On the need to seal rivets... - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-01-2016, 05:22 AM   #15
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I get my rivets (alum rivet/alum stem) from McMaster Carr.
McMaster-Carr#


As I mentioned earlier, they have less of a range in closed end.


On the Casita, or at least on my Casita, all the roof rivets are 3/16 diameter. Which explains how poorly the 1/8" rivets fit. Personally, I wouldn't use 1/8" rivets in a 3/16 hole. YMMV. I can't speak to Bolers roof rivets.


I feel snap caps are as much cosmetic as anything else while being cautious about whether the broken off part completely seals the rivet. I'm inclined to believe that while the end of the rivet breaks off inside the body of the rivet, that (potentially) waterproof seal is at the end of the rivet and water can get into the rivet hole with access to carpeting or whatever non-fiberglass layers there are being clamped.
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Old 03-01-2016, 06:44 AM   #16
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I use dabs of sealant in the same fashion as Timber Wolf describes.
The least you could have done Steve, is changed the graphic so folks won't reach for the silicone!

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Old 03-01-2016, 09:40 AM   #17
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Sheesh!
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rivet3.jpg  
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Old 03-01-2016, 11:12 AM   #18
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On the Casita, or at least on my Casita, all the roof rivets are 3/16 diameter. Which explains how poorly the 1/8" rivets fit. Personally, I wouldn't use 1/8" rivets in a 3/16 hole. YMMV. I can't speak to Bolers roof rivets.
1/8" seemed perfect on the roof. On the side, it looked like I would have needed something between 1/8" and 3/16". One thing's for sure, 3/16" was too big in all places except one where I had to struggle with an old rusty screw. I might end up needing 3/16" rivets in a few more holes after I'm done with those screws...
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Old 03-01-2016, 11:29 AM   #19
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I get my rivets (alum rivet/alum stem) from McMaster Carr.
McMaster-Carr#






I feel snap caps are as much cosmetic as anything else while being cautious about whether the broken off part completely seals the rivet. I'm inclined to believe that while the end of the rivet breaks off inside the body of the rivet, that (potentially) waterproof seal is at the end of the rivet and water can get into the rivet hole with access to carpeting or whatever non-fiberglass layers there are being clamped.
I'm not sure that snap caps were even invented when the early Scamps were being made. At any rate,I have never seen a seventies model Scamp with snap caps. I have owned them up through '78.
I have pictures of a '78 with snap caps on the inside back splash but they appear to be aftermarket.
I did own an unmodified '81 with snap caps on the outside...First or second year??
My opinion is that they are cosmetic in purpose, in fact what ever sealing which may be given is taken away and worse if they are allowed to deteriorate.
OH! and BTW! LoveBug ECO and others had no caps. I think the same is true of Boler??
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Old 03-01-2016, 12:09 PM   #20
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I'll pass along a bit of advice that the Casita people gave me early on and that is when drilling out rivets don't use a drill bit more than 1/64" over the rivet size. The reason being so that the rivet expands beyond the hole not in the hole. Sylvio may have run into some cases where the previous owner went to town with whatever bit they had, perhaps something 1/32nd over. You work with what you find. Although, since I have plenty of both sizes I might be inclined to drill them to 3/16" and change over to 3/16 rivets. Especially if I found my new 1/8" rivets were pulling out too easily. Time would tell.


As long as we're passing along experiences I would mention that sometimes the rivet I'm drilling out gets to spinning with the drill bit so that drilling stops. If I can't get ahold of the rivet flange with a pair of needle nose pliers I have two alternate approaches. The first is that I found a pair of flush-cut side cut pliers with which I snip off the flange. Easily done if you have an aluminum stem rivet.
http://www.amazon.com/FastCap-PLIERS...lush+cut+plier


I also bought a cheap 3/4 wood chisel that I purposely rounded off the corners to keep them from damaging the fiberglass. If I carefully lay the chisel as flat as possible a modest tap with a hammer will shear an aluminum rivet head off. Practice somewhere unobstrusive. The flush-cut pliers are my preferred method but the pliers can be hard to find and not especially cheap.
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Old 03-01-2016, 01:26 PM   #21
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I'll pass along a bit of advice that the Casita people gave me early on and that is when drilling out rivets don't use a drill bit more than 1/64" over the rivet size. The reason being so that the rivet expands beyond the hole not in the hole.
Steve, I religiously follow your advice (that you passed along another one of my riveting threads).

As far as your special tools go, I want to say that you're equipped as if removing rivets was one of your hobbies or something...
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Old 03-01-2016, 01:34 PM   #22
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As far as your special tools go, I want to say that you're equipped as if removing rivets was one of your hobbies or something...
No, but buying tools is my hobby!
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Old 03-01-2016, 02:15 PM   #23
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I don't get the snap caps. I tried to Google "plastic snap cap scamp" and saw some pretty gooped up rivets, some loose caps but no cap in place on the camper. Any links to pictures and/or tutorial might help. But I don't think it's the way I want to go...
LOL your not on your own in that regard, the companies that built most Boler's did not see the need or reason for snap caps either. I can not recall actually having seen a Boler that came with them originally and lots of them are running around with the original rivets and no leaks.

As others suggest it more important that you use the right rivet type as well as right size re the diameter and length.
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Old 03-01-2016, 02:20 PM   #24
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I suspect that the extra compression space from the caps helps letting the riveted parts work against each other and promotes loose rivets.
Personally I used stainless screws and hardware, but mostly I was screwing into wood cabinets and bulkheads on my custom rebuild.


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Old 03-03-2016, 03:20 PM   #25
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Wendy,

Have you tried a ratcheting rivet gun? No.RG-95 Ratchet Rivet Gun?Hand tools?VESSEL Co., INC.

Or maybe get an air gun and see if your compressor can run it. With the time between rivets I can't see you needing too large of a compressor.

As for Fastenal, give them a call and your requirements, a salesman may find them for you.

Cheers
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Old 03-03-2016, 07:39 PM   #26
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Wendy,

Have you tried a ratcheting rivet gun? No.RG-95 Ratchet Rivet Gun?Hand tools?VESSEL Co., INC.

Or maybe get an air gun and see if your compressor can run it. With the time between rivets I can't see you needing too large of a compressor.
Wendy, I also have a cheap air compressor that takes several minutes to reach 80- 90 PPI. Yet it does a great job seating all size rivets using my Harbor Freight air gun. I can hold the air gun in one hand without any great effort, and i have small hands, and arthritis.

If you use one of HF's 20% off coupons, the price of the air gun is quite reasonable.

Bill
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Old 03-03-2016, 08:17 PM   #27
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As for Fastenal, give them a call and your requirements, a salesman may find them for you.

Cheers
Be warned Fastenal sells rivets by the box - the box will be enough to do your own trailer plus a couple of dozen of your friends. You will need to buy a whole box of the sizes you need.
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Old 03-08-2016, 03:37 PM   #28
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Thanks Bill. Yes I have a Walmart cheapie air compressor, oil less. I'm a regular at harbor freight. I'll check it out. With an air rivet gun, is there some practice required to get rivet in right? I know with hand gun, mandrel has snapped too early at times and a crappy loose rivet is what I got. Drill out again and cinch it down even slower. It's super hard for me, that's all I remember. Drilling old rivets out was much easier!


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