Parkliner Tire Rub issues? - Page 19 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-18-2013, 01:05 AM   #253
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Originally Posted by Birmingham1 View Post
Knowing what I know now I would have taken more pictures of that stack of frames than I would of Marisa Miller...
I'm glad the PL's bare no family resemblance to Ms.Miller because the line during the last EggFest to see the inside would have been substantially longer than it already was

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Originally Posted by Andy B View Post
I have not read all the posts, but if I understand correctly the tires rub on the inside of the wheelwells and there is enough room at the outside of the wheelwells...
Well actually the wheel rub is on the forward wall of the inside face of the outside wall of the wheel wells (say that fast ten times!)...so spacing outward would make things worse. And the tire guys tried to find a negative-off-set 14" rim (take it in 1/2") but could not locate one for our bolt pattern ,( THAT would do two things, add some bling and take care of the rub.

This is a shot of the curb side well during my initial repair project, i've patched the area and next i gave two coats of grey epoxy. The current rub is in same area, just smaller impact zone.



Honestly, my suggestion to PL would be to ditch the cute retro look on the well and just hack the mold and go Casita style!

Thom
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Old 08-18-2013, 08:18 AM   #254
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im pretty certain they farm out the trailers... i have a sticker on mine that says it was made in dec 2011 but the parkliner wasnt completed till feb 2012.
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Old 08-18-2013, 08:42 AM   #255
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Originally Posted by accrete View Post
Well actually the wheel rub is on the forward wall of the inside face of the outside wall of the wheel wells (say that fast ten times!)...so spacing outward would make things worse. And the tire guys tried to find a negative-off-set 14" rim (take it in 1/2") but could not locate one for our bolt pattern
Thom
Some of the spacers can convert one bolt pattern to another if that is the limiting factor. If the tire guys can't find a 1/2" negative offset maybe they could find a 1.5" negative offset and you could use a 1" spacer (positive offset) to get the required 1/2" negative offset.
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Old 08-18-2013, 09:02 AM   #256
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Originally Posted by Andy B View Post
.......... If the tire guys can't find a 1/2" negative offset maybe they could find a 1.5" negative offset and you could use a 1" spacer (positive offset) to get the required 1/2" negative offset.
Right, I like simple solutions, too.
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Old 08-18-2013, 11:11 AM   #257
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Are there any brand new Parkliner owners watching this thread that can report back the current status? I would assume they are still rolling new units out the door so I am curious of all of the new ones still have the problem. If not, is it the same tires? Same axle?

Have anyone with a unit on order received any feedback from Parkliner?
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Old 08-18-2013, 11:29 AM   #258
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Originally Posted by accrete View Post
I'm glad the PL's bare no family resemblance to Ms.Miller because the line during the last EggFest to see the inside would have been substantially longer than it already was


Well actually the wheel rub is on the forward wall of the inside face of the outside wall of the wheel wells (say that fast ten times!)...so spacing outward would make things worse. And the tire guys tried to find a negative-off-set 14" rim (take it in 1/2") but could not locate one for our bolt pattern ,( THAT would do two things, add some bling and take care of the rub.

This is a shot of the curb side well during my initial repair project, i've patched the area and next i gave two coats of grey epoxy. The current rub is in same area, just smaller impact zone.



Honestly, my suggestion to PL would be to ditch the cute retro look on the well and just hack the mold and go Casita style!

Thom
Curb side photo, ok. From that photo, it looks like there would be no rub if (1) the axle did not pivot up as high as it does, or (2) the axle were mounted a bit farther to the rear. Am I seeing that correctly?

PL is highly unlikely to want to change the mold if something else can be changed instead. Because the molds are very expensive to make, and once created they would want to get their money's worth out of the investment.

