On the need to seal rivets... - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-08-2016, 04:04 PM   #29
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Thanks Bill. Yes I have a Walmart cheapie air compressor, oil less. I'm a regular at harbor freight. I'll check it out. With an air rivet gun, is there some practice required to get rivet in right? I know with hand gun, mandrel has snapped too early at times and a crappy loose rivet is what I got. Drill out again and cinch it down even slower. It's super hard for me, that's all I remember. Drilling old rivets out was much easier!


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I have used only two air rivet guns. One I borrowed from a friend, and the one I bought. Both from Harbor Freight, and the same model.

The one I borrowed would seat the rivet with the first pull in the trigger. Then it would discharge the rivet stem. The one i bought will not seat the rivet on the first pull of the trigger, it makes a popping noise, and then when I pull the trigger for the second it will "fire" and seat the rivet. Different from my friend's, but works fine for the job!

Both required just a little pressure to hold in place when seating a rivet, but are not near as hard to use as a hand riveter. I have not seated many rivets but have yet to end up with a loose rivet.

HF has two models...one green and one blue. My friend had a blue one, so that is what I bought. It's Item # 93458 i has 4 nose pieces for different size rivets.

3/16" Air Hydraulic Riveter

Good luck,

Bill
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Old 03-21-2016, 08:45 PM   #30
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Big day today. Spent the whole day in my friend's garage. Went back after supper to take care of glue and caulking since the Boler was nice and warm. It doesn't get that warm when I only go for a few hours...

I'm almost ready to paint. It semms like prep lasts forever! I thought I would put some Dynaflex 230 in the hole of each rivet. That felt like someone played a practical joke on me: to put something in the hole, the air needs to come out to make room...and it won't!

I also had to seal the screws and old rivets that had goop on them. I tried to do a cleaner job but to no avail. I'm really disappointed. I made so much progress today to make the trailer look nice and I feel like I just made it look really ugly... :-(
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Old 03-28-2016, 07:04 PM   #31
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Just need to be fair and highlight the fact that, on my next visit, the Dynaflex 230 had shrunk nicely and dried to a nice clear "color"! Perfect!
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Old 03-28-2016, 07:36 PM   #32
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And again...anyone know of a resource for rivet size/length and application for trailer? As I recall, my Scamp used a great deal of 3/16" rivets, but varying lengths.
RogerDat supplied this information, direct link: Scamp Rivet Size List
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Old 04-05-2016, 01:40 PM   #33
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Just checked that Fastenal link for closed end rivets. The rivets they list have an aluminum body BUT have a steel mandrel. I cannot imagine trying to break that mandrel of SS with my hands! If anyone has a supplier of these in all aluminum, could you please post?

And again...anyone know of a resource for rivet size/length and application for trailer? As I recall, my Scamp used a great deal of 3/16" rivets, but varying lengths.
I'm ordering rivets from https://www.boltdepot.com/ for my LiteHouse rebuild. They have an excellent selection of closed end aluminum rivets and will sell in smaller quantities.
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Old 04-05-2016, 04:11 PM   #34
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Just checked that Fastenal link for closed end rivets. The rivets they list have an aluminum body BUT have a steel mandrel. I cannot imagine trying to break that mandrel of SS with my hands! If anyone has a supplier of these in all aluminum, could you please post?

.
I was at Fastenal today to pick up some rivets and they do have as you say rivets that are a combo aluminum body with steel mandrel but they also do have ones that are aluminum body and mandrel - or at least the shop where I purchased mine do.
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Old 04-09-2016, 10:28 AM   #35
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ID:	94101I got these online. They're closed and the flange has a slight cut to it. They're supposed to be waterproof. I'm installing them with a tiny bit of sealant. I got the wrong size snap caps and I'm considering not using them except in the most visible places.


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Old 04-09-2016, 10:29 AM   #36
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Closed end


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Old 04-09-2016, 10:30 AM   #37
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Cut=cup. I blame it all on Siri.


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Old 04-09-2016, 11:38 AM   #38
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I think that these will work perfectly.
A little sealant on the shaft when you install it that will seal the hole and under the head and you are probably more sealed than with the plastic caps.
I used Gorilla Glue since it swells a little as it cures, but it also make a mess you would be better off without.
Some polyurethane or PU sealant might be good.
Wipe the excess off after you have pulled the rivet.
The older units dis not have the caps and I don't think they had problems.
Perhaps a little white paint with a small pointy brush would seal the rivets and blend with the fiberglass
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