Parkliner hinges rusting! - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-27-2015, 09:49 PM   #41
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Name: Dale
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A bit disconcerting that the hinges are already showing rust on a 2014 model. Has this been an ongoing problem with earlier models too, but just now coming to light?
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Old 08-28-2015, 06:05 AM   #42
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A bit disconcerting that the hinges are already showing rust on a 2014 model. Has this been an ongoing problem with earlier models too, but just now coming to light?
It certainly has been a problem with our 2013 model. The majority of the rust was on the plain steel washers which had not been painted unlike the other hinge components. As I mentioned in my post #17 in this thread, my bigger concern was the difficulty I had latching the deadbolt without having to lift up on the lower corner of the door. Replacing the two steel washers at each hinge with four stainless steel washers raised the door enough that the deadbolt now works perfectly and hopefully the rust can be kept at bay with regular lubrication of the hinges. So far it seems to be working...
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Old 08-28-2015, 07:15 AM   #43
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Just a re-cap here. Looks like I need some 316 SS washers in 3/8 size, and a spary can of Boeshield T9. My door works fine, it's the darn rust that harms my aesthetic sensitivities. It's good to know about the Husky u-joints too. Hopefully I'll not need them. Once I get a chance to get at this I WILL report back. Thanks all!

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Old 08-30-2015, 02:25 PM   #44
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I ordered a bottle of it for mine as well...and to squirt some into door locks as well.
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Old 09-04-2015, 09:19 AM   #45
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The hinges were done in this way because he was hanging a curved door on a curved trailer side so accurate alignment was not the solution. Molding flats in the two parts would have allowed a wider choice of higher quality stainless fittings.
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Old 09-04-2015, 09:22 AM   #46
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or if he had some custom stainless steel parts made exactly like what was being used.
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Old 09-04-2015, 09:06 PM   #47
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door not lining up

The upper left corner of our door is digging into the door frame. The upper hinge is not properly supporting the door. Looks like I may need to replace some parts here.
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Old 09-05-2015, 03:34 AM   #48
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The hinges were done in this way because he was hanging a curved door on a curved trailer side so accurate alignment was not the solution. Molding flats in the two parts would have allowed a wider choice of higher quality stainless fittings.
Molding flats can have it's issues as well if the hinges are not set correctly. I ran into that on my Trillium. This is a clever solution with a poor choice of parts. Has anyone removed a hinge and looked for a manufacturer? From the picture it looks like a plated strap hinge that they welded the universal joint to. Since Kobalt is a Lowes brand I wonder if the hinges came from there as well. If you can get the same parts, you could make a spare should the hinge fail down the road. Not perfect but better than nothing. Good luck, Raz
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Old 09-05-2015, 06:37 PM   #49
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Sounds like a plan. I will do the same. A friend of mine has a Harbor Freight shop lift which I plan to use to lift and hold the door while I replace the washers and lube the hinges.
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Old 09-05-2015, 06:43 PM   #50
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When I visited Parkliner last year for installation of my awning, the techs noted a similar problem with my door. They removed the door and upper hinge and moved the hinge a bit to the right by re drilling the holes. The door lined up fine after that.
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Old 09-07-2015, 09:27 PM   #51
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Thanks Bill. So I've got one option here.
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Old 09-08-2015, 05:12 AM   #52
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When I visited Parkliner last year for installation of my awning, the techs noted a similar problem with my door. They removed the door and upper hinge and moved the hinge a bit to the right by re drilling the holes. The door lined up fine after that.
Bill
Same with mine.

I think what happened with mine is my site was extremely sloped, so I had to use 3 2x6's plus crank it all the way up. A big gust of wind hit me and ripped the door out of my hand when I was getting out of the trailer. I think the stress was enough to twist the door and get it out of alignment.

I added some washers which made the door usable until Parkliner fixed it.
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Old 09-15-2015, 03:30 PM   #53
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Frank, Check out the hinges that Scamp uses. They are also "articulated" to accommodate the curved door and trailer surfaces.
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scamp hinges.jpg   scamp hinge pin.jpg  

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Old 09-18-2015, 05:20 PM   #54
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Nice!!
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Old 09-18-2015, 05:23 PM   #55
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Frank, Check out the hinges that Scamp uses. They are also "articulated" to accommodate the curved door and trailer surfaces.
Thanks Robert, but no problems with the hinges other than aesthetics. I got my can of T-9, just need some SS washers. Heck, even SS can rust. I got small SS clasps for my stinky slinky holder last year and they're rusting already!

Thanks,

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Old 07-01-2019, 01:04 PM   #56
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Ok, let's reopen this door hinge wound. What an Achilles heel this issue is for the PL!

On my 2016 Parkliner, the door hinges can't keep paint on the hinges. It flakes off in short order whenever I repaint it. I even took it to the guy who fixes our cars when deer or bears run into us (a good bit around here) and asked him about it. He said he didn't think he could get conventional paint to adhere to those hinges.

As a first alternative option, he suggested trying the product, "Flex Seal." It comes in white.

I find it an interesting possibility. At this point, what do I have to lose?

What do y'all think?
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Old 07-03-2019, 06:54 AM   #57
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I am having trouble with my 2014 door. My door is a bit askew and doesn't want to close unless I lift it up by the handle. Anyone else having that problem
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Old 07-03-2019, 12:08 PM   #58
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I am having trouble with my 2014 door. My door is a bit askew and doesn't want to close unless I lift it up by the handle. Anyone else having that problem
George H gave me the solution and it's moderately easy.

You have to take the door off (lift up and remove) and then move the top hinge. In my case it was pretty bad and I had to move the hinge almost an inch toward the front of the trailer and up about 3/4".

While you have the door off and the hinge off, it's a good time to clean and repaint the hinge. I took the lower hinge off as well. I soaked the universals in some mineral spirits and removed all the paint, lubed them, and put back on. I left the stainless part of the hinge natural - no paint.

My hinges still need to be repainted. My help disappeared and I had to take the door off and put back on by myself. Someday when I have some help, I will clean up and repaint the hinges and small section on trailer.

In 1st picture, expand it and you can see where the 1st hole I drilled is (below the hinge). That's when I realized I also had to raise the hinge. The 2nd picture shows how the door is perfectly aligned now. I measured without the washers, so when I put the door back on there wasn't any room for washers. Doesn't seem to impact the door opening/closing at all.

Parkliner used carriage bolts, but only made 1 of the 2 holes square. It looks like they used an angle grinder to cut the square part of the head off one bolt so it fits in a round hole. It may spin on you when you go to tighten it down.

Another tip George gave me was to put a dab of caulk in the top of the hinge to keep water out and hopefully prevent future rusting.
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fixed upper hinge.jpg   aligned.jpg  

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Old 07-03-2019, 12:39 PM   #59
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Thanks Huck, I appreciate this information
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