Parkliner - Open Neutral at Air Conditioner - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-13-2014, 12:49 PM   #1
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Parkliner - Open Neutral at Air Conditioner

I posted before that my Air Conditioner in new Parkliner doesn't work. I reset the GFCI and it still didn't work. The ac is wedged in and barely moves. It is almost impossible to get to the plug.

Brian M. in NY suggested that if I removed the 2 screws under the ac, it might slide out. I finally got around to it and after removing the screws the ac moved enough to get to the plug.

I plugged the ac directly into extension cord and ac works. Then I plugged it back into outlet and it didn't work. Then I plugged it into the outlet next to the propane detector and it worked.

I then plugged a circuit tester into the "bad" outlet and the tester indicates an open neutral (on both receptacles). From what I read, this means the white wire isn't connected. I don't think there is enough room to get to the back of the outlet.

Some questions:
  • How do I trace the wire?
  • Where is the fuse box and are circuits labeled?
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Old 05-13-2014, 01:00 PM   #2
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Gee Huck, I'm not home, but doesn't that dinette seat lift up and give you access there? Seems to me I've looked in there somehow, and there is space behind the AC unit, and access for that plug. If all it is, is the plug, it should be easy to fix. Unplug the shore power and disconnect the battery 1st.

It was finally hot this past weekend and I had the vent fan on with the AC low and it sure was nice in 006!

Best of luck!

Frank
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Old 05-13-2014, 01:13 PM   #3
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Gee Huck, I'm not home, but doesn't that dinette seat lift up and give you access there? Seems to me I've looked in there somehow, and there is space behind the AC unit, and access for that plug.

Frank
You would think so, wouldn't you. If the ac vent screwed on instead of fastened with rivets, it would be a piece of cake.

Couldn't the open be at the other end or the wire?
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Old 05-13-2014, 01:32 PM   #4
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I think rivets can be drilled out and replaced with screws. You should be able to access both sides of the screen to put the nuts on. I haven't checked the area to see what you may be confronting though.
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Old 05-13-2014, 01:34 PM   #5
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You would think so, wouldn't you. If the ac vent screwed on instead of fastened with rivets, it would be a piece of cake.

Couldn't the open be at the other end or the wire?
Huck, I'll be home in a couple hours and take a look-see. I could swear I have access to that plug somehow.

Frank
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Old 05-13-2014, 02:06 PM   #6
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Huck, I'll be home in a couple hours and take a look-see. I could swear I have access to that plug somehow.

Frank
Thanks.
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Old 05-13-2014, 03:45 PM   #7
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If you can get the Ac unit out (I didn't look at that), this is what I see for access behind. I just lifted up the dinette seat to get this pic.

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Old 05-13-2014, 03:49 PM   #8
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If you can get the Ac unit out (I didn't look at that), this is what I see for access behind. I just lifted up the dinette seat to get this pic.
I couldn't see how the box was attached. Just not enough room to get your hands in there.
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Old 05-13-2014, 04:36 PM   #9
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Check your personal messages Huck...

Frank
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Old 05-13-2014, 05:36 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Huck View Post
[*]Where is the fuse box and are circuits labeled?


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Huck I don't know what type of converter you have but it possible that you have fuses inside of it - perhaps one of them is for the outlet in question.

I would start there before messing around with other things.
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Old 05-13-2014, 08:12 PM   #11
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The switching or fusing of neutral conductors is only allowed by the NEC in limited circumstances . ( IE Gasoline dispensing pumps. Hospital operating rooms) The code also requires that the hot and neutral be simultaneously disconnected .If you have 120 VAC between the line (hot) conductor and the equipment grounding conductor but not between the line (hot) and neutral conductor at the A/C receptacle, you have lost the neutral (grounded identified ) conductor. Unless the A/C was improperly (illegally) wired at the factory ,the problem is not a blown fuse. I would check the neutral connection at both the receptacle and at the neutral buss
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Old 05-13-2014, 08:32 PM   #12
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Maybe you can call Parkliner and get them to authorize a local RV company to do the repair. It certainly sounds like a case for "Proof of Merchantability" of a product, otherwise referred to as the "Unwritten Warranty".

They can certainly use the positive press hereabouts.
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Old 05-13-2014, 08:41 PM   #13
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Maybe you can call Parkliner and get them to authorize a local RV company to do the repair. It certainly sounds like a case for "Proof of Merchantability" of a product, otherwise referred to as the "Unwritten Warranty".

They can certainly use the positive press hereabouts.
Boy, tell me about it. After months of communication to get ours down for warranty repair next week, I get an email last Friday canceling the visit. Gee, great, a week of vacation time at a condo for nothing. The condo was just to wait while repairs were done, & I can't get out of it at this late date. They tell me they will fix these problems, but later. For me, that means more time & expense (at least a grand). It seems to me that if they kept the folks happy who owned these trailers, they would all be volunteer salespersons!

Frank
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Old 05-13-2014, 08:42 PM   #14
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Huck
(post 8 ?) The electrical box is an old work box. You will have to get access to the front of the box to remove it. But if you get there you can get to the wires anyway.
Eddie
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