I think they could more readily change their frame and axle attachment design. If they weld in a cross member where the axle currently is welded in, then bolt the axle to that (preferable to welding it), the wheels would sit below the wells. It would add a couple inches of height to the PL and perhaps 10 or 20 lbs. Of course, other frame/axle modifications have been mentioned that would accomplish the same thing, too. My point is that if they would just step back from their self-imposed construction schedule treadmill and take time to examine and rectify this problem, they could announce to all that they have fixed the problem (with a minimum of fuss and expense!) and happily resume production with full customer confidence.

Business consultants charge big bucks for this type of advice. Why is my advice still free? Hmmmm, maybe I should start charging....
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Old 08-18-2013, 02:35 PM   #259
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Andy & Tom, thx for the idea...i will ask the tire boyz if that is possible on my setup.


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Curb side photo, ok. From that photo, it looks like there would be no rub if (1) the axle did not pivot up as high as it does, or (2) the axle were mounted a bit farther to the rear. Am I seeing that correctly?..
Mike, that is my take on the situation also. And the more loaded (up to a point) the further away from the forward rub area. This is a 3500lb cap axle with an at-the-scales loaded weight of 2400lbs. Maybe if i install that marble flooring my wife has been eyeing that would take care of the rub

Thom
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Old 08-18-2013, 03:46 PM   #260
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Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
I thought she may have been the welder these guys were complaining about
Good one, Jim!

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Old 08-18-2013, 04:01 PM   #261
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Originally Posted by Birmingham1 View Post
I measured from the rear of the frame to the edge of the bracket for the axle. I thought it might just be a difference in the fiberglass in the wells, but no, it is actually that the axle is on at an angle.
You have to measure from the center of the ball to the end of the spindle. The rear frame rails don't mean anything.
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Old 08-18-2013, 04:07 PM   #262
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Originally Posted by Andy B View Post
Some of the spacers can convert one bolt pattern to another if that is the limiting factor. If the tire guys can't find a 1/2" negative offset maybe they could find a 1.5" negative offset and you could use a 1" spacer (positive offset) to get the required 1/2" negative offset.
Adapters bolt on like a wheel, and have studs sticking out of them like a hub. Wheels with 35 mm to 50 mm offset are very common on modern vehicles, so while not simple (as Tom already noted), this can work.

My 1979 Boler still has its original wheels, which are 14" with 1/2" offset. This wheel is still available from Dexstar (the brand of wheel shown in an earlier post, and formerly made by Dexter), as shown in their catalog:
Part No. 017-114-xx
Rim Size 14x5.5JJ
Bolt Circle 5-4.5
Pilot Dia. 2.62
Stud Size 1/2 - 20 60*
Offset .50 In
Capacity & PSI 1865@50 psi
I assume the "xx" is a colour code.

If a wheel change to move the tire a bit inward is the fix, the wheel should be available which will work without an adapter. That still seems like a finicky tweak to cover up a design with marginal clearance, and as we have discovered in this discussion, there are more significant issues with axle installation in at least some of these trailers.
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Old 08-18-2013, 04:09 PM   #263
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Originally Posted by Jared J View Post
You have to measure from the center of the ball to the end of the spindle. The rear frame rails don't mean anything.
True. Of course, I would have to wonder about someone who builds a frame 1/2" out of square, even if they mount the axle on it square to the coupler.
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Old 08-18-2013, 05:06 PM   #264
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A very interesting 4 to 5 month thread. More interesting is Parkliner's response.
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Old 08-18-2013, 05:08 PM   #265
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True. Of course, I would have to wonder about someone who builds a frame 1/2" out of square, even if they mount the axle on it square to the coupler.
Frame could still be "square", just a longer frame rail on one side. I guaranteed my old scamp is a little off. I had a hell of a time trying to locate my new axle, nothing came to the same point. I finally leveled it, dropped a plumb bob from the kingpin, and went from there.
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Old 08-18-2013, 05:10 PM   #266
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A very interesting 4 to 5 month thread. More interesting is Parkliner's response.
"or lack there of"
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