OT: stuck bolt/nut combo - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 04-18-2010, 07:40 PM   #15
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Good idea Alf,
Makes me think of using 2 thin flat screwdrivers vice gripped onto a similar sized nut so the blades stick out a bit and tapping it into place between the plastic and nut.
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Old 04-18-2010, 08:19 PM   #16
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Can't you take the whole wheel assembly and bracket off and replace it? Looks like there should be a chair swivel substitute.
I haven't figured out how to do that. The swivel part is rivited or something into an aluminum block. There doesn't seem to be an obvious way to remove it.

My latest idea is to superglue the nut into position in the plastic and then try turning the bolt. If that doesn't work drilling or cutting a notch in the nut and holding it in place might be the next thing to try. Or Roy's idea sounds good.
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Old 04-18-2010, 08:47 PM   #17
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If you can find information about the manufacturer somewhere on the unit, and perhaps a model number, you might try to get a replacement directly from the manufacturer. The prosthetic appears to be a modern device, so probably still being manufactured. If so, I would get two new replacements, just in case.

Nice Pembroke!

Mike
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Old 04-18-2010, 09:02 PM   #18
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After a closer look at the photograph, I would suggest yoiu take a dremel tool with a VERY small grinder and grind out the remaining plastic that was stripped, and then widen the groove all around the recessed nut. Keep grinding the groove wider ( but NOT deeper) until you can fit a thin-walled socket over the nut.

You probably should first remove the other caster wheel and disassemble it to make sure how thick the plastic is, so you know how deep you can safely grind the groove on the damaged one without destroying the broken unit.

If that works, I would further suggest you do the same grind job on the other one, so you never have to rely upon a 1/16 of an inch of cheap plastic again to hold the nut while you unscrew the screw (bolt).

Good luck,

Mike
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Old 04-19-2010, 06:21 AM   #19
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If it is stripped. Can you get some gorilla glue or resin down around it to tighten it up? How about sone instant glue and let it seep in and leave it to set for a bit?
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Old 04-19-2010, 08:59 AM   #20
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If it is stripped. Can you get some gorilla glue or resin down around it to tighten it up? How about sone instant glue and let it seep in and leave it to set for a bit?
That's what I have tried but I haven't put it to the test yet.
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Old 04-19-2010, 12:36 PM   #21
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Bobbie,

Please read my previous reply again. Using a tiny grinder to remove the remnants of the hexagonal plastic recess, (rather than any of the metal nut) will not cause heat damage to the unit, while any attempt to grind or hacksaw any metal part will cause heat damage to the plastic.

You simply need to grind out what is left of the damaged plastic hexagonal recess which held the nut from turning. Then enlarge the diameter of the recess until a thin-walled socket can be fit over the nut. There is no need to grind any deeper than the depth of the original hexagonal recess.

The only problem is that you have already used super glue, which will likely not hold the metal nut to the plastic housing, but probably has managed to lock the nut securely to the screw. I recommend obtaining a bottle of CA glue Solvent and soaking the nut thoroughly several times before using a socket wrench of the appropriate size to hold the nut while turning the screw.

If I had it in my own shop it would take easily less than an hour to grind the plastic housing as suggested above, and remove the nut. I would also replace the nut with a "nyloc nut" which is a metal nut with a nylon shoulder which acts as a lock washer.

This assumes that the screw and nut are not "cross-threaded", which could be the reason the plastic stripped in the first place. (Hopefully not).

PS: I do not recommend trying to drill out the head of the screw, because the drill could bind and spin the screw/nut more, possibly creating more damage to the plastic. In addition, if the screw head is damaged, rather than drilled out successfully, you will have no way to unscrew the nut even if you can get a socket wrench over the nut.

Let us all know how you fare with your problem.

Mike
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Old 04-19-2010, 12:42 PM   #22
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Bobbie,

One more caution: be careful not to grind away any of the corners of the metal nut, as it is the corners of the nut that the socket needs to grip the nut.

