in the shop. A twisted wire brush got the best results but as you all ready know you need too be careful. Scamp uses an adhesive that tends to become a little more brittle over time and is easier to work with. Casita uses a rubbery yellow carpet adhesive which seems to be as flexable as the day it was installed. I found a great carpet cleaner for spots and plan to have a carpet guy clean the my carpet using a waterless cleaning method prior to reassembly.
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Old 03-02-2013, 06:19 AM   #8
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I will draw a sketch or take a picture but my idea is to sandwich it between two pieces of wood. i.e. the cleat will be on the bottom then the rubber and then the cabinet will have another cleat on top of it. I will then use a round threaded insert with the 3 teeth like you see on some cabinets that will be on the bottom and then use a bolt and washer on top. The size will probably be maybe a number like 1/4 20 SS. I think I will need a touch of epoxy to hold the threaded insert into the cleat so it wont work its way out with all the vibes. Still noodling it out but will put something on paper and scan it into here. Have to go a gun show so will be back after lunch
Mike

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Old 03-02-2013, 06:29 AM   #9
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Thanks Eddie. I saw one thread somewhere where reflectix was used as an insulator and then the person bought headliner material from the Scamp store which is much thinner and easier to work with. I made PDFs of the threads for references so that I could go back to them later. They also called out the adhesives they used on each and it seemed doable. I am thinking that there is no reason to hang 100 lbs of carpet on the insides if I dont have to. There were comments as to the pros and cons of using Reflectix and perhaps ensolite and I need to refer back to those notes also. I just need it to look good and last me for my lifetime of retirement.
I DO APPRECIATE ALL THE REPLIES AND INPUTS
Mike
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Old 03-02-2013, 07:30 AM   #10
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I started out with a twisted brush and my air grinder running at 10Krpm and that was way too much and abrasive. I am now going to try a simple 1/4 Bronze cup brush and a drill at a much lower speed. IF thats too much I might try a hard bristle outdoor broom and see how that works. I think the bronze brush will be fine using a right angle holder drill to keep it steady. I tried one free hand and I was all over the place.
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Old 03-02-2013, 07:37 AM   #11
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I might have to start a thread just on my restoration as I have lots of questions but they cover different aspects and I think they might get buried after x number of pages. What have others done? I have some questions on FG identification for the Casita as I am going to plug up all the holes and essentially start over. The holes on top and the weight bearing rivet holes on the sides are now oblong or egg shaped from vibration over the years. I am trying to make this FUN and going slow rather then shake my head over this. But as I mentioned elsewhere finding a used egg camper hasnt been easy as they get snatched up so quickly. So this will be a labor of love
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Old 03-04-2013, 03:00 PM   #12
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After picking off what I could get easily by hand, I then used a pressure washer on the interiour. It did a very good job. Once the mess dried up on the driveway I just shoveled it up.
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Old 03-04-2013, 04:14 PM   #13
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Thanks Adam for the reply. I have a pressure washer so will give it a go. I am curious as to whether the surface has to be bone clean or after washing etc and there are still patches of old glue - if its okay just to insulate over that debris which is left? I would hate for it to degenerate two years from now on the areas that werent original FG. Just a thought or really a question that comes to mind.
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