outside light switch won't move - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-29-2006, 02:21 PM   #1
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I can't budge that black light switch. Any suggestions on how to get it loosened up? Would W/D 40 be an option? I would rather have that switch stuck on instead of off if I had a choice. Thanks
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Old 05-29-2006, 03:04 PM   #2
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More than likely corroded. Radio Shack sells some excellent contact cleaner although it is expensive. It is not the Radio Shack brand even though they sell it there. It has 2 very small spray cans in a plastic carton. Costs around $15.

Use it on all your taillight and other connections to clean and protect.

If you can get to the switch, spray the corrosion remove stuff on, wait then try to switch it on.

Another suggestion: Remove the switch and soak it in baking soda overnight and see if it will remove the corrosion.

Best suggestion: Go to Radio Shack and get a new switch.
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Old 05-29-2006, 03:12 PM   #3
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Karalyn,
I had difficulty locating a replacement switch, so I replaced the whole lamp for about $7 from Camping World. About a week later I found a switch at another R.V. place, but it was a dollar more than the new light.
Kurt & Ann K.
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Old 05-29-2006, 03:19 PM   #4
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I would rather have that switch stuck on instead of off if I had a choice.
Bet folks camping around you would prefer it be stuck off

An entire brand new light cost me about $7 at an RV supply place here in town. Probably be easier and cheaper in the long run to replace it, rather than repair...as reported by others.
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Old 05-29-2006, 04:57 PM   #5
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Gee Donna, does the light glow that brightly!
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Old 05-29-2006, 05:21 PM   #6
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You can use LPS, it is a more friendly solution, and won't destroy the plastic.
Many Contact cleaners can make the plastic surrounding the contacts extremely brittle, and prone to disintigrating. One of our purchasers at work got a good deal on contact cleaner, and bought it instead of the regular spray we had been using, after about two weeks, we spent about 3 months replacing switches that self destructed when used.
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Old 05-29-2006, 11:26 PM   #7
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it can aslo melt plastic into a gooey mush. You have to be careful which ones you use.

Buying a whole new assembly is the best (and cheapest) way to go. Any RV store has them.

Get an amber lens. It is less annoying.
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Old 05-29-2006, 11:27 PM   #8
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Well. when all else fails..............
I tried W/D 40 and it worked. After reading Joe's post I am wondering if I will be replacing self distructing light in a few weeks. HOPE NOT.
Oh, W/D 40 works great on stainless steel also. I cleaned the sink with it and it really shines now.
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Old 05-30-2006, 06:50 AM   #9
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wd-40 will not destroy the contacts or the plastic, we just prefer LPS-1 because it is also non conductive, so it's ok on 600v contacts
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Old 05-30-2006, 08:14 AM   #10
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Karalyn,
As Joe said, LPS-1 is really the best choice. It does not continue to attract dirt like WD-40. When I ran the maintenance program for Guide Dogs of the Desert, our locksmith would not warrantee his work if anything other than LPS-1 was used to lubricate the locks. It is a product which should be in everyone's arsenal for electrical contact cleaner, lock maintenance, and many other light weight lubricant requirements.

You may have to search a bit to find LPS-1 on the shelf. I've found it more available at small hardware stores than auto parts stores.
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Old 05-30-2006, 08:36 AM   #11
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I used the same silicone grease that I put on the trailer plug on the porch light switch. That was three years ago and it still works. It also helps keep moisture off of the contacts in side marker lights.
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Old 05-30-2006, 05:27 PM   #12
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Petroleum based lubricants will swell brass and make a lock with brass inside and expensive clocks with brass works lock up.

The old brass military locks have a round hole in the bottom and many people think this is to oil the lock and when the private puts oil on the hole, 2 weeks from that day the whole lock is seized up. The hole is for assembly, not oil.

WD 40 stands for water displacement and does not conduct electricity. It has been said that it will deteriorate some rubber products like O-rings. It is used for almost everything and is a great product; just donít squirt it in your air-operated tools because of the O-ring situation.

Down here in the Commonwealth of Virginia, fishermen spray WD 40 on their worms.
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Old 05-30-2006, 06:17 PM   #13
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Brass swelling from petroleum bases lubricants is a new one to me.....used petroleum based lubes to cool and lube brass in machining operations with close tolerances and never knew that to happen.... in my humble opinion, locks normally should only be lubed with flake graphite.....I`ve never used LPS on locks so can`t comment on it.....just read the spray can and uses are ideal for precision components and delicate mechanisms...interesting....sprayed a bit on my finger and made it oily, don`t know if it`ll evaporate....sorry, made my fingers and keyboard oily, LOL.....Also right about WD-40 being non conductive.....that`s why you could spray the inside of wet distributor caps with it so you could start your engines....WD also makes a decent hand cleaner for paints, etc in a pinch....Benny
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Old 05-31-2006, 10:14 AM   #14
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Clocks use a non petro lube. At one time in my life i colected clocks and found this out from watch makers.
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