Parkliner Tire Rub issues? - Page 17 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-17-2013, 04:11 PM   #225
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Name: george
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Originally Posted by Birmingham1 View Post
I had the same thought. Then I looked closer...

If it were not welded on, that would probably work. Actually, if it were JUST welded on that would probably work. Besides just welding it on, they cut out a section of the front-to-back frame rail in order to fit the axle to the frame.

They would have to cut off the axle at all points, and that would leave tunnel shaped cut-outs on each front-to-back frame rail. If I were going to that expense, would have them repair the frame rails, and then attach the axle properly to the frame without welding.

I have no idea how much all of that might cost.
Oh. I see what you are describing now. Well dang......was hoping there would be a simple and quick fix !

Maybe if you pull the tire off, and take a handful of photos from different angles and post them up, then folks could put their heads together and come up with some ideas ?
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Old 08-17-2013, 04:12 PM   #226
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So "accrete", are you saying the two wheel wells themselves are not the same size? That the curbside wheel well is physically smaller than the street side wheel well? If true, then that seems to be another indication that the fiberglass mold for the bottom half of the body could use some re-engineering. And if Parkliner is willing to entertain that idea, then I'll second the notion from a previous post that enough functional wheel well clearance to accommodate upgrading to 15" rims/tires would be a great idea. If there is to be a fix, then fix it all at once. And while we're rambling on about this, it seems like bolting the axle to the frame (as was also suggested in a previous post), rather than welding the axle in as an integral part of the frame, would allow simple alignment adjustments since improper alignment of the welded axle was suggested as another possible problem in a previous post - accepting that bolting would raise the trailer a bit, which some say they would prefer anyway. But hey, bolting would help give more room for 15" wheels and make it easier to replace the axle 20-30 years down the road when those torsion bars ultimately weaken. Just saying....

Still hoping to be the proud owner of a ParkLiner someday....
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Old 08-17-2013, 04:14 PM   #227
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Here is a picture of the welded axle and frame.
Attached Thumbnails
20130817_160716.jpg  
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Old 08-17-2013, 04:14 PM   #228
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Originally Posted by Birmingham1 View Post
Besides just welding it on, they cut out a section of the front-to-back frame rail in order to fit the axle to the frame.
They C-notched the frame without reinforcement for an off-the-shelf torsion axle with mounts which are not designed to complete the bottom of the frame?

Whatever it cost to fix, it might be worth it to have a properly aligned suspension and structurally sound frame.

Maybe this isn't as bad as it sounds - does anyone have a photo showing this? Mark, that would be like your photo but from the outside looking inward (with the wheel removed to show the axle mount), rather than from underneath looking out.
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Old 08-17-2013, 04:21 PM   #229
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Unfortunately I don't have the funds for a "whatever it costs to fix" scenario. I wish I did!

I can try to take some better pictures tomorrow, but it is supposed to be raining.

You are pretty much looking at the mount though...it just welded like that all the way across.
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Old 08-17-2013, 04:36 PM   #230
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In regards a notched frame...

I may be wrong here, but the floor on a Parkliner sits at the bottom of the frame, and as the axle sits under that, there is no need to notch the frame. Look at the photo from Thom in post #163 of this thread...
Parkliner Tire Rub issues?



I think that it is the axle mounting bracket that is notched around the axle - by the axle supplier.

Of course, with the different axles, etc. used by Parkliner from time to time, its hard to compare one to another.
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Old 08-17-2013, 04:36 PM   #231
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Actually it doesn't look to be "that" involved of a repair. Cutting the axle off, welding some plates and gussets to restore the frame rails to "as good or actually better" than they were originally would not be that big of a deal. It would appear that the design was in fact made that way to keep the coach itself whatever that is....3 or 4 inches closer to the ground. So.....cutting the axle off as I described above, and doing a reinstall with the coach on top of the axle would raise it, and from how you describe the rub issue, that wou
s solve that problem. If I am understanding it correctly, that too would allow you to attach the axle using brcakets instead of welding on the tube itself, which as I hear some saying is prohibited by the axle mfr due to heat issues to the rubber.
Now then, if a person wants to keep the coach at the present height, I suppose we would have to reconsider how to cut this loose, modify the frame, and re-attach in the correct position....and how to accomplish that without damaging ( or further damaging ? ) the rubber suspension components.

More pictures needed for more staring and thinking !

Seperate issue, once apart, it might be a time to consider darco wrap for the floor ? At least worth considering, if you are one that believes that is a good way to do the bottom of these trailers.
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Old 08-17-2013, 04:39 PM   #232
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Quote:
Originally Posted by accrete View Post
... stock 14x205 bias ply tires replaced with the 14x185 LTradials...
Just to be clear, I believe that these actual sizes are as reported in this earlier post:
Quote:
Originally Posted by accrete View Post
Factory stock tire:
205/D14 Bias Ply - 6 ply with 1760lb cap

Possible solution tried as mentioned:
185/r14 Light Truck Radial - 8 ply with 1874lb cap
This specifies radial rather than bias-ply, but I assume it's just a typo...
Quote:
Originally Posted by accrete View Post
on tires/wheels...
we have 205/75/r14 in load range C...
The 185R14 "Light Truck Radial" may be an LT tire, but it could also be a commercial tire (such as the Kumho Radial 857)
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Old 08-17-2013, 04:46 PM   #233
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Yes, those are good pics! The bracket is notched around the axle, but the Parkliner frame is also notched around the axle. Thom's pictures do a good job of showing that too.