MIke
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Old 04-19-2010, 12:48 PM   #23
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Mike: I did not put glue on the bolt, just on the outside of the nut.

I don't think the plastic is thick enough to risk grinding away- I started doing that but am wary of it. My major point is that I can use the wheels that are on there now, and I can't use them if I break something. I'm trying to put better wheels on, but not at the cost of breaking anything. If it were unusable now I wouldn't mind taking chances. The part doesn't detach easily in any way that I can see and the whole assembly is expensive.

How thin do sockets get? I only have standard ones, I don't think I've ever seen a thin-walled one. I'll pop by the hardware store and see about grinding wheels and sockets, though at this point I'm not sure I'm willing to try any more grinding.

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Old 04-19-2010, 01:34 PM   #24
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I'm trying to put in the original sized wheel which is a bit bigger than the pink ones shown. The other wheel was fine.
Suppose you do manage to take it out somehow, you'll also have to figure out how to hold the nut when you put the bolt back in.
I would probably consider replacing the caster myself.

However... How about drilling a small hole into the plastic, perpendicular to the nut, and into the nut, then pinning down the nut with a finishing nail through the hole?

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Old 04-20-2010, 02:31 PM   #25
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Bobbie,
Remember, you do not need to grind any deeper than the depth of the existing recess, just slightly larger in diameter that the current diameter of the point-to-point diameter of the nut. Actually, if you look closely at your first photo, at the bottom of the damaged depression, where the debris from the tearout is the worst, the tearout at that point is probably already as wide as you need to use a thin-walled socket, so you only need to widen the rest of the depression to match that clearance.

As for the "thin-walled" socket, that term is superfluous today, as virtually all sockets sold today are thin-walled, compared to the old ones...and I don't want to hear any cracks about my apparent age because of the "old ones" remark ;-). The cheap ones are thicker because they don't use good steel and would break in use if they were made as thin as the high quality ones. Craftsman, Proto, or any name brand should work.

How thin do sockets get? I only have standard ones, I don't think I've ever seen a thin-walled one. I'll pop by the hardware store and see about grinding wheels and sockets, though at this point I'm not sure I'm willing to try any more grinding.

Remember, you need a VERY TINY grinder bit. The diameter of the grinder bit must be less than the desired width of the clearance needed. If you need a 1/8th inch wide clearance, you should use a 1/16 inch bit or smaller, so you can nibble away at it a little at a time. You can always make it bigger, but you can't make it smaller. Dremel sells such small bits, and probably others as well.

The only other way I can think of would be to use small carving knives to nibble away at the clearance. However, most carving tools are very, very very sharp.

Good Luck!

PS: Ar you going to be at the spring or fall NOG, or the big Oregon Gathering at Bandon, or the Mary Hill mini gathering, or the WA state gathering? If so, let me know and I'll take a look at it at any of those events.

Mike
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Old 04-20-2010, 04:06 PM   #26
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Well, what I have done most recently is go to the hardware store to see if they had any thin-walled sockets (they didn't) and decided the best bet was replacing the caster as there is a company in town that sells nothing but. I'm going down there tomorrow to see if I can get a pair that will work.

And no to any gatherings... my dog has a degenerative disease similar to ALS and it is cramping my camping style at the moment. I'm going to a corgi campout at Grayland Beach only because I know I can easily use the stroller or his cart there on the smooth blacktop and even on the beach if we drive onto it, and that's it for camping this summer.
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Old 04-21-2010, 07:09 AM   #27
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Well, what I have done most recently is go to the hardware store to see if they had any thin-walled sockets (they didn't)
Snap-On sell thin walled sockets.
Joe
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Old 04-21-2010, 04:14 PM   #28
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Fresno Ag Hardware referred me to Industrial Caster and Wheel in Fresno, and they were able to help by finding a replacement caster and changing its stem to match the one that was stuck. So I'm all set, and thanks for all the ideas!
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