Painting a boler by hand? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-23-2013, 03:40 PM   #15
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many, many years ago, in our wild and wonderous youth, we were given his well-used buick skylark by my father-in-law. i cannot remember the year....but suffice it to say, if i'm talking 1980 or so, the darn car had to be at least 1970 or we'd never have had it!

it needed a paint job. we were dirt poor young newlyweds on a strict budget. so....out came the tremclad! (i think it's rust-oleum in the states).

some rollers, nothing fancy...believe me, truly nothing fancy! but we went at 'er.
it actually turned out really pretty good...all things considered. we kept that old car for a couple of years until we could afford something else. and the paint job, even though FAR from perfect, never showed one speck of rust or other signs of wear.
now, i'd certainly do a better prep job than we did....but hey---i know from experience that it'll still turn out looking surprisingly good!

good luck
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Old 03-23-2013, 04:56 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Miller View Post
IMHO: Interlux Briteside is the ONLY way to go... We used it on our 1973 Hunter and it came out great, most lookers see it as looking like it's new.

Yes, some of the $50 jobs will come out acceptable, but sooo many more will always look like a $50 paint job. BTW: Most of the Rust-Oleum jobs shown are new, what will it look like after 1-2 years of sun exposure?

Read up on "Roll and Tip" application technique, do 4 times as much prep as you think you need to do, get the correct undercoat, and go for it with the Interlux stuff. Out of pocket for paint and materials will be about $200, but it will still look like a $1000 paint job 5 years from now.

Interlux Brightside is available at better boating supply stores.
There are many that are going on 6-7 years and still looking good.

Would I do it on an expensive car? No. On an old camper? Absolutely. The marine paint would be better probably, still same idea/method.
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Old 03-23-2013, 05:09 PM   #17
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About 10 years ago we checked out an Airstream Argosy that was for sale. They were the line of Airstreams that were not natural Aluminum but were painted a creme color. Anyway the guy used a roller to repaint it. It was awful!!

Many years ago I bought a spray gun and a compressor. Within the next few years a pal and myself painted over 50 cars in our driveway. Not perfect but very nice. A spray gun and compressor can be bought for a couple hundred dollars. Automotive paints are pricy but are very durable. You would need to find a place outside a residential area to spray the egg as over spray can drift to areas nearby.

This was the last car I painted in the driveway. Good enough to be featured in a magazine.
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Old 03-25-2013, 01:10 AM   #18
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OH WOW!!!! I go away from this thread for a day and look at all the info!!!!! Thank you so much. I love this forum. Thank you Everyone. Your time and input is much appreciated. I will post pics when we figure out what we are going to do. :-)
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Old 03-25-2013, 12:30 PM   #19
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My tip for getting a really good paint finish when brushing by hand is to have really good skill level, or get trained by someone who has. Having worked with a fully-trained coachbuilder (who had previously painted buses, yes buses, by hand/brush), I can testify that a really skilled hand painter can achieve as good a finish as a spray gun - but the rest of us will just stand there slack-jawed and depressed at the skill level involved.
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Old 03-25-2013, 07:28 PM   #20
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A minor trick of...Painting F.G with...rollers.

...Talking about painting, either manually or robotic, there are all kinds of paint materials which will be applied on the wanted subjects. From air-dried, quick process without baking to..water-based (private body shops) or one-shot urethane process(with baking) of manufacturers(for transport trucks' frames), there are TOO MUCH to mention about... Here is my simple trick of those, home make, self act, DIY economically projects into a...nicely paint job which is...ACCEPTABLE AND ADMIRABLE. Using rollers to paint, eventually it will LEAVE THE TRACE OF ROLLING EDGES after every stroke. To minimize that effect, one should realize that he/she should use either...THINNER PAINT(which is proned to be..sagging) or...SLOW DRIED paint. The latter option is often choosen by home painters which would give out better out come in combination of mulitple coats. Just my personal study. Thanks for reading.
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Old 03-25-2013, 07:45 PM   #21
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There are only three things to mention when home painting a FGRV:

1. Preparation: No matter what you put on, it won't look good unless you do good prep work. This is the area where most home paint jobs fail.

2. Material: There seems to be a direct relationship between price and quality in marine grade paints for fiberglass. Interlux Briteside costs more because is just plain a lot better product. Non-marine paints shouldn't even be considered.

3. Technique: "Roll and tip" lays paints down beautifully, no roller marks, no brush marks and it's easy for the Newbee to learn how to do.
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Old 03-25-2013, 09:14 PM   #22
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It seems like the primary goal is to make an unsightly exterior passably OK so that it doesn't attract unwanted attention. Then maybe later do a more professional make over.

If so, I wouldn't spend too much time on the initial paint. I'd give it a once over with rolled on Tremclad. Then I'd add a contrasting stripe or graphic. I've done that with a spray bomb. The end result would achieve the goal. Only a close up inspection would reveal that it's not a pro job. A contrasting stripe goes a long way to distracting the eye from blemishes.

Of course you'll bring it to the BC Glass Egg meet in June so the we can all admire it.
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Old 03-26-2013, 08:20 AM   #23
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Built a boat and hand painted with a brush. I used an industrial enamel for the job. I did 2 coats with brush strokes in opposite directions. sanded with 400 wet/dry just to get the high spots off, repeated with two more coats. used 400, 800, 3200 the polished with glazing compound. You could easily see your reflection in it and there were no brush marks left. I let the paint cure (harden) for a month before the final sanding with the 3200 and glazing compound.

My casita is pretty faded from sitting in the West Texas sun for years with no maintenance. I've actually considered painting it too...
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Old 03-26-2013, 08:44 AM   #24
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There will always be those that won't be happy without a totally professional job and then the opposite camp that says as long as it's clean and safe to go down the road, to heck with what others think.. I'm going camping and make memories (that's me)! Then those inbetweeners. Frankly, I like the looks of Brady's and Jenny's Boler with an exterior in Durabak (bottom pics): Picasa Web Albums - Brady and Jenny's... - BOLER#

Seems like a good compromise YMMV
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Old 03-26-2013, 09:42 AM   #25
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I keep waffling back and forth on painting my 1984 Scamp 19. Besides the obvious work of pulling out the zillions of rivets, windows, hatches, etc. the fiberglass itself is very wavy as compared to say a Corvette or other fiberglass vehicle that you would want a nice custom paint job on. I don't know if it because of the extra weight of the overhead bunk but no one could hope to make this thing straight enough for my taste. Now I'm thinking of just going with the rivets, et all, and come up with a really aggressive industrial motif (yellow submarine isn't gonna happen lol). Any ideas or pics let me have them.
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Old 03-26-2013, 10:02 AM   #26
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...Any ideas or pics let have them.
Fourteen pages worth of ideas here Steve. Pick one you like! http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...obs-25303.html
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Old 03-26-2013, 10:41 AM   #27
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I'd also considered rolling a layer of white bed liner onto the Casita. From a distance it would just be a white Casita. Stuff has held up amazingly well in my truck bed, why not coat a trailer in Rhino liner?
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Old 03-26-2013, 10:59 AM   #28
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I think arlon hit it in post #23.
It's been a given that the first important step is proper prep.
Arlon shows that the last important step is proper finish.

A good paint job requires a lot of "elbow grease."
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