I am not sure why the notched the frame, other than as someone else said, to lower the ride height.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GPJ View Post
In regards a notched frame...

I may be wrong here, but the floor on a Parkliner sits at the bottom of the frame, and as the axle sits under that, there is no need to notch the frame. Look at the photo from Thom in post #163 of this thread...
Parkliner Tire Rub issues?

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/a...8&d=1367595897

I think that it is the axle mounting bracket that is notched around the axle - by the axle supplier.

Of course, with the different axles, etc. used by Parkliner from time to time, its hard to compare one to another.
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Old 08-17-2013, 04:52 PM   #234
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Originally Posted by Birmingham1 View Post
Yes, those are good pics! The bracket is notched around the axle, but the Parkliner frame is also notched around the axle. Thom's pictures do a good job of showing that too.

I am not sure why the notched the frame, other than as someone else said, to lower the ride height.
Ok, when you refer to the "frame", are you referring to the major front to back beams on each side of the trailer, or are you also referring to the smaller angle iron pieces that support the floor, and are welded to the axle beam itself?
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Old 08-17-2013, 04:53 PM   #235
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They C-notched the frame without reinforcement for an off-the-shelf torsion axle with mounts which are not designed to complete the bottom of the frame?
...

Maybe this isn't as bad as it sounds - does anyone have a photo showing this?
I have been reviewing this entire thread, and ran across Thom's original posting of photos:
Quote:
Originally Posted by accrete View Post
i took some pictures in case my eyes were deceiving me...
(follow the link to review the photos)

Mark, if the only parts they notched are the angle iron floor supports, and not the main frame rails where the axle brackets are, then the notching isn't a structural problem... at least not any more than welding floor structure to the axle cross-tube in the first place!
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Old 08-17-2013, 05:05 PM   #236
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I also noted that in both the original Flexiride installation, and in the Torflex installation, the mounting to the frame is incorrect. The long side of the axle bracket is supposed to align with one face of the frame tube, but instead the short side of the axle bracket is aligned with the outside face of the 1.5" wide frame tube, and the long (primary) side of that bracket is in the middle of a 1" wide angle iron used to support the floor. This is an error indicating that the person doing the design didn't even read the freely available technical information from the axle manufacturers, let alone understand the structural implications.

The correction would simply be to order the brackets flipped the other way around, which is a routinely available option.

The angle iron for the floor may be unfamiliar, because most trailers run the floor across the top of the frame rails, while Parkliner has apparently set the floor down at the bottom on the frame and supported the edge with these angles. This is a valid approach to lowering the trailer. Doing this with longitudinal floor supports (rather than the more obvious crossmember approach) is what got them into the highly questionable welding of angle pieces to the axle cross-tube.

The improperly attached axle may be familiar, because this is how Scamp messed up a large number of their 16' and 19' trailers a few years ago. In this case it might not be so bad, because the angle piece on the side of the frame rail will somewhat compensate for the error.
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Old 08-17-2013, 05:26 PM   #237
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I wish I would have taken a picture of the raw frames they had when I was at the factory! I think that would have given everyone all the views they needed.

The frame of the trailer has beams, front to back. The axle tube is basically used as a left to right support beam in the middle of the trailer. To accomplish that, they made cut-outs across the width of the trailer in each of the front-to-back beams.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GPJ View Post
Ok, when you refer to the "frame", are you referring to the major front to back beams on each side of the trailer, or are you also referring to the smaller angle iron pieces that support the floor, and are welded to the axle beam itself?
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Old 08-17-2013, 05:41 PM   #238
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Coming from a totally different direction on this - back in post #110 of this thread, Mark included a photo from inside the ParkLiner shop back when he picked up his trailer. On the left of the photo is a stack of frames with tongues. It's hard to tell if they have axles already welded in place because that's out of the photo (Mark, any other photos that would show that?). But I assume that at least the bottom frame in the stack has axle and tires mounted because of it's height off the ground and the yellow hitch trolley attached to the front for moving them. So, do you suppose ParkLiner has a third party weld together batches of frames for them with axles already welded in place? And maybe a whole batch of frames (those in the ~030 series that have surfaced with problems) had misaligned axels? Or do you think ParkLiner welds their own frames in batches to pull from and use as they need? Probably only ParkLiner knows the answer, but the reason I ask is if these frames are being welded together by a third party, and that third party is responsible for the possible misalignment issue and apparently related tire rubbing problem, then it might be time to contract with a different frame provider. I imagine it would cost more, maybe substantially more, but contracting with an established, reputable aluminum utility trailer company (like FeatherLite, for example) to custom build a strong, light-weight aluminum frame (and integral aluminum tongue?) to then bolt an axle under and mount the coach on could solve a lot of headaches and maybe even lighten the weight of the final package. Again, I'm not sure what changing to an aluminum undercarriage would add to the final cost of a small, light weight camper trailer like a ParkLiner. But when one has a big headache, one is often willing to pay a little more for big relief. Just throwing that out there in case ParkLiner is listening in and still searching for ideas....